Factory sub
#721
with the 1212 harness facing away and wires facing toward you it's this...top is where the clip is that secures it to the harness.
Top left black is positive. Orange red on the factory side
Top far right is ground or negative. Black violet on the factory side.
Bottom left is remote turn on. Brown on factory side.
Bottom 2nd to left is line level + violet on the factory side
Bottom 3rd to the right is line level - green on factory side
All other wires are not used. Tape them off.
Top left black is positive. Orange red on the factory side
Top far right is ground or negative. Black violet on the factory side.
Bottom left is remote turn on. Brown on factory side.
Bottom 2nd to left is line level + violet on the factory side
Bottom 3rd to the right is line level - green on factory side
All other wires are not used. Tape them off.
Sump
#722
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Thanks for the reply. I actually saved this previous but decided it might not be correct as the colors do not match. The kicker harness has Red/Black/Grey/White/Blue wires. The WPT1212 has two black and a bunch of green wires. Not sure how to pair those together. Does that make more sense?
Sump
Sump
The blue wire on the kicker is the remote turn on, the WPT harness only provides 6v, not 12v. It WORKED on my small kicker amp, but may not on yours.
The grey and white wires are probably a stereo input source. The WPT has a single mono source. There is at least 1, if not more wires in the WPT harness you won't use. Hope that helps.
#723
Right.... The two BIG black wires on the WPT harness are positive and negative....
The blue wire on the kicker is the remote turn on, the WPT harness only provides 6v, not 12v. It WORKED on my small kicker amp, but may not on yours.
The grey and white wires are probably a stereo input source. The WPT has a single mono source. There is at least 1, if not more wires in the WPT harness you won't use. Hope that helps.
The blue wire on the kicker is the remote turn on, the WPT harness only provides 6v, not 12v. It WORKED on my small kicker amp, but may not on yours.
The grey and white wires are probably a stereo input source. The WPT has a single mono source. There is at least 1, if not more wires in the WPT harness you won't use. Hope that helps.
#724
Using PAC TR4
Is it possible to use the 12+ constant off the WPT1212 to power the amp and the TR 4? Then use the 6v to trigger the 12v remote on coming from the TR 4?
Also, is everyone with an after market amp and sub using the single line on the spreadsheet to enable factory sub, or the 2 variable line level pre amp outputs? (Non Sony 7 speaker stock system)
Thanks for all the good reading on here!!
Also, is everyone with an after market amp and sub using the single line on the spreadsheet to enable factory sub, or the 2 variable line level pre amp outputs? (Non Sony 7 speaker stock system)
Thanks for all the good reading on here!!
Last edited by andrewjr11; 01-29-2018 at 08:45 PM.
#725
I tried to use the WPT1212 and factory harness to add a power sub to my 2018 XLT.
I wasn't get +12 power from the harness and noticed the 20A fuse was missing from fuse box under hood. When i tried to install a 20A micro fuse, the teeth at bottom of socket was not installed at factory. So it appears that the factory might have stopped building out the circuit for the 2018 trucks without the sub installed at factory.
I still get the signal +/-, 6 volt remote and ground appears to work, it just looks like +12v power is missing now.
It looks like i'll need to run power directly from the battery.
I wasn't get +12 power from the harness and noticed the 20A fuse was missing from fuse box under hood. When i tried to install a 20A micro fuse, the teeth at bottom of socket was not installed at factory. So it appears that the factory might have stopped building out the circuit for the 2018 trucks without the sub installed at factory.
I still get the signal +/-, 6 volt remote and ground appears to work, it just looks like +12v power is missing now.
It looks like i'll need to run power directly from the battery.
I just bought a 2018 stx with the standard 6 speaker stereo. Does yours have the 7 speaker setup? Did you get this working by just running the 12v power? So everything was working with factory plug in rear pillar after activating with forscan? Thanks for any info.
#726
I tried to use the WPT1212 and factory harness to add a power sub to my 2018 XLT.
I wasn't get +12 power from the harness and noticed the 20A fuse was missing from fuse box under hood. When i tried to install a 20A micro fuse, the teeth at bottom of socket was not installed at factory. So it appears that the factory might have stopped building out the circuit for the 2018 trucks without the sub installed at factory.
I still get the signal +/-, 6 volt remote and ground appears to work, it just looks like +12v power is missing now.
It looks like i'll need to run power directly from the battery.
I wasn't get +12 power from the harness and noticed the 20A fuse was missing from fuse box under hood. When i tried to install a 20A micro fuse, the teeth at bottom of socket was not installed at factory. So it appears that the factory might have stopped building out the circuit for the 2018 trucks without the sub installed at factory.
I still get the signal +/-, 6 volt remote and ground appears to work, it just looks like +12v power is missing now.
It looks like i'll need to run power directly from the battery.
#728
So then that means it can no longer be easily added as an accessory. And anyone with a 2018 that didn’t order it from the factory has a more complicated install. I’m not convinced of that yet. It makes more sense to me that platylover has a 300A which the kicker sub is not available from the factory. I believe that the 300A has a different harness, not that all non-kicker XL and XLT’s have a fuse and a power lead missing.
#729
I was wondering if anyone had the factory sub and "upgraded" to the Kicker plug-n-play... Just wondering if it sounds any better, or if you could even notice the difference?
#730
Junior Member
i have the 302A package with nav, sync 3 and 7 speakers and no factory sub. The harness still works for signal, remote turn on and ground. Just no 12v constant power. I ended up running 12v power though grommet on drivers side firewall and I ran a new ground near the amp instead of using ground in the harness.
it was easy to run the power to the rear. The door sill trim comes off pretty easily and there is a channel for wiring underneath.
also Kansas City plant if that makes a difference.
it was easy to run the power to the rear. The door sill trim comes off pretty easily and there is a channel for wiring underneath.
also Kansas City plant if that makes a difference.
Last edited by platylover; 02-15-2018 at 07:05 PM.