You haven't done error code scans. He has & passed. You replaced your TFI w/o bench checking. He hasn't replaced his, because he hasn't bench checked his yet. His did start after multiple attempts. You just ran the battery down. Still looking for the similarity.

 

A cylinder output balance test should ID offending cylinder(s), if they're notably off. Could offer one more piece of the puzzle. Don't let your "trusty Rotunda Stars II scanner" get rusty!

 

Well if your splitting hairs... other than nothing, his problem is identical....

 

Yeah, I'm about due for some new toys...erm, ahem... TOOLS, I'll be heading out to get a fuel pressure tester, compression tester, new timing light and a new digital multi meter. I was talking with a friend and Ford Guru and he surmised my "hard starting" and "irratic idle" were probably caused by either the TPS or MAF. Would make sense. I did have a TPS high voltage code some time ago. Looks like I'll be changing the plugs, wires, coil (leave the distributor for now) and TPS this weekend. While i'm at it, I'll go ahead and do the compression and fuel pressure test just to be safe.

BTW, he also gave me a can of Motorcraft Spray Carb Cleaner, he swears it'll eat the chrome off your bumpers but, more importantly, it'll COMPLETELY clean the IAC and EGR. He said if I use it, they'll look like new, not just "better". I'll give it a shot and post results. If it's that good, y'all might want to get some....

*Fingers Crossed*

 

It will be interesting to see if the TPS or MAF helps.

 

I'm changing the TPS first. I'll see if that does it. If not, MAF here I come!

He suspects while both sensors could be "in range", so as to not produce a code, both could be sending false readings to the computer, thus the hard starting/erratic idle. Kinda like the computer thinks I'm mashing the gas a bit while starting and after it's running. (that's how he explained it) It would also explain why it seems to clear up once it's warmed up. Which is the exact opposite of an ignition issue, where they normally fail once warm and run great cold.

 

I'd still check the fuel pressure first.

 

That sounds sounds very familiar! Where did I here that before? Also a little KA-KA on the MAF sensor wires would be enough to do it! You do have a K&N setup!

 

No ka-ka on the MAF. The K&N works great! I did clean the MAF back in Decemberish, I didn't notice any difference, maybe she's due again?!!?

It went against everything in me but, I broke down and bought the Ford replacement MSD cap & rotor, $30 and easier than putting my distributor in. I'll give it all a whirl and post results.

Thanks guys!

 

And so I did. Here's what I got:

Front tank:
KOEO - 35psi (remained there for over 5 mins after key turned off)
KOER - 30psi

Rear Tank:
KOEO - 38psi (remained there for over 5 mins after key turned off)
KOER - 30psi

So it would seem, while barely in spec, my fuel system is in spec. According to my Haynes Manual:

Engine Off PSI - 35-45 psi ( had 35 and 38)
Engine running vac hose connected - 30-45 psi (I had 30psi on both tanks)

I did not perform the engine running vac hose disconnected cuz' it passed, albeit barely, both of these tests.

Next: Replace TPS.

EDIT:

Checked TPS voltage KOEO - at rest it's .89 volts and max voltage is 4.63 volts, it also has a "hiccup" around 1.0 - 1.80 volts, plus will actually go from .89 to .91 to .88 volts as soon as you start to move the gas pedal. From what I've read it should be EXACTLY .98 volts at rest and some where around 4.90 volts at max. Hmm... perhaps this is one ***** in the armor? I'm going out to replace it and the cap, rotor, wires and plugs now and will post results after.