Warm Starting Issue
After my truck is at full operating temp and i shut it off and come back in maybe 10 min or less it will not start... it will crank and crank and then when it does start it has the gargle glug glug sound like its not running on all cyclinders and then after about 5-10 sec of that it will vrooom up and will idle just fine... during that gargle period if i press the gas pedal it will not rev up, like it has a retarded feel to it. However, at other times this issue will not happen at all.. About 50% of the time... This does not happen when the truck is cold though. Truck always runs great after it passes that starting hiccup... Could this be a sensor of some sort? I have already changed IAC, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil. Could this be a sensor of some sort? It is a '95 f150 351w ... Any advice would be much appreciated before I take it in
I checked the codes with a computer diag tool at my friends shop and no codes... yeah i thought it might be the pump too... why would it only have that problem after its warm but not at cold start up overnight?
Agree with Sean - whenever something unusual is going on, a great first step is to yank the codes.
Another suggestion is that the injectors may be bleeding down / leaking. Unusual, but not entirely unheard of.
When the engine has sat long enough to be cold - the fuel has had time to dissipate. When the engine is still warm, could have symptoms similar to a flooded engine.
Perhaps try additional fuel-charging cycles as a WAG. Roll the key from Off to On a couple of times, letting the two-second or so fuel pump priming cycle complete each time. Then roll on to Start and see whether anything changes. If you don't know what the problem is, then I'm all for doing the easy stuff toward figuring out what it's not.
Another suggestion is that the injectors may be bleeding down / leaking. Unusual, but not entirely unheard of.
When the engine has sat long enough to be cold - the fuel has had time to dissipate. When the engine is still warm, could have symptoms similar to a flooded engine.
Perhaps try additional fuel-charging cycles as a WAG. Roll the key from Off to On a couple of times, letting the two-second or so fuel pump priming cycle complete each time. Then roll on to Start and see whether anything changes. If you don't know what the problem is, then I'm all for doing the easy stuff toward figuring out what it's not.
Agree with Sean - whenever something unusual is going on, a great first step is to yank the codes.
Another suggestion is that the injectors may be bleeding down / leaking. Unusual, but not entirely unheard of.
When the engine has sat long enough to be cold - the fuel has had time to dissipate. When the engine is still warm, could have symptoms similar to a flooded engine.
Perhaps try additional fuel-charging cycles as a WAG. Roll the key from Off to On a couple of times, letting the two-second or so fuel pump priming cycle complete each time. Then roll on to Start and see whether anything changes. If you don't know what the problem is, then I'm all for doing the easy stuff toward figuring out what it's not.
Another suggestion is that the injectors may be bleeding down / leaking. Unusual, but not entirely unheard of.
When the engine has sat long enough to be cold - the fuel has had time to dissipate. When the engine is still warm, could have symptoms similar to a flooded engine.
Perhaps try additional fuel-charging cycles as a WAG. Roll the key from Off to On a couple of times, letting the two-second or so fuel pump priming cycle complete each time. Then roll on to Start and see whether anything changes. If you don't know what the problem is, then I'm all for doing the easy stuff toward figuring out what it's not.
could the fuel pressure regulator be an issue?
Sure, but I would think the problems it would cause would be seen both cold and warm.
One check is to monitor the fuel pressure drop when the engine is first shut off - the decay should be on the order of minutes, not instantaneous. Another is to just have a look for any fuel leakage / seepage around the valve.
One check is to monitor the fuel pressure drop when the engine is first shut off - the decay should be on the order of minutes, not instantaneous. Another is to just have a look for any fuel leakage / seepage around the valve.
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I suppose the pick-up, or anything electrical, could be a possibility - but I would put that way down on the list of probable causes. The pick-up, coil, and TFI module can be tested - most shop manuals such as Chilton's, Haynes, Motor, etc. have the procedures. Although if the cause is due to heat, the test may be inconclusive.
Have you checked the codes yet? May help save some time and money - either by identifying a problem, or by letting you know what isn't causing a problem.
Have you checked the codes yet? May help save some time and money - either by identifying a problem, or by letting you know what isn't causing a problem.
I suppose the pick-up, or anything electrical, could be a possibility - but I would put that way down on the list of probable causes. The pick-up, coil, and TFI module can be tested - most shop manuals such as Chilton's, Haynes, Motor, etc. have the procedures. Although if the cause is due to heat, the test may be inconclusive.
Have you checked the codes yet? May help save some time and money - either by identifying a problem, or by letting you know what isn't causing a problem.
Have you checked the codes yet? May help save some time and money - either by identifying a problem, or by letting you know what isn't causing a problem.




