2 notches past the zero on the right side would be 4 degrees, advanced.

think about it, if the engine rotates clockwise, and your pointer is to the right of zero, that means it hasn't got to zero yet or its advanced, if it was after it would be retarted.

that is pretty far off, i just looked at my stock balancer and i don't have any big notches in it, just timing marks, but its off v-8 stuff.

 

He says the mark is 2 notches to the right of 0, and the right of 0 is ATDC so his timing is retarded. The balancer has the notch and the scale is on the engine. As far as the deep V notch, I messed up, that's for Chevy.

 

I figured I was on the right track but sometimes this stuff will confuse you. I really hope this is not just another "pig in the poke" but a possible answer.

The 4.9L uses two gears for the timing set right? No chain involved? I am thinking the timing could be off due to wear on the crank or cam gear or in the distributor. I do know it needs to be closer to right than it is.

My biggest issue is not being able to read the numbers on the timing pointer. I will go by the carwash today and try to spray off the rest of the crud. Just imagine the POWER power it will have when the timing is set right! (It's no slouch now)

I went to get a haynes manual book yesterday. They said,"sure we've got two". But guess what, none to be found. So they ordered it and some gaskets for me. It sucks to have to look up everything on the net, everytime you think you are on to something you spend 75% of the time looking for info. A book will be a nice.

Maybe it won't be pouring down rain today and something will get accomplished. Thanks guys.

 

okay here is the latest:

The big notch, best I can tell, is 10 deg BTDC. Mine was only off by about 4deg. I adjusted today but haven't got to drive yet. I also made a new discovery, my vacuum canister(coffee can) on the passenger-side fender well is cracked and sucking air. I am going to look for a used one or fix mine because a new one is $40. May try to find a plastic one off a chevy.

I tried the starting fluid test and found the cracked canister but that was about it. I thought for just split second that when I srayed the IAC assembly that the engine idled down but I could not replicate the event. I am now idling, with the line to the canister plugged, between 950 and 1050 rpm at operating temp.

I did get my haynes manual today. I plan to check the IAC and the EGR postion sensor tonight or tomorrow.

I still think the IAC may be a source of my problem. When you unplug it the truck runs fine but about the same rpm. shouldn't it be lower? Plus it is slow to idle down even when the engine is hot.

slowly but surely I will get the Idle down to normal. The Vacuum can is worth about 100-150 rpm.

 

pulle dthe codes today but I forgot to clear the codes before the new test. I think that is why some codes are shown twice. KOEO 522, 522.............334, 334 and for the KOER 172, 172
I translate as the following:

522= manual lever position sensor circuit open/ vehicle in gear. My revers light don't work any more and I had the vehicle in neutral for the test. faulty switch?
334= EGR closed voltage higher than expected. Could the egr valve not be closing al the way? Possible source of my vacuum leak and a source for the next code?
172= HEGO (O2 sensor) shyows system always lean.

I got it to Idle down to about 950 today, but is starting to develope a lope. This could be from one of the codes. I also read in the Haynes manual where if the PCM recieved a 172 it would operate in open loop mode using set parameters. So I guess my truck is running in limp mode?

I plan to pull and clean the EGR and spare EGR I pulled today along with the spare IAC valve. I think it is narrowing down to EGR IAC or O2, the IAC is working but it may not be able to compensate if the EGR is not closing. And the O2 is showing lean because of the extra air? Or the EGR is not closing and the O2 is just bad. Or the the EGR is Just bad. Ill get it sooner or later. later guys

 

I don't think it's running in limp mode. The EGR could be stuck open, which would also give you the lean code. MLPS is for automatic, so probably the clutch switch.

 

I traced out the 522 code and it is the manual lever position switch for the auto tranny and it is bypassed when you push the clutch down on a manual tranny. You were right.


I swapped the egr position sensor (evp) and got rid of the 134 code for now. But the book says the EVP should read 5000 ohms with the egr closed and 100 with the egr open. Even with the evp off the valve both of mine only got as low as 350. And the egr preloads the evp alittle when you assemble them. so both of mine read between 450 and 800 open, but the one that came off my truck only read 3900 closed and the doner read 4600 so I swaped them. I also swapped the IAC. The truck idles down like it should now but....only to about 950 or 1000rpm. Cold it starts and goes to 1600 for a few second and gradually strats comming down to about 1200 and then to about 1000. And when you rev it up it goes back to the same place.
But I did find the source of my vacuum leak. The egr valve is sucking air around its shaft. And a good bit at that. If you spray inside the little holes on the diaphram canister it will drop the idle to about 800rpm. So I am still getting the 172 and I think that is why.

The doner egr isn,t in bad shape but when I filled the valve orfice with cleaner it too leaked around the shaft but not as bad. But is doesn't move quite as smoothe as mine. I may check the EVP readings to see if it is closing all the way if so I may try it. If not I am going to break down and get one. It is either that or the O2 causing the problem.

 

Was the IAC new or used? I don't know if you tried yet but turn the truck off and back on while it's running without letting the engine stall and that usually resets the IAC and allows the idle to drop to the right level. See if it will do that.

 

It was off the other engine, I think it must have been changed because the inside of the valve looked really clean. I ohmed the motor out at 9.6 ohms and I cleaned it really good anyway. I took the motor off before I cleaned the valve then reassembled it. I tried turning off the truck but did do it the way you stated. May try it tomorrow.

I am pretty sure the EGR is not supposed suck that much air. I am going to verify the 134 is gone for sure and then work on the 172 problem. I whish I had a wide band EG Meter to pipe in the exhaust.

I hope that we can mothball this thread soon because I want to work on my front end , the A/C and fix some oil leaks. Well I go to go shop for egr valves you no how it is, "cheap is good, Free is better!".

 

Okay new stuff:

I tried turning the key off and back on while the engine was running, the idle went up and then back down to the same place. I think the IAC is working properly or at least better than the original one.

I notice that when you start the engine cold it idles to 1600 then slowly comes down to about 1200 and then down to about 950 (getting better). But as the engine heats up the idle starts to go back up to about 1100. I think it is the EGR valve heating up and sucking air.

Pulled the codes: KOEO 111 122
KOER 172 411


111 System pass.
122 is TPS below minimum voltage??
172 HEGO show system always lean
411 is unable to control rpm during low rpm check?

I remembered that I adjusted the "do not adjust screw" on the throttle when I was checking vacuum leaks. So I readjusted it and the 122 411 went away.

now it is only the 172 left.

I got a good deal on a new Motorcraft EGR valve it should be here this week. I hope it is that causing the 172.

Another question, a little off subject... my truck's exhaust stinks! What would make it smell so strong? Not raw fuel or oil smoke its that catalytic smell. Could my Cat be bad or the thermactor system. My pump does seem a little loud. (debating taking it off) Would it go away if I gut the Cat. We are not tested for emmissions here. I would much rather smell fuel than that eye watering sour smell.

But then again it could be the 172 causing the smell. ECU thinks the truck is lean (possibly beacause of the vacuum leak) adds some fuel to compensate, resulting in excessive fuel burned in the cat, resulting in strong odor? Its a theory. Or... the O2 is bad.

Thanks guys for all the help. If I never get rid of the 172 or get the Idle right I can be happy because the truck runs, I'd say between 50 and 51%, better.