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Zack have you had your brakes inspected? Maybe you would find that the rears have more wear on them as compared to the fronts. I suspect you can measure the thickness of the pads and then measure them again a month or so later. A good brake mechanic should be able to tell if there is more wear on the rears than there should be. I suspect you don't want to wait that long for an answer though.
I'm not sure how the electronic parking brake works but try your testing and slow down easily to come to a stop and push the parking brake and release. See if it starts out free like if you mash them.
Then do your testing with traction control off. Maybe this will narrow it down. The more I think about it, it sounds like traction control. That would line up with tires breaking loose and changing the feel.
the traction control works by applying brake pressure to the wheels. I would think it has something to do with that system. I wonder if there is a reset or relearn procedure for that system. Good luck!
I'm not sure how the electronic parking brake works but try your testing and slow down easily to come to a stop and push the parking brake and release. See if it starts out free like if you mash them.
Then do your testing with traction control off. Maybe this will narrow it down. The more I think about it, it sounds like traction control. That would line up with tires breaking loose and changing the feel.
the traction control works by applying brake pressure to the wheels. I would think it has something to do with that system. I wonder if there is a reset or relearn procedure for that system. Good luck!
Thanks! The reason I related traction control was for the reason you mentioned. If it kicked in while tires broke loose and then the fluid was not being able to retreat aftwards then I’d have that dragging feeling. But first thing I need to do is straighten out the mess from the exhaust install to see if that does anything first.
So the first picture is how this should look stock. The next two are my truck now. It’s not like it’s super terrible or mangled but the hoses do have a turn in them where they attach to that top metal bracket. Also I wonder what happened for him to brake the end of the top black bracket/separator. It’s not like he was pulling the lines out of those individual resting places which I could see would potentially brake the clips as you pulled them apart. But he was simply moving everything to the side so it can’t touch the new pipe. But you can’t really tell in the picture but I’m missing two line holding spots on the right side of that top black peice so who knows what happen there. Got to figure out how to get everything to hang straight down again but not lay on the pipe as they are already fairly close. I’m guessing I could wrap the pipe in that area with some type of shielding so that I could lay them all down again.
Zack, first thing I'd do is get rid of the zipties/tywraps, whatever you want to call them. The plastic they're made of are harder than the rubber they're trying to secure. Have one eventually rub thru, and you'll be going for a ride you don't want. They could have at least used some foam type shielding between each hose, and between each hose and tywrap. Damn!
I'm leaning toward your traction control stuff being the problem. I can't see where anything is kinked. TBH, I don't know what to tell you, but am interested very much in what you find out.
Zack, first thing I'd do is get rid of the zipties/tywraps, whatever you want to call them. The plastic they're made of are harder than the rubber they're trying to secure. Have one eventually rub thru, and you'll be going for a ride you don't want. They could have at least used some foam type shielding between each hose, and between each hose and tywrap. Damn!
I'm leaning toward your traction control stuff being the problem. I can't see where anything is kinked. TBH, I don't know what to tell you, but am interested very much in what you find out.
Good point about the zip ties as I was thinking of still using some to reposition stuff until you said that. Would a simple piece of electrical tape suffice you think around those hoses that would touch the zip ties? Also I just looked under a 2015 today with a large lift and 50k plus miles that also has dual exhaust exits and they never moved anything. The vent tube for the rear diff is resting right on the pipe and it looks completely fine. Still thinking the simple thing to do is just remove the zips and wrap the pipe for precaution so I can just let them hang naturally as they were again.
This is what I'd use, pretty cheap. Just cut it as needed. Electrical tape is actually pretty flimsy for that application. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...5812/204760811
Agree with just getting the lines to hang the way they're supposed to.
Just as a side note. I've been following this thread, and based on what I had learned, I thought it would be prudent to order a new check valve just in case.
I ordered it yesterday and got it today. I was explaining what a check valve does to the wife by showing her (Amazon guy was still down the street) and my check valve works when it wants to.
I can get it to work most of the time, but if you cycle it, every once in a while, it will stop working. This was a stock check valve that was holding vacuum. I haven't driven the truck since yesterday and there was still vacuum on the line when I pulled it.
I just thought it might be an interesting observation. That check valve should be cycled fairly regularly (although mostly different levels of vacuum I would think), so you'd want it to be consistent for sure.
Just as a side note. I've been following this thread, and based on what I had learned, I thought it would be prudent to order a new check valve just in case.
I ordered it yesterday and got it today. I was explaining what a check valve does to the wife by showing her (Amazon guy was still down the street) and my check valve works when it wants to.
I can get it to work most of the time, but if you cycle it, every once in a while, it will stop working. This was a stock check valve that was holding vacuum. I haven't driven the truck since yesterday and there was still vacuum on the line when I pulled it.
I just thought it might be an interesting observation. That check valve should be cycled fairly regularly (although mostly different levels of vacuum I would think), so you'd want it to be consistent for sure.
Did you get the "blue" one?. Don't know what engine or truck you have, but if you have an Eco, everytime you go in boost the checkvalve should cycle closed. If a 5.0 or 3.3, it will work when accelerating and loses vacuum. The vacuum you heard releasing was coming from the reservoir, that coffin shaped box the solenoid is clipped to.
Good thought to carry a spare valve.
Did you get the "blue" one?. Don't know what engine or truck you have, but if you have an Eco, everytime you go in boost the checkvalve should cycle closed. If a 5.0 or 3.3, it will work when accelerating and loses vacuum. The vacuum you heard releasing was coming from the reservoir, that coffin shaped box the solenoid is clipped to.
Good thought to carry a spare valve.
I have a 3.5 eco and I got the one that is linked in this thread a bunch of times. It is black and white. Sometimes my stock one will barely work too. It let's a little air past. I'm going to order another one to keep in the glove box. Good 10 dollar insurance policy.
02-26-2019, 09:46 PM
