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Old 01-29-2019, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Jhous3s
Correct. 4A transfer case?

Mine being an XLT, my transfer case doesnt have the clutch packs. My transfer case disconnects entirely, hubs disconnect entirely, therefore stationary axles.

Only thing that makes sense for rotating shafts while in 2WD while disconnected.
That makes perfect sense why two trucks could be that different if everything was working right. Yes mine has the 4A transfer case.
Old 01-29-2019, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Zack23434
If someone removed my cv shaft from the back of the wheel hub itself without unbolting and taking the iwe off with it as one peice(per service procedure) and then reinstalling the shaft into the hub and into the actuator cause an issue?
An issue possibly where iwe is simply providing enough pressure on the cv or hub where it can turn it some because of that pressure? Figured you might know better since it sounds like you’ve replaced a few.
Does it actually matter whether or not you put vacuum on the iwe before screwing down the spindle nut on the front axles? I can confirm they did not do this.

So I'm thinking that was the reason for my first 2 failures. When I did my level kit a while back, I didn't unbolt anything other than the axle nut. When I was done, I just jammed the axle back in and tightened the nut. That more than likely destroyed my 2 Factory hub actuators.

The replacements I purchased,1 OE, and 1 NON OE, were installed as a single unit with a vacuum pump.

The 3rd one I'm going to say it failed due to it being a NON OE replacement that failed on the drivers side. Passenger side has been fine.

I recently took them out again to install new coil overs and did it using a vacuum pump and installing them as one piece. They've been fine since.

The process I do is add vacuum to the actuator, slip it onto the axle, slide the axle into the hub making sure the actuator stays put and keeps vacuum, pull the axle through the hub while tightening the nut, install actuator to the spindle, release vacuum and check that it locks. Then I will lock and unlock the actuator with my vacuum pump to make sure its working properly.

Last edited by Jhous3s; 01-29-2019 at 10:33 PM.
Old 01-29-2019, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Jhous3s
So I'm thinking that was the reason for my first 2 failures. When I did my level kit a while back, I didn't unbolt anything other than the axle nut. When I was done, I just jammed the axle back in and tightened the nut. That more than likely destroyed my 2 Factory hub actuators.

The replacements I purchased,1 OE, and 1 NON OE, were installed as a single unit with a vacuum pump.

The 3rd one I'm going to say it failed due to it being a NON OE replacement that failed on the drivers side. Passenger side has been fine.

I recently took them out again to install new coil overs and did it using a vacuum pump and installing them as one piece. They've been fine since.

The process I do is add vacuum to the actuator, slip it onto the axle, slide the axle into the hub making sure the actuator stays put and keeps vacuum, pull the axle through the hub while tightening the nut, install actuator to the spindle, release vacuum and check that it locks. Then I will lock and unlock the actuator with my vacuum pump to make sure its working properly.
Interesting! Thanks for that I will be sure that’s how it’s done from here out. But in the end my test with the truck on in park, tires on the ground, and turning the front drive shaft freely with the half shafts should confirm the IWEs are working properly and hubs are unlocked right? I have noticed the shaft starts off easy to turn but begins to get tighter as I keep turning. Not ever enough to stop me from turning it but for sure some added resistance after a few turns. The same thing happens when I start to reverse my turning. It gets easy again and then more resistance as I keep going. I figured that was normal and didn’t want to over think anything but figured I’d bring it up just Incase.
Old 01-29-2019, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Zack23434

Interesting! Thanks for that I will be sure that’s how it’s done from here out. But in the end my test with the truck on in park, tires on the ground, and turning the front drive shaft freely with the half shafts should confirm the IWEs are working properly and hubs are unlocked right? I have noticed the shaft starts off easy to turn but begins to get tighter as I keep turning. Not ever enough to stop me from turning it but for sure some added resistance after a few turns. The same thing happens when I start to reverse my turning. It gets easy again and then more resistance as I keep going. I figured that was normal and didn’t want to over think anything but figured I’d bring it up just Incase.
Yeah it sounds right. Doing the test at the wheel will eliminate any transfer case drag. At the wheel, spinning the tire should NOT spin the axle. I still believe there shouldn’t be any drag at the IWE. There could be drag coming from the T-Case while driving like we discovered earlier but there shouldn’t be any at the hub.

Last edited by Jhous3s; 01-29-2019 at 11:10 PM.
Old 01-29-2019, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Jhous3s

Yeah it sounds right. Doing the test at the wheel will eliminate any transfer case drag. At the wheel, spinning the tire should NOT spin the axle. I still believe there shouldn’t be any drag at the IWE. There could be drag coming from the T-Case while driving like we discovered earlier but there shouldn’t be any at the hub.
Yea there would be no way for me to tell if the drag is coming from the hubs or transfer case when doing that since I’m only holding and turning the front drive shaft so the resistance I feel could be from either end. It just gets a little tighter as I turn is all. But it shouldn’t be coming from the IWEs since they are turning free. I would think I would be able to see them turn when free or not be able to turn the front drive shaft at all if not free with no inbetweens.

Last edited by Zack23434; 01-29-2019 at 11:22 PM.
Old 01-29-2019, 11:28 PM
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So with the way you install your actuators do you know if it would it be practical and wise for me to correct installation by doing this procedure here just to be safe——back off the spindle nut unbolt the actuator and slide it back off the hub, apply vacuum to it and then reinstall back on the hub all without pulling the cv shaft out of the hub?
Old 01-29-2019, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Zack23434
So with the way you install your actuators do you know if it would it be practical and wise for me to correct installation by doing this procedure here just to be safe——back off the spindle nut unbolt the actuator and slide it back off the hub, apply vacuum to it and then reinstall back on the hub all without pulling the cv shaft out of the hub?
I wouldn’t even bother. If it was damaged due to install, you would damage them instantly. Mine took a dump 2 miles after they were damaged from install. If your not getting the typical IWE issues (Humming or Grinding) Id say they are fine.
Old 01-30-2019, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Jhous3s


I wouldn’t even bother. If it was damaged due to install, you would damage them instantly. Mine took a dump 2 miles after they were damaged from install. If your not getting the typical IWE issues (Humming or Grinding) Id say they are fine.
,
Agree, if they broke on installation, they're still broke now.
Didn't think of the Auto TC could be the difference in those halfshafts turning, makes perfect sense though. Confirms part of my suspicions. That was a good tutorial, BTW.
On reinstalling using vacuum, I know that's what Ford recommends, and a good precaution. I've changed out a set of coilovers, and put the stock coilovers back on, and installed Bilsteins on this truck, without pulling a vacuum, so, it can be done, you have to be sure you have the teeth lined up. Maybe I'm becoming a bit paranoid now, but next time, think I'll pull a vacuum.
Old 01-30-2019, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by johnday
,
Agree, if they broke on installation, they're still broke now.
Didn't think of the Auto TC could be the difference in those halfshafts turning, makes perfect sense though. Confirms part of my suspicions. That was a good tutorial, BTW.
On reinstalling using vacuum, I know that's what Ford recommends, and a good precaution. I've changed out a set of coilovers, and put the stock coilovers back on, and installed Bilsteins on this truck, without pulling a vacuum, so, it can be done, you have to be sure you have the teeth lined up. Maybe I'm becoming a bit paranoid now, but next time, think I'll pull a vacuum.
I know what you mean about being a bit paranoid now lol. Why does Ford not just have electronic locking hubs on the front like they do on the rears. Just eliminate the vacuum system! I know electrical problems still occur as obviously my hubs were locking and unlocking at random times due to a lack of electrical ground signal but it was so easy to figure that out and could not be denied as right or wrong compared to all these vacuum operated components and lines. It is fairly simple to find a vacuum issue but lord when you got things holding vacuum that could still be broken, check valves that intermittently work and so many possible small component damages due to any slight malfunction with that system, you would think an on/off electrical switch would be so much more efficient. Hell throw a sensor on there at least since there is a sensor for everything else. At least let the operator know right away if a vacuum variance is detected in the system to avoid damage to expensive wheel bearings and IWEs!
Old 01-30-2019, 09:37 AM
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I know of a total fix, manual hubs, and manual TC. Never had an once of problem with them. I guess a system like that is a bit too much thinking.
I had an idiot that borrowed my last Superdude, ruined a hub, ABS sensor, TC, and did something to the trans. All because he knew all about 4X4, but ignored the light on the dash, and all the scrubbing skidding on dry pavement. Piece of whitetrash garbage never said a word. Oh, I guess I really need to think about who the idiot was here.
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