Factory sub
Member
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 95
Likes: 50
Pretty sweet find here. When I first got my truck I was looking at adding a sub (like every other vehicle I own) but didn't want to lose the under seat storage and tear it apart like all the other vehicles.
So if I want to add a behind the rear seat option on a 2015 CC, will the Kicker Hideaway work?
Then I need the Motorola WPT1212 Connector to attach to the existing hidden connector in the truck.
Need to wire as shown previously in this thread.
Need Forscan and a OBDii dongle to turn it on in the truck.
Am I missing anything?
So if I want to add a behind the rear seat option on a 2015 CC, will the Kicker Hideaway work?
Then I need the Motorola WPT1212 Connector to attach to the existing hidden connector in the truck.
Need to wire as shown previously in this thread.
Need Forscan and a OBDii dongle to turn it on in the truck.
Am I missing anything?
This is the harness
Harness again
Sear folded up and locked. No interferance from the sub at all
There it is hiding behind the seat. Pic taken from under the rer seat with it folded up.
Back of rear seat folded down. Plenty of room for this little guy back there.
Member
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 95
Likes: 50
It will certainly shake the mirrors and you can feel it, but it's not overpowering. I think it rounds out the stock system nicely. It fills in the missing low end while blending in with the sound of the existing system instead of stepping all over it. I had thought about trying to squeeze in a 10" sealed enclosure and separate amp, but it was going to be really tight and probably would have involved cutting away some of the padding on the back of the cab so the sub would sit back far enough for the seat to fold up. That was back before I found this thread. Once I was sure that this was for real I decided to just see what a small powered sub would do. I'm glad I did. It's a 15-20 minute install from start to finish and no tearing your truck apart. I didn't even drill holes for the straps. I cut 2 slits in the back pad and 2 in the carpet just wide enough for the straps and fed them through those.
If you want huge booming bass you'll want something bigger though.
If you want huge booming bass you'll want something bigger though.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 13
Likes: 1
It will certainly shake the mirrors and you can feel it, but it's not overpowering. I think it rounds out the stock system nicely. It fills in the missing low end while blending in with the sound of the existing system instead of stepping all over it. I had thought about trying to squeeze in a 10" sealed enclosure and separate amp, but it was going to be really tight and probably would have involved cutting away some of the padding on the back of the cab so the sub would sit back far enough for the seat to fold up. That was back before I found this thread. Once I was sure that this was for real I decided to just see what a small powered sub would do. I'm glad I did. It's a 15-20 minute install from start to finish and no tearing your truck apart. I didn't even drill holes for the straps. I cut 2 slits in the back pad and 2 in the carpet just wide enough for the straps and fed them through those.
If you want huge booming bass you'll want something bigger though.
If you want huge booming bass you'll want something bigger though.
Member
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 95
Likes: 50
Top left black is positive. Orange red on the factory side
Top far right is ground or negative. Black violet on the factory side.
Bottom left is remote turn on. Brown on factory side.
Bottom 2nd to left is line level + violet on the factory side
Bottom 3rd to the right is line level - green on factory side
All other wires are not used. Tape them off.
Many thanks! Appreciate it
with the 1212 harness facing away and wires facing toward you it's this...top is where the clip is that secures it to the harness.
Top left black is positive. Orange red on the factory side
Top far right is ground or negative. Black violet on the factory side.
Bottom left is remote turn on. Brown on factory side.
Bottom 2nd to left is line level + violet on the factory side
Bottom 3rd to the right is line level - green on factory side
All other wires are not used. Tape them off.
Top left black is positive. Orange red on the factory side
Top far right is ground or negative. Black violet on the factory side.
Bottom left is remote turn on. Brown on factory side.
Bottom 2nd to left is line level + violet on the factory side
Bottom 3rd to the right is line level - green on factory side
All other wires are not used. Tape them off.
Just Another Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 7,111
Likes: 191
From: New England
Ok, I can vouch that these procedures work, and not just for a Kicker sub. I just used the procedures in this thread to install a Sound Ordnance B-8PT powered subwoofer, and it works great. No pulling wires through the firewall, no add-a-circuits, no splicing into factory speaker wires.
Bought the WPT-1212 pigtail on Amazon, which came with bare metal Motorcraft crimp connectors and heat-shrink tubing. I made up a harness to connect the WPT-1212 to the SO subwoofer, using the wiring instructions provided by NCRedneck in post #87. I used a Rockford Fosgate RFI2SW adapter to connect the "+" and "-" signal wires from the WPT-1212 pigtail to the SO's line level RCA inputs, and I wrapped the "shield" wire around the signal wires as far as it would go and taped everything up.
The factory harness has wires for only one amplifier/subwoofer input, but the SO B-8PT has two PCA inputs. I tried it using just one of the inputs and using both inputs and ended up soldering everything together using both inputs. But I don't think it makes a difference because the B-8PT is mono, despite having two inputs. If I was doing it over again I'd use a single RCA adapter since they are a little cheaper.
Oddly enough, the turn-on wire works for the SO subwoofer, even though the manual says it needs a 12V connection and I only measured 6 volts on that wire. I'm not complaining...
Set the ACM to "Auxiliary Subwoofer" and "Supercab 7 speaker with kicker audio" using Forscan and done!
Many thanks to you guys who figured this out for us. These procedures saved me hours of work and resulted in an OEM-like wiring job. Great work!
Bought the WPT-1212 pigtail on Amazon, which came with bare metal Motorcraft crimp connectors and heat-shrink tubing. I made up a harness to connect the WPT-1212 to the SO subwoofer, using the wiring instructions provided by NCRedneck in post #87. I used a Rockford Fosgate RFI2SW adapter to connect the "+" and "-" signal wires from the WPT-1212 pigtail to the SO's line level RCA inputs, and I wrapped the "shield" wire around the signal wires as far as it would go and taped everything up.
The factory harness has wires for only one amplifier/subwoofer input, but the SO B-8PT has two PCA inputs. I tried it using just one of the inputs and using both inputs and ended up soldering everything together using both inputs. But I don't think it makes a difference because the B-8PT is mono, despite having two inputs. If I was doing it over again I'd use a single RCA adapter since they are a little cheaper.
Oddly enough, the turn-on wire works for the SO subwoofer, even though the manual says it needs a 12V connection and I only measured 6 volts on that wire. I'm not complaining...
Set the ACM to "Auxiliary Subwoofer" and "Supercab 7 speaker with kicker audio" using Forscan and done!
Many thanks to you guys who figured this out for us. These procedures saved me hours of work and resulted in an OEM-like wiring job. Great work!
Last edited by Theocoog; Aug 26, 2016 at 07:53 PM.
Member
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 95
Likes: 50
Ok, I can vouch that these procedures work, and not just for a Kicker sub. I just used the procedures in this thread to install a Sound Ordnance B-8PT powered subwoofer, and it works great. No pulling wires through the firewall, no add-a-circuits, no splicing into factory speaker wires.
Bought the WPT-1212 pigtail on Amazon, which came with bare metal Motorcraft crimp connectors and heat-shrink tubing. I made up a harness to connect the WPT-1212 to the SO subwoofer, using the wiring instructions provided by NCRedneck in post #87. I used a Rockford Fosgate RFI2SW adapter to connect the "+" and "-" signal wires from the WPT-1212 pigtail to the SO's line level RCA inputs, and I wrapped the "shield" wire around the signal wires as far as it would go and taped everything up.
The factory harness has wires for only one amplifier/subwoofer input, but the SO B-8PT has two PCA inputs. I tried it using just one of the inputs and using both inputs and ended up soldering everything together using both inputs. But I don't think it makes a difference because the B-8PT is mono, despite having two inputs. If I was doing it over again I'd use a single RCA adapter since they are a little cheaper.
Oddly enough, the turn-on wire works for the SO subwoofer, even though the manual says it needs a 12V connection and I only measured 6 volts on that wire. I'm not complaining...
Set the ACM to "Auxiliary Subwoofer" and "Supercab 7 speaker with kicker audio" using Forscan and done!
Many thanks to you guys who figured this out for us. These procedures saved me hours of work and resulted in an OEM-like wiring job. Great work!
Bought the WPT-1212 pigtail on Amazon, which came with bare metal Motorcraft crimp connectors and heat-shrink tubing. I made up a harness to connect the WPT-1212 to the SO subwoofer, using the wiring instructions provided by NCRedneck in post #87. I used a Rockford Fosgate RFI2SW adapter to connect the "+" and "-" signal wires from the WPT-1212 pigtail to the SO's line level RCA inputs, and I wrapped the "shield" wire around the signal wires as far as it would go and taped everything up.
The factory harness has wires for only one amplifier/subwoofer input, but the SO B-8PT has two PCA inputs. I tried it using just one of the inputs and using both inputs and ended up soldering everything together using both inputs. But I don't think it makes a difference because the B-8PT is mono, despite having two inputs. If I was doing it over again I'd use a single RCA adapter since they are a little cheaper.
Oddly enough, the turn-on wire works for the SO subwoofer, even though the manual says it needs a 12V connection and I only measured 6 volts on that wire. I'm not complaining...
Set the ACM to "Auxiliary Subwoofer" and "Supercab 7 speaker with kicker audio" using Forscan and done!
Many thanks to you guys who figured this out for us. These procedures saved me hours of work and resulted in an OEM-like wiring job. Great work!