I ended up tapping into the doors, which made me cringe the whole time but you should see how I wired my old F-150 and it has lasted since Jan 2009...

Anyway, check out this photo of the driver side audio harness:



I tapped into the upward part of the harness at the lowest point that I could on each side of the truck. The loom going to the rear (and obviously the one going into the rear door) forks out of the loom coming from the front... And the rear loom does contain the green and purple signal wires. I didn't take it apart to look but I do suspect that I actually have the wiring but the signal isn't being sent because of an ACM setting most likely. Another possibility is the ACMs that come with the 4.2" Sync systems don't send a signal out to the green/purple wires. I'm going to revisit the C-pillar harness once I upgrade away from my stock ACM (no Sirius, no HD, 4.2" Sync; the most base model radio possible, I think).

 

they are one, so yes. the one that says acm asbuilt you have to make changes via "bits" the one that just says acm you make changes with checkboxes, and so on for all the modules

 

You can add needed bass to your system for right around $100. No, it won't produce the sound of a $1200 system. Yes, it will be more than enough to put a smile on your face everytime you turn on the radio. And yes, it could be removed in less than 5 minutes and nobody would ever know it was ever there.

https://www.f150forum.com/f118/still-need-subwoofer-read-382391/

 

in the other post, you say this

That factory harness is there to power the factory 150w subwoofer for those with the option.

how do I determine if I have that option? Without it you just have to run power?

I would like to go with exactly what you outlined, but I want to be sure it will work.

I've read that one system (forget the brand) didn't work with auto-stop engines?

 

Your call - there are a lot of other options, if you are willing to go under the seat you can do a much louder setup.

I personally did a Kicker PX200.1 ($50 on Amazon 200x1 mono amp), and then a 12" sub under the seat. Another member used the same amp, and dual 8"s.
Lots of options, but this little amp rocks, is cheap, and it will run off the factory harness no issues for power/ground/turn on.

Chris

 

If you already have a factory subwoofer installed it would be behind the seat. If you don't already have a subwoofer the wiring is already there. I dont anticipate you will have any trouble getting a system to work.

As long as you keep the amplifier small enough you will not need to run power as your pre-wiring will be fine. If your chosen amplifier uses a fuse larger than 20-25 amp then it has potential to dram more power than the factory install can handle and you'll need to run a separate power supply. This is why I chose the system that I did. It fits perfectly behind the seat and only uses a 15a fuse.

Im not sure of which system won't work with auto stop or why. My chosen setup works flawlessly.

 

just wanted to add my 10cents... I've been running a kicker amp CX300.1 (300 rms) off the factory harness power for a week. I knew it was potentially border line if it would work... but had no issues at so far. Still playing around with the sound with forscan and trying different line converters. But as for the power it's been solid. The amp stays fairly cool also.

 

I first looked on crutchfield for a vehicle specific sub, I saw this

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206SFS...-SubStage.html

if you look at the description you will see this

(Note: This system won't work in Ford EcoBoost vehicles with Auto Start-Stop Technology.)

Then I thought I better get a professional involved to get this right, I asked my local stereo shop and they were hesitant when I mentioned sync lol (the installer wasn't there and they want to ask him before recommending anything, hes back tomorrow)

Anyway, if the wiring is there I don't need much, just looking to add some bass, if it's simple I'm down with doing it myself (with you guys helping virtually lol)

 

I also tried to find a local installer before deciding to piece something together myself. Everyone I contacted wanted to be aggressive and go straight for a custom build/install and NONE would touch the factory plug. If your local shops are anything like mine you're definitely spinning your wheels by asking them and are going to end up doing it yourself.

Edit: Forgot to mention that as far as that substage at crutchfield goes you could get MUCH more bang for your $700.

 

what line converters have you tried? Did you tap the door feeds or use the harness? I was on doors. Was ok. Then went to harness when I swapped amps and it sucked so I went back to door wiring. Bass is better now but pops when I open doors or shut of truck and don't get out right away....