Go Pro IWE
#241
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What the checkvalve does is prevent manifold "pressure" from getting to the solenoid and down to the IWEs. You're right, you should always have "vacuum" to the solenoid, until you go into boost, or even accelerate without boost. The intake will lose it's vacuum and become pressurized.. The checkvalve then closes, maintaining vacuum thru the vacuum reservoir, [that black plastic box looking thing next to the solenoid].
Way back when, even with carbuerated, and naturally aspirated engines, a lot of us would hook up a vacuum gauge. The higher you could keep the vacuum, in other words a light foot, the better mpg you could get. It didn't take a lot to get vacuum down into zero range.
With a turbo like we have, the manifold is pressurized intentionally, and you won't have vacuum. That's why I mentioned I get 20psi plus boost, and the checkvalve prevents that from getting to the IWE system.
Way back when, even with carbuerated, and naturally aspirated engines, a lot of us would hook up a vacuum gauge. The higher you could keep the vacuum, in other words a light foot, the better mpg you could get. It didn't take a lot to get vacuum down into zero range.
With a turbo like we have, the manifold is pressurized intentionally, and you won't have vacuum. That's why I mentioned I get 20psi plus boost, and the checkvalve prevents that from getting to the IWE system.
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fordtrk (02-18-2019)
#242
Senior Member
I didn't realize it got pressure. I have only read about vacuum more and less. Thanks
I thought about switching the valve back but this way it will never suck anything in. If it does get enough pressure to blow through the solenoid and blow out the screw plugs it will just keep the hoses clear. lol I think it will hold tho.
I thought about switching the valve back but this way it will never suck anything in. If it does get enough pressure to blow through the solenoid and blow out the screw plugs it will just keep the hoses clear. lol I think it will hold tho.
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johnday in BFE (02-18-2019)
#243
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I didn't realize it got pressure. I have only read about vacuum more and less. Thanks
I thought about switching the valve back but this way it will never suck anything in. If it does get enough pressure to blow through the solenoid and blow out the screw plugs it will just keep the hoses clear. lol I think it will hold tho.
I thought about switching the valve back but this way it will never suck anything in. If it does get enough pressure to blow through the solenoid and blow out the screw plugs it will just keep the hoses clear. lol I think it will hold tho.
#244
Senior Member
Not knowing the vac turned to pressure thought I did with the valve
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johnday in BFE (02-18-2019)
#245
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Thread Starter
Does anyone know how or if any of the lines and wires that sit in the brackets by the spare tire and rear axle on the driver side rear with some going to the wheel itself could affect steering? I know a brake line could affect if the truck was feeling binded but can't figure out if steering is connected at all to any of those lines in a way? The reason I ask is because I noticed yesterday what looked like movement of all those lines and brackets by the person who installed my exhaust system. I confirmed this morning on another truck that the bracket originally sits right where my second tail pipe was installed and had to of been moved to install it there. Yesterday after discovering this and poking around and messing with those lines the truck felt like it was suppose to the day I got it when I drove it. I didn't realize I was still dragging before because I must be getting used to it but this was night a day with how easily it accelerated, how free the steering felt, not the slightest shuttering with acceleration either. I just need to figure out what's going on because nothing was visibly damaged or kinked just moved and hanging from a ziptie. But that is what I touched and messed with and magically the truck felt amazing.
The only reason I thought to check out the rear end of my truck is because the two times I have felt extremely binded or off was after the back tires had broken free(1 time testing 4x4 rears spun in rocks, the other time launching from a stop sign breaking tires loose) I feel like I am on to something but just need to figure out which line if any are causing the issue. If something is at a bad angle or pinched it could explain how different the truck is acting per any given drive as that bracket gets moved around after a drive most likely.
The only reason I thought to check out the rear end of my truck is because the two times I have felt extremely binded or off was after the back tires had broken free(1 time testing 4x4 rears spun in rocks, the other time launching from a stop sign breaking tires loose) I feel like I am on to something but just need to figure out which line if any are causing the issue. If something is at a bad angle or pinched it could explain how different the truck is acting per any given drive as that bracket gets moved around after a drive most likely.
#246
Senior Member
What about the e brake? I think it runs there. Maybe pulling on the cable causing the E brake to be on slightly. At least as far as the dragging or resistance. Not the steering
Last edited by fordtrk; 02-26-2019 at 08:23 AM.
#247
Senior Member
When I did my lift they gave me longer brackets for the emergency brake cable so it could drop down and not be pulled tight.
You wouldn't get an emergency brake light on the dash cause that switch is up on the pedal.
You wouldn't get an emergency brake light on the dash cause that switch is up on the pedal.
Last edited by fordtrk; 02-26-2019 at 08:21 AM.
#248
Senior Member
Thread Starter
That is interesting! Where exactly is that cable and would I be able to visual see that it is pulled to tight? And I am assuming the electronic parking brake/emergency brake is the same thing here?
#249
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Thread Starter
So I figured out an idiot proof test to this whole issue. I have no idea how this happens because I don’t understand the whole system yet but what I’ve figured out works 100%.
When I’m easy on the brakes like a normal person should be and whether simply slowing down or coming to a complete stop, when you accelerate after this the truck sputters, requires more gas pedal travel, and acts as if it lost half its power plus the transmission does weird things.
If I mash my brakes to slow down or come to a complete stop or even after I’ve already stopped/just got in the truck and just mashed the pedal down and now go to move again the truck requires hardly any gas and it’s accelerates like a dream, no feed back like I’m getting kicked in different wheels,all the power is there, it shifts perfect, and moves effortlessly.
This test has worked 100% every time. Even doing 60mph just easily braking and slowing down to 50mph and then trying to speed back up again the truck moves like complete crap. Push them hard from 60mph to 50mph and go to accelerate again and it’s absolutely perfect, downshifts correctly and everything is smooth. This even applies to being at a stop and waiting or coming out of park to drive. If my foot is only applying the pressure required to keep the truck still then it’s going to speed up horribly but if I simply mash the brake pedal in further when at a stop then the truck moves flawlessly on acceleration. There is no question that anyone would be able to tell this happens after I tell them to brake and accelerate two different ways.
What the heck could cause this? I’m mind boggled as to why if the brakes are hanging up that mashing them harder is clearing issue versus using them lightly. Could it be the fact that something like a kink or twist is not allowing fluid to easily come back out of the calipers unless there is more fluid from mashing the brakes that provides enough needed pressure to get past the hang up when it’s trying to return? Or could it be electrical and related to the pedals themselves not working correctly? Like if I’m not pushing the brake to a certain point it’s not registering a full release when I left off? I’m praying its not electrical but I’m also hoping this has something to do with the clicking coming from somewhere down by my feet, under the truck or down toward the engine compartment behind fire wall.
Not expecting anyone to tell me what’s definitively wrong here but just sharing what’s going on with any insight being a bonus.
When I’m easy on the brakes like a normal person should be and whether simply slowing down or coming to a complete stop, when you accelerate after this the truck sputters, requires more gas pedal travel, and acts as if it lost half its power plus the transmission does weird things.
If I mash my brakes to slow down or come to a complete stop or even after I’ve already stopped/just got in the truck and just mashed the pedal down and now go to move again the truck requires hardly any gas and it’s accelerates like a dream, no feed back like I’m getting kicked in different wheels,all the power is there, it shifts perfect, and moves effortlessly.
This test has worked 100% every time. Even doing 60mph just easily braking and slowing down to 50mph and then trying to speed back up again the truck moves like complete crap. Push them hard from 60mph to 50mph and go to accelerate again and it’s absolutely perfect, downshifts correctly and everything is smooth. This even applies to being at a stop and waiting or coming out of park to drive. If my foot is only applying the pressure required to keep the truck still then it’s going to speed up horribly but if I simply mash the brake pedal in further when at a stop then the truck moves flawlessly on acceleration. There is no question that anyone would be able to tell this happens after I tell them to brake and accelerate two different ways.
What the heck could cause this? I’m mind boggled as to why if the brakes are hanging up that mashing them harder is clearing issue versus using them lightly. Could it be the fact that something like a kink or twist is not allowing fluid to easily come back out of the calipers unless there is more fluid from mashing the brakes that provides enough needed pressure to get past the hang up when it’s trying to return? Or could it be electrical and related to the pedals themselves not working correctly? Like if I’m not pushing the brake to a certain point it’s not registering a full release when I left off? I’m praying its not electrical but I’m also hoping this has something to do with the clicking coming from somewhere down by my feet, under the truck or down toward the engine compartment behind fire wall.
Not expecting anyone to tell me what’s definitively wrong here but just sharing what’s going on with any insight being a bonus.
Last edited by Zack23434; 02-26-2019 at 08:06 PM.
#250
Senior Member
Thread Starter
This is the only part of the system I could find that aligns with the contradictory fact that hard braking is aleviating a possible trapped fluid issue but only if it’s trapped in the rears.
The proportioning valve modulates pressure to the rear brakes so that as weight is transferred to the front wheels under heavy braking loads and pressure on the system is increasing, less and less pressure is being applied to the rear brakes.
That sure seems like it could be an explanation for why hard braking would conversely alleviate a hang up.
When I brake hard enough pressure is lessened on the rear brakes by that valve doing its job, so if there is indeed a rear brake line issue that is blocking fluid escape after release then the proportioning valve could be the only thing letting it escape during a hard brake.
But during light braking when the valve doesn’t need to facilitate a release of pressure to the rears the fluid can’t escape on its own? Who knows but that’s interesting in how it aligns.
A rear brake issue also aligns with all the lines being moved for the additional tail pipe. The rears also align with the fact that I’ve gotten very binded up feeling twice when my back tires broke free. When they started spinning the traction control I’m guessing started sending fluid to provide pressure on the slipping wheels to get traction again, and with so much slipping a ton of pressure was probably built up and if not able to properly release would explain the feeling of an elephant in the bed of my truck afterwards.
The proportioning valve modulates pressure to the rear brakes so that as weight is transferred to the front wheels under heavy braking loads and pressure on the system is increasing, less and less pressure is being applied to the rear brakes.
That sure seems like it could be an explanation for why hard braking would conversely alleviate a hang up.
When I brake hard enough pressure is lessened on the rear brakes by that valve doing its job, so if there is indeed a rear brake line issue that is blocking fluid escape after release then the proportioning valve could be the only thing letting it escape during a hard brake.
But during light braking when the valve doesn’t need to facilitate a release of pressure to the rears the fluid can’t escape on its own? Who knows but that’s interesting in how it aligns.
A rear brake issue also aligns with all the lines being moved for the additional tail pipe. The rears also align with the fact that I’ve gotten very binded up feeling twice when my back tires broke free. When they started spinning the traction control I’m guessing started sending fluid to provide pressure on the slipping wheels to get traction again, and with so much slipping a ton of pressure was probably built up and if not able to properly release would explain the feeling of an elephant in the bed of my truck afterwards.