So I figured I would put this in here. I won't be done with everything for about a month, but at least my progress will be in here.

Here is the plan and what I am using:
I will be going active 2 way up front and trying out rear fill since my DSP offers the correct stuff for this.

Factory HU programmed to 4v variable out via forscan
Tweeters: Stereo Integrity m25 in Valicar Stuttgart pods
Mids: Stereo Integrity tm65 mkiii with install bay fast rings (These are in transit to me. Currently I have the tm 65's mki's so I am looking forward to the swap once they get delivered)
Sub: JL 10" TW3 in their truck wedge box
Rears: SB Acoustic SB17MFC35-4 (still need an amp for this but will get one sometime in the future)
Amp: Alpine PDR-V75 (wanting to swap this out to a pdx-v9 or jl hd 900/5 and another 4 channel maybe pdx-F6)
DSP: Helix dsp.2

I have ordered Resonix CLD tiles and CCF to cover the entire truck. I also have 120 sq ft of MLV to cover the truck. The roof will get Ballistic SSQLT and CLD.
I have 40 CLD squares and 10 rectangles. I also have 3 yards of 10mm CCF (for doors) and 5 yards of 5mm CCF (for floor and rear wall).

So far I have some stuff installed but not everything. I will be doing all the rest over the next month.

Here is what I have done so far.

I used the for-11ck harness to connect to the ACM and run wire back to my DSP. I choose to do low level RCA runs.




I then had the Sony system and didn't have the correct connector for it so I decided to cut and solder the wires together. It was Saturday and I needed the truck on Sunday. FYI this fully deleted the Sony system. My sony amp, speakers, and sub sit in my garage now.



This is just a final wrap of electrical tape to over-protect the wires.




I used 1/2" mdf to make an amp rack for now and covered it with rubberized bed liner stuff. I might change this out to ABS, but I don't have a need to right now.




Once it was installed, those notches that I made had a purpose. They fit nicely in that little accessory hook at the bottom. I then used self tappers on the top to hold it in place. This picture I actually messed up and had to take it back out to run the window motor wire under the rack. You will also notice on my screws I use 1/4" spacers to give the bottom of the dsp and amp some air to breathe under them as well.

 

This is all of the stuff hooked up to the amp rack. I need to go back and clean everything up, but that will wait until I tear all of the interior out to deaden the truck. I was hoping to not cut the carpet but actually run the screws threw it, but it didn't work so I cut it. The carpet cuts also looks a lot nicer as I did clean that up. You will also see my now not functioning rockford 360.3. Side note: If anyone wants it and is good at electrical stuff, it can be yours for the price of shipping. I took it apart and it looks too complicated for me to fix.




I made my own speaker baffles. I have now ordered a set from amazon made by car-speaker-adapters. I had to recess the screws or the speakers wouldn't sit flush.




They were installed and covered with some CCF.




The TM65 mki's. These will also be for sale soon if anyone is interested.


This was my original tweeters. Image Dynamics xs-28's with plumbers strap to hold them in place. Also going to be for sale soon.

 

The stereo integrity m25's will be at a lot nicer angle with the pods. I purchased the optional swivel mounts to really get the best angle possible.


First I removed the factory grill





Then I found washers that were quite nearly the perfect size. One on the outside




One on the inside. These will be sandwiched together to hold the pods in place. I tested this and it seems PLENTY sturdy enough. I guess time will tell though.





I didn't want to leave the washers silver so I found the closest matching paint to the a-pillars.




Turned out better than expected!




It is a little bit off, but the pod will cover up most of that anyway.





Here are the pods with the m25's in them already.





This is what it will look like once it is mounted in the truck.

 

Those pods are nice! Excellent execution of modifying the oem pillars!

 

They are definitely nicer and smaller than I thought they would be. If I go 3way, I will be getting the m3 version.
I was concerned about integrating them, but I think this will look really nice and kind of factory when done and put the tweeters way more on axis.

 

Those m3's are work of it. Beautiful to look at.

 

Yup. Part of me wants my 2 way setup to need the m3 and to get more custom pods that show off the beauty. The other part doesn't want me to need them because it is quite a bit of extra $$$ and time. I would then need a pro version of the helix dsp...unless I don't/can't get rear fill properly implemented then I'd be fine with a dsp.2.

 

Got one of the pods installed for the drivers side. I ended up not using the swivel mounts. As you can see in the picture, they just stuck out a little farther than I would like. I think they would be great if I was going to drill a hole in my a-pillar to mount them. They hang out a little more than I would have liked at this location. I will see if I like them over the next few days. If not, I will drill a hole in my a-pillar. I will only be out about $6 in cost of the washers and paint. I might end up bringing them in another about 1/8" by removing one of the other pieces that come with he pods. I will probably test fit that tomorrow and see. My concern with that would then be making sure the threaded rod doesn't twist out of the pod. Right now that piece is acting like a lock nut on the pod.


I used some clear jb weld on some plumbers strap and epoxied it to the washer. The strap was then attached to the original mounting points for some added support. Figured it can't hurt. I also put a washer on top of that to help hold it in place. The holes on the strap were not quite big enough to fit the threaded rod through. I tried enlarging the holes but plumbers strap is not fun to try and drill through so I gave up and went the jb weld route.




This was the swivel mount without pod attached.






Pod with swivel mount in the truck. I probably would have kept it if it wouldn't have covered up my sct-x4. I like using it to monitor engine temp and boost when pulling my trailer so covering it is not going to happen. You can also see in this picture that I use XT-30 quick disconnects on my speakers (the little orange/yellow thing on the speaker wire).





This is without the swivel mounts and just the straight mount. From driver seat, you can clearly see the screen of the sct-x4.

 

I know you wanted to preserve the x4 mount but the axis of your tweeter is going to make your stage very narrow. If you also eliminate the swivel mount on the other tweeter, your focal point for your tweeters is going to be behind the drivers seat. You will have to measure in your environment to find out the definitive effect. But that's the reason most people place their speakers on axis at a central focal point in front of the listener instead of aiming the speaker directly at them. But in your case, it will be easy to change after the fact.

 

Ya, I don't know how I feel about the mounting right now but also didn't like the swivel mount in that same spot. If it doesn't sound good or if I need to go back to the swivel mounts, I will drill a hole in the a pillar or dash and mount them closer to the windshield in the corner.

It isn't a huge deal to me if I end up going that route. But if I don't have to cut any new holes, then, I don't have to cut any holes