I enabled the truck for the subwoofer first it sounded ok but when I enabled the truck for 7 speaker with kicker it sounds horrible. Switched back to just subwoofer enabled. I was hoping the addition of a subwoofer would make me happy but it sounds bad still. I see $$$ being spent to make it right. @crchisto I bought the same lc4 to power on my amp from the 6v hope you get this solved

 

Hopping on this thread.

Instead of wiring up a sub, I installed an amp.

It may be buried somewhere in this thread, but there are two voltage wires once enabled with FORSCAN.

One, mentioned above is 6V. There's another that's 12V. Does anyone know if the 12V signal is constant or keyed?

I've tapped into the 6V signal for my amp and it pops when I open the door. I'm wondering if I should use the 12V instead of if that would drain my battery.

Thanks!

 

The 12v is constant I used the PAC TR-4 and wired the trigger wire to the 6v it doesn’t pop getting in not sure about power off popping.

 

Thanks. I just ordered one.

12V in to the constant on the subwoofer harness then the relay input to the 6V sub remote?

 

I used the factory subwoofer plug and the PAC TR-4 which has 4 wires 12 V, negative, trigger, remote. I connected the 12 & negative then tied the trigger wire to the 6v then ran the remote wire to my amplifier. If you get the pig tail you can solder this up and heat shrink it along with your rca’s so when you get to the truck it plugs in nice and neat.

 

Ok. I installed the PAC TR-4. I have 12V, ground, and the trigger wire working to remotely power two amps.

However, I'm not getting the audio signal. My sub amp just doesn't generate any sound unless I run RCAs from the pre out of the other amp.

I have enabled the subwoofer with FORscan and selected the 7 speaker with sub option. I didn't mess with anything else which, I read, is how it should be for non subwoofer optioned trucks.

Wiring wise, I have connected a PAC line out converter to a single RCA cable and tried feeding that to both left and right channels on the sub's amp. The PAC, in turn, is wired to the two wires adjacent to the remote trigger on the OEM harness adapter.

Any ideas where I went wrong?

 

The PAC TR-4 Has nothing to do with the audio it basically is using the factory wiring to turn the amp on and off because most amplifiers require 12V in Ford only supplied 6V remote wire. It’s basically a relay that closes whenever 6 volts is provided and sends the needed 12 volts over to your amplifier remote.

The factory plug has the following:
Orange/red = power
Black/violet = ground
Brown = remote turn on/clip detect
Violet = speaker + Connet both positive wires have your RCA’s here
Green = speaker - Connect both negative wires of your RCA’s here
Black = speaker shielding

If you are using the 1212 harness with the wires facing toward you and the clip at the top that secures into the factory harness:
top left black wire is positive - goes to orange red on factory side
top right is a ground wire or negative - Black violet on factory side
bottom left is the remote turn on - Brown on factory side
bottom second on the left is the line level positive - Violet on factory side
bottom third right is the line level negative - Green on factory side
you don’t use any other wires

 

You need to enable sub output in forscan.

 

I did this last winter when I bought the OBDLink, along with several options.

On reflection, however, I don't think that I enabled anything else sub related.

Would the constant 12V and trigger signal be turned on through FORscan or are they always active, regardless? Just trying to see if I need to go back in and double check my settings.

Anyway, I'm thinking that it's a low level signal and adding the line out converter attenuated it. I will try to tie in just an RCA lead and see what that gets me.

 

during my install I tried to use the 6V wire to trigger a 6V relay to provide 12v to kick on my Alpine amp/Sub combo. There was not enough current available (70mA required) to trigger the relay. The voltage on the 6V wire dropped to 2.3V trying to get the relay coil to energize and never made it happen. I had to wire in a FET to trigger the coil.