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during my install I tried to use the 6V wire to trigger a 6V relay to provide 12v to kick on my Alpine amp/Sub combo. There was not enough current available (70mA required) to trigger the relay. The voltage on the 6V wire dropped to 2.3V trying to get the relay coil to energize and never made it happen. I had to wire in a FET to trigger the coil.
The PAC TR-4 works for this application but the 6v signal doesn't cut off for around 3 minutes after you lock your truck for some reason.
I enabled the truck for the subwoofer first it sounded ok but when I enabled the truck for 7 speaker with kicker it sounds horrible. Switched back to just subwoofer enabled. I was hoping the addition of a subwoofer would make me happy but it sounds bad still. I see $$$ being spent to make it right. @crchisto I bought the same lc4 to power on my amp from the 6v hope you get this solved
Enabling the Kicker settings will turn on the equalization settings specifically set up for the Kicker system. You probably don't want that. Just go with the 7 speaker setting assuming you have 7 speakers.
I think the setting "optimize for driver" sounds horrible. I leave it set to "optimize for all", or whatever it's actually named.
Also, you should enable the External Speaker instead of the Sub.
Enabling the External Speaker will send the full frequency output to your amp and you can use the amps frequency filter(s) to tune it to your liking.
If you enable the sub, the signal goes through the factory low pass filter. That will cause your sub amp low pass filter to "fight" with the stock unit filter, and that's not a good thing.
Good luck! Mine sounds pretty good set up this way.
Just adding that I was able to install an Alpine PWE-S8 sub/amp combo using the methods found in here. 2015 Lariat 501a (Non-Sony). Used the WPT-1212 to tap into the factory wiring. No need for the PAC TR-4. Using the full frequency output from the WPT-1212 wired into an RCA splitter so both are plugged in to the box but in mono.
I am very pleased with the sound. It's more in line with a nice premium factory system now and didn't cost much at all.
I tried to use the WPT1212 and factory harness to add a power sub to my 2018 XLT.
I wasn't get +12 power from the harness and noticed the 20A fuse was missing from fuse box under hood. When i tried to install a 20A micro fuse, the teeth at bottom of socket was not installed at factory. So it appears that the factory might have stopped building out the circuit for the 2018 trucks without the sub installed at factory.
I still get the signal +/-, 6 volt remote and ground appears to work, it just looks like +12v power is missing now.
It looks like i'll need to run power directly from the battery.
I’ve looked and can’t seem to get the answer. Can anyone tell me the difference between the Ford Kicker amp and sub combo and the Kicker VSS sub and amp combo. They look identical other then Fords silver amp and Kickers black amp. Fords needs to be programmed by dealer or with Forscan, Kickers is plug and play. I have a 2017 lariat with 7 speaker and navigation but not the Sony stereo. Would changing anything with Forscan inmprove the Kicker VSS system?
I’ve looked and can’t seem to get the answer. Can anyone tell me the difference between the Ford Kicker amp and sub combo and the Kicker VSS sub and amp combo. They look identical other then Fords silver amp and Kickers black amp. Fords needs to be programmed by dealer or with Forscan, Kickers is plug and play. I have a 2017 lariat with 7 speaker and navigation but not the Sony stereo. Would changing anything with Forscan inmprove the Kicker VSS system?
If you’re talking about comparing the Ford version to the $1200 Kicker VSS, then the VSS is 200 amps versus 100 for the FordKicker unit. The VSS package also includes a DSP; Ford Kicker doesn’t.
Well I was able to get my sub working by enabling the option in Forscan. I didn't change anything about my computer/adapter set up, I just didn't get the same error that I was getting before. Anyway, after I enabled the option, the kicker hideaway turned on and is now working great. One note, the hideaway has a setting where it can detect the audio signal and use that to turn on instead of the remote line. Although I did connect the remote line, the sub doesn't seem to work with this option. I suspect it is because the voltage is only 6V as lucas8888 had measure (I haven't confirmed). In any case, I'll just use the high level monitoring to turn the sub on. It was really nice that this could be completely plug and play. I didn't have to fish any wires or splice anything on the factory harness. I've attached pictures of the WPT-1212 that I recieved to couple to my Hideaways harness. I also have a picture of the jumper harness after I soldered all the connections. Gray connection to chassis harness, black to hideaway subwoofer.
Hey guys, Im looking for the wiring diagram used to wire the Kicker hideaway harness to the WPT1212. I see that JNis55 did it, but I cant find any details on which wires to pair together between the two harnesses.
Hey guys, Im looking for the wiring diagram used to wire the Kicker hideaway harness to the WPT1212. I see that JNis55 did it, but I cant find any details on which wires to pair together between the two harnesses.
with the 1212 harness facing away and wires facing toward you it's this...top is where the clip is that secures it to the harness.
Top left black is positive. Orange red on the factory side
Top far right is ground or negative. Black violet on the factory side.
Bottom left is remote turn on. Brown on factory side.
Bottom 2nd to left is line level + violet on the factory side
Bottom 3rd to the right is line level - green on factory side
