My 2016 5.0 scab FX4 w/a 2.25" ready lift level is....

24.5" front
24.75" rear.

I have a soft tri fold cover and thick rubber bed mat.


Tires are 275/70/18 BFG All Terrain TA's

 

I have a Lomax trifold and a cargo box with about 150 pounds of gear in the front of my bed with the measurements I gave.

I used a 2 inch Autospring kit up front and an add a leaf in the rear. Gave me exactly an inch of rake. Had 400 pounds of asphalt patch in the bed last week and truck was level, no sag in the rear. Tires are 305/55 20 Yokohama MT.

 

My 2016 5.0 scab FX2 w/2.5" lift to level. Swapped out 18" factory chrome wheels for F150 18" Sport wheels. Planned on Falken Wildpeak AT/3s, but tough to find and $$$ more than I wanted to spend. Put on Discount Tire store brand Pathfinder ATs, LT275/70/R18 125S E1. Very pleased with the look of the tire, not too aggressive, but just enough. Very quiet tire on the highway.

Before:

Lifted 2.5" in Front before upgrading tires and rims.

After:

Lifted 2.5" w/Pathfinder 275/70/R18 (Discount Tire brand) F150 Sport Rims

 

I have a 2017 SCREW that I installed Bilstein 6112's (@ 2" setting) in the front and 5100's in the rear and upsized my tires on stock wheels to 285/70R18's. I recently loaded up the truck for a beach trip (to the brim with food, coolers, luggage, etc.) and noticed a decent amount of sag/ squat. Has anyone installed an add-a-leaf on a similar level? I'd like to stiffen the rear up to avoid the squat, but do not want to compromise the ride quality or inadvertently add rake to my level.

I have come across the Timbren SES system in my search as well . Anyone have any experience with this? I do not tow often, so this might not fit my needs. It also seems like it would really limit suspension travel off-road.

 

If you're dead level now, anything you load up the bed with, will cause squat, even stiffer springs or airbags will cause it to squat, just to a lesser degree. You need some rake to compensate for a load if you don't want to squat under loaded circumstances from a dead level setup.

 

I’m looking at implementing the exact same setup on my ‘17 SCREW and considering whether to put a tad bigger block in or doing the AAL and maybe seeing if I can find a 1” block to replace the 1.25”

I’ve used the Timbren system on my Suburban and I can say that they are money well spent. I will say though that the Suburban has coils in the back, so there’s not a lot you can do to stiffen it, I have had it loaded in the back while simultaneously pulling a fully loaded trailer of water and I actually like the ride better with the Timbrens sitting on the axle than when they weren’t.

However, leaf springs are a little different. AAL will add about 1.5” once it’s settled. So maybe you can find a smaller block or just take out your block completely. AAL will give you a little stiffer ride and get rid of the body roll. I wouldn’t think it to be too harsh though, especially with 5100’s.

 

Should receive my Eibach 2.0 coilover stage 1 kit in the next few days.

https://www.stage3motorsports.com/15...1-package.html

will post pics soon, looking to go for a clean level with 285/65/20 k02s

 

I don't recall these being on the market a couple of years ago when I did my Bilsteins. I might've ponied up the extra for the Eibach brand, as I've had Eibachs on basically every performance car I've owned, so I trust them.

 

Well then, maybe you'd answer this for me. Are Eibach struts steel like Bilstein, or are they aluminum.? I emailed Eibach awhile ago, and all they'd tell me were the bodies were made of "proprietary" material. Since that, Eibach won't even be a blip on my radar.

 

I honestly have no idea.... last time I put some on was ages ago when I was allowed to have a "toy" car :P Is aluminum bad? Many people are upset that the Bilsteins are steel and in certain areas can be prone to rust. I haven't noticed it in Texas, but we don't salt our roads.