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Exploding rear slider window

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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 08:34 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by arent_we_sarcastic
Scary. Something occurs to me though. Isn't the rear defroster on some kind of timer? Haven't checked but don't they usually turn off after a certain period of time?
Yes. They go off after a certain period of time. My defroster went out and finally got the dealer to replace the back window. I don't think this is just a 2010 issue.
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 01:15 PM
  #22  
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Default 2010 Rear Window Issue

Yes the 2010 F150 with power sliding rear window with defrost will over heat and shatter. The electric defrost is on a 40 amp circuit. I believe the design has a problem that causes the passenger side rear glass to be isolated in the circuit resulting in it superheating and then shattering the glass.

The fix involves replacement of the entire window unit. The replacement part for just the glass for the original glass unit is not available. I had the entire unit replaced at a cost of over $1,100.

After some patience on my part I was finally able to convince Ford that they should replace the entire window unit under my extended warranty. I paid the $100 deductible.

My advice is to start at the top on any company that you are dissatisfied with your customer service experience. Be polite and stick to the facts. Rhetoric and threats will get you no where. In this case I went to Alan Mulally and he responded professional. He listened and had had my issue resolved.

I have a new respect for Ford Motor Company. It is a much better company since the last member of the Ford family step down from the top management job,

Mike G - Anchorage, AK
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 01:42 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Threegrapplers
It is a much better company since the last member of the Ford family step down from the top management job,

Mike G - Anchorage, AK
When did this happen?
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 09:17 PM
  #24  
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After reading this whole thread and others like it, I decided to pull the fuse for the rear window. It kinda sucks because having a rear defrost is part of the reason I bought the truck. I was thinking, would putting a smaller fuse in place of the 40 amp prevent this from happening or does it need the full 40 amps just to work?
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 09:49 PM
  #25  
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Does any one know for sure what year they upgraded the rear window. Now I'm nervous to use mine cause I have a new born and a two year old back there. Does the window just spider crack or does it actually blow apart? Would hate for the new born in the rearward facing seat to get a face full of glass.
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 10:00 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by mastertinner
Does any one know for sure what year they upgraded the rear window. Now I'm nervous to use mine cause I have a new born and a two year old back there. Does the window just spider crack or does it actually blow apart? Would hate for the new born in the rearward facing seat to get a face full of glass.
The passenger side rear glass completely shatters, or spiders! Some have caught fire! Seems like its mostly 2011 and previous yrs...
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 10:33 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mastertinner
Does any one know for sure what year they upgraded the rear window. Now I'm nervous to use mine cause I have a new born and a two year old back there. Does the window just spider crack or does it actually blow apart? Would hate for the new born in the rearward facing seat to get a face full of glass.
Turn on your rear defrost and check the lower left side glass that slides for excessive heat. 10 to 15 minutes.

Last edited by MT-Ford; Dec 8, 2013 at 10:43 PM.
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 10:52 PM
  #28  
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Default October 2013

Originally Posted by MT-Ford
When did this happen?
October 2013.
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 11:57 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Threegrapplers
October 2013.
Thanks, I've been working for the last few weeks to get the rear window replaced on my 2010. I finally got it replaced today. Maybe things are changing like you said.
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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 12:03 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by boy_welder2000
After reading this whole thread and others like it, I decided to pull the fuse for the rear window. It kinda sucks because having a rear defrost is part of the reason I bought the truck. I was thinking, would putting a smaller fuse in place of the 40 amp prevent this from happening or does it need the full 40 amps just to work?
That is actually a smart idea. You can always try smaller fuses and check what the lowest you can get before the fuse burn out on a normal operation. But it seems like glass quality issue rather than electric issue. Idk
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