I have heard others say the TPS fixed their shifting problems.

 

Yep, eventually & sometimes sooner if you clear the KAM after you do the bump! I don't have a link for the Idle re-range procedure. Obviously, if your Idle is up & your knocking on ping's door, sooner is better than later!
It's in my grey matter & I believe, referenced in the Alldata Info for my truck. I'm hoping someone remembers where I posted it on many occasions in the past, otherwise I'll have to knock off a few cobwebs! Anybody? Nothing's ever important, till you forget what you did w/ it!

 

I do have an AODE-W. I doubt it's a response to the cooling system. I have a 180 degree stat and she runs "cold" all the time. Barely ever comes off the "N" on the gauge. Used to run somewhere around the "R" before I put the stat in. I've always wondered about it too. Doesn't make sense to increase the idle but, it does and always has.

My idle stayed the same. It's always the same. No matter what I do. I first bumped the timing to 16 degrees and pulled the battery cable. Same idle. The next time I dropped it back to 14 degrees but did NOT pull the battery cable. Same idle.

Any ideas?

 

Remember the old guy w/ a bad intake gasket (internal, not around the outer perimeter)?
Could not get his idle to co-operate. Did not surge, but a constantly high. Could explain ping too. Remember the thread? Lotsa pages & everybody was trying to figure it out. I even suggested this relating to your situation at the time. He was an ex-military mechanic.

If we can't find the IAC re-range procedure trolling the Forum, I'll re-post it. I know it's on my old PC. It won't hurt to try it. I also PM'ed it to dr_bowtie! You have a tach right?

 

Man, the things I do for you!!! Page 4 in this thread. IAC Idle Re-range https://www.f150forum.com/f10/timing...ap-info-44854/

 

I do remember and I do have a tach. I'll give it a whirl. So, I suppose if re-ranging doesn't work, I'll have to check for vac leaks....

 

I got no such PM...?

find the base idel spec in the manual and make sure the idle is set to that range with the IAC unplugged...you'd be surprised how many are not within spec...make sure the throttle body is cleaned too...anything holding the blades open effects idle...

most every truck I have worked on has died as soon as the IAC is unplugged...apparently according to the manual I read it isnt supposed too? havent looked to deep into it..

I know the other day my buddies MAF 5.0L we bumped the idle up as he was having issues when it is warming it up it will die at idle and it does it hot if you romp the throttle a couple times and let off it dies and will not idle at all...then it will after a few minutes...bumping the idle fixed it...as we dont have time to run the code and even mess with it...lol

 

How do you adjust the idle speed? The TB has a sticker that basically says "DO NOT TOUCH". I did re-range the IAC but it still creeps up to about 850 rpm after several mins. The IAC works though cuz' the engine almost died when I unhooked it. I know the IAC is clean cuz' I just cleaned it, looks like new, seriously.

Actually, my problem is the idle speed is a touch to high and increases by itself with no input or change. (i.e. no accessories turned on, etc)

When I replaced the TPS I cleaned the the TB it was gunked up and I noticed a lot of carbon just inside the intake on the top opening. I didn't clean it out for fear of pushing the carbon in and down the intake.

Should I pull the intake and give it a good cleaning?

 

Your right dr_bowtie. And your internet was down just prior to me posting it.
Re-range the IAC Idle:
Start by warming the engine to norm. op. temp. Then shut off the engine & disconnect the battery for 5+ minutes (not much more,you want it to pretty much remain at norm.op.temp.). Then reconnect the battery, restart and observe idle.

If that didn't do it, with someone w/ their foot on the accellerator, disconnect the IAC. The idle will falter & try to stall (If it dosen't, your IAC is probably bad). The person on the accelerator should catch the idle & maintain it at 650-675rpm. It will fight for 30-60 seconds but will settle in after that. Maintain for a minimum of 2 minutes. Then shut it off, reconnect the IAC & after 1 minute, restart.

You should be looking at 650-675 rpm now. If you have 650-675rpm, Turn on Lights, A/C, whatever you have that creates an engine load, and let idle for a minimum of 2 minutes, then shut off for 1 minute (on my automatic, I find that putting it in gear w/ foot on the brake suffices).

Re-rangeing the IAC is many times required after base timing is advances more than 2 degrees at a time. This assumes no Vac system leaks, no unmetered air flow, a solid ignition system & no active error codes.

Once I did this at 16 BTDC (actually 18 BTDC, but decided those last 2 degrees weren't worth any additional benefits from my otherwise stock engine) I never had to do it again. Dropping to 10 BTDC for smog tests & back up to 16 BTDC right in the smog test parking lot for the drive home.

 

Personally, I can't get that old guy's gasket thread out of the back or my mind!