IWE, front diff, something else?
Glad to hear.
Depends on the dealer. The dealer I went to were right on my driver's side being bad and the bearing still being good. This was back at the end of June. No issues. It's amazing that dealers can be so different when they have the "same" training. Then again, a lot depends on the person doing the work.
Depends on the dealer. The dealer I went to were right on my driver's side being bad and the bearing still being good. This was back at the end of June. No issues. It's amazing that dealers can be so different when they have the "same" training. Then again, a lot depends on the person doing the work.
Glad to hear.
Depends on the dealer. The dealer I went to were right on my driver's side being bad and the bearing still being good. This was back at the end of June. No issues. It's amazing that dealers can be so different when they have the "same" training. Then again, a lot depends on the person doing the work.
Depends on the dealer. The dealer I went to were right on my driver's side being bad and the bearing still being good. This was back at the end of June. No issues. It's amazing that dealers can be so different when they have the "same" training. Then again, a lot depends on the person doing the work.
Riddle me this: below 38 degrees the noise is almost gone, but above 40, very noticeable.
Dropping mine off at the dealer tonight. What concerns me is the air temp wont be above 40 all week.
My guess it has something to do with the plastic flapper inside the check valve. It becomes stiffer as it gets colder and it warps some and thus can't seal correctly. Once it because colder it straightens out and then can seal again. My theory anyway.
all good since i picked it up. Quiet no noises at all now. have driven couple hundred miles on it as well. hope it stays that way!
Didn't read rest of thread but had this same issue last spring. Was fine in the winter, but as it warmed/humidity increased, the light vibration would get worse, specifically when braking at low speeds or turning at low speeds.
You can do a quick check to make sure your vacuum lines are okay. Simply locate them behind the front hubs with your engine on. Put into 2H and pull the hose off both hubs, checking with your finger for negative pressure. If both have the same negative, then it is likely the IWE hub which needs to be replaced. I took mine into Ford and just said I want this hub replaced. Don't diagnose it there and waste your money. Typically what happens is that these IWE hubs can get a bit of water in them or moisture over the years from either the vacuum line or otherwise. When it freezes, usually you will not have this droning noise/feeling (hence why it is less noticeable in the winter). Over time the gasket can wear away and there goes your vacuum AT the hub. This will cause the plastic hub to rub and eventually erode the teeth which lock the hub when in 4A/4H/L. Or it may be the case that you wore the teeth in the hub while switching during driving or slipping on snow and did not shift while idle. This can also cause these hubs to wear prematurely and draw air in causing the vacuum to not seal.
Cost for dealer to fix was like $180 I think. About half hour/hour of labor. Part was like $90. Have them replace the solenoid for like $10 as well while you are there. These are often cheap and can fail as well.
You can do a quick check to make sure your vacuum lines are okay. Simply locate them behind the front hubs with your engine on. Put into 2H and pull the hose off both hubs, checking with your finger for negative pressure. If both have the same negative, then it is likely the IWE hub which needs to be replaced. I took mine into Ford and just said I want this hub replaced. Don't diagnose it there and waste your money. Typically what happens is that these IWE hubs can get a bit of water in them or moisture over the years from either the vacuum line or otherwise. When it freezes, usually you will not have this droning noise/feeling (hence why it is less noticeable in the winter). Over time the gasket can wear away and there goes your vacuum AT the hub. This will cause the plastic hub to rub and eventually erode the teeth which lock the hub when in 4A/4H/L. Or it may be the case that you wore the teeth in the hub while switching during driving or slipping on snow and did not shift while idle. This can also cause these hubs to wear prematurely and draw air in causing the vacuum to not seal.
Cost for dealer to fix was like $180 I think. About half hour/hour of labor. Part was like $90. Have them replace the solenoid for like $10 as well while you are there. These are often cheap and can fail as well.
Surprise, surprise, the rear driveshaft assembly didn't fix anything! 
Based on comments here, I wonder if dirt and or water could have been sucked up through the now replaced IWE and gunked up the check valve and solenoid. I've asked them 3 times to check both and they haven't. Now that they have replaced the $1k assembly, maybe they will try the $10 part!

Based on comments here, I wonder if dirt and or water could have been sucked up through the now replaced IWE and gunked up the check valve and solenoid. I've asked them 3 times to check both and they haven't. Now that they have replaced the $1k assembly, maybe they will try the $10 part!
Last edited by White Elephant; Dec 4, 2019 at 05:39 PM.






