Sounds like your on the right track. Make sure the tester battery is fresh & test lead contact is stable.

 

The TPS doesn't seem to good to me.

 

Does the fuel pressure test results seem a bit low to either of you? Or anyone else?


Brand new Digital Multi Meter and Batteries


...and so it wasn't! I put the new TPS on and checked the voltage, KOEO it was at .98 volts! While I had the TB off, I recleaned it with that Motorcraft Carb Spray Cleaner, that stuff is AMAZING! My IAC looks like brand new now and the TB is a heck of a lot better. I also installed my MSD cap and rotor along with my Taylor Thundervolt 8.2 wires, Mallory 51K Coil and a standard set of Motorcraft Copper Cores gapped to .050.

Took her out for a drive and man what a difference! She started way easier than it ever has and is much more responsive. And hey Ymeski, that peski spark knock I've had since I bumped my timing to 12 degrees is completely gone now even on 87 octane!!! Dare I bump it again!?!??

next thing to do:

Re-range the IAC - anyone care to post how to do it yet again? I forget.

 

Now the fun can really begin! What's your warm idle at now? (fuel pressure isn't stellar, but not tragic either)

 

Umm.. don't know the warm idle speed. I haven't had a chance to really drive it much (damn honey-do list!). I will take it out tonight for a bit. I did notice the idle is smoother and "in-gear" idle speed seems a touch lower @650 or so. I'll find out for sure and post.

Any insight on re-ranging the IAC?

Should I look at replacing the fuel regulator or in-tank pumps? Like you, Ymeski I am very pro-active in avoiding future problems if I can.

 

BTW, I thoroughly inspected the old platinum plugs, wires, cap and rotor. They all seemed fine. Plugs were a nice tan color, no carbon, no ash. The plug wires had no burns, chaffs, or cracks. The cap and rotor had signs of wear and a tiny bit of that white crusty stuff but, not a ton. Odd though, I just put all that on about 10,000 miles ago. They should have looked almost new (cap & rotor) like the wires and plugs did.

I'd like to re-range the IAC and drive it for a few days to see if the problem comes back but, I may have to bump the timing to 14 degrees first!

 

The IAC will rerange itself eventually, otherwise ymeski has the link for that. Fuel pressure was within specs.

 

So.... the warm, in gear, idle speed is 700 rpm. The warm idle in Park starts at 700rpm but will creep up to about 850-900rpm in about 3-4 minutes of idleing. It's done that since I got it. Is that normal?

 

okee dokee, I went out with my trusty timing light to see how far I could go. I was at 12 degrees with spark knock when running 87 octane. After the repairs yesterday the spark knock went away. I bumped it to 16 degrees and had a tinge of spark knock, backed it down to 14 and all is right in the world. Wish I could get it to 16 but, looks like I'm stuck at 14.

(I did try 15 but the knock was still there a bit)

Oh well.

It is running better/stronger/faster than it ever has and strangly enough that TPS seems to have fixed my trans slipping between 1st and 2nd gear?!?

 

Check to see if your Idle RPM creeped when you went up the extra degrees. I'm betting!

The TPS can have an influence on shifting, some transmissions, more than others. I'm guessing much less w/ an AOD than when an "E' is added.

The warm increasing as it runs longer bothers me, unless it's a cooling system related response.