Okay here is the latest:

I installed the new EGR valve yesterday. I am proud to say my truck now idles about 800 rpm, within normal range. I sprayed the new valve and the idle never changed. So as far as the vacuum system goes I can't find any more leaks. I am happy.

But unfortunately I still have the code 172: HEGO shows system alway lean

I am going to try to test the O2 sensor today but the location of the connector is going to make it hard to get the test lead to it. I have read the haynes book several times and it points to the O2 sensor being bad. But I am going to try to get my hand on a fuel pressure tester to check and see if my pressure may be low.

Anybody got any other ideas?

Thanks for the help.

 

Well my happiness was short lived.
Friday I had to go to Lowes to pick up a water heater, since mine decidedto turn my laundry room into a steam bath. Anyway on the way out there the truck ran wonderful, still feels a little sluggish but not as bad. On the way back the check engine light started to come on and then go off. It did it almost the entire trip home. it would come on for 10-20 seconds then go off for 10-20 seconds, come back on for 10-20 seconds then back off. It would some times stay off for several minutes one time it stayed off almost 10 minutes. I checked the guages nothing strange, no noticeable drivability issues. So when I got home I pulled codes.
KOEO: oc 111 con 332
KOER: 172

332 = insufficient egr flow detected?

172 = always lean

I know about the 172, but what causes the 332, and why doesn't it show up on the KOER test? and why didn't it show up on the way out there?

 

My CEL is wacky. It's on then it's off, then it stays on, no it's off, then on , off,on,off,on....crazzzzzzzzy.

still the same codes 172 and the new 332. After some research I think the Vacuum relay for the EGR may not be working properly. And I need an O2 sensor. i can't figure out why the light never cam on with the old EGR but it does with the new. Arggggg! sometimes......... anyway just venting some steam. The Water heater ate my play money so I am stuck for now twiddling my thumbs. later

Any takers on the codes??

 

Okay if you recall I said it would probably be something stupidly simple? I can't be sure because of the inclimate weather and lack of baby sitter tonight (unable to leave my yard for test drive) but I think part of my problem was vacuum related.

Back when I was on the trail for vacuum leaks I swapped the lines on the Vacuum canister which turned out to be cracked. Well I patched the can but never put the lines back the original way "dumb me".

Today I was using my "new" vacuum pump/tester/brake bleeder/bla, bla, bla.... and notice the vacuum line feeding the egr did not have very much vacuum less than 5inHg with the engine over 2000 rpm. checked the source line for the egr relay and it took forever to get up to 10inHG. I checked the manifold it was about 20+/- idling so I traced the lines and all the vacuum lines for the emissions feed from the canister. So I stuck the inlet and outlet lines from the cannister together and my truck totally changed sound. The smog pump quit rattling, and even the smell changed. UREKA! Their must be some type of check valve inside they cannister. I put the lines back in their original configuration.

Now my egr valve has lot of vacuum and you can even see the vacuum to the valve move up and down rapidly, I suppose that is from the ECM sending open and close signals. I hope this fixes something because I was ready to get a EGR relay, but now I hope I don't need one.

I also bought a EGR positon sensor and changed it before I found the vacuum problem. I don't know if it is any good though. The book says it should go from 100 to 5000 ohms. But mine only goes from like 275 to 3800 ohms. Do you think it is okay, should I try for a new one or test first and return second. I have two old sensors (one off my truck and the other off my doner) but they don't hit the mark either. Has any one tested a new one? I will search the ALIEN post for info also.

I bought an O2 sensor but weather has kept me from putting it in. I have been using KROIL on it. Hopefully with the aid of a O2 socket it will come out.

I also checked the fuel pressure 55psi KOEO and 45psi KOER. That is okay right?

I cleared the codes and did a KOEO test and the KOER test. KOEO 111 and 111. KOER still got the 172 but nothing else. I hope the O2 fixes that. So here we go again.

Does any one know exactly when the EGR is supposed to open. And How the Thermactor system works?

Thanks for any help and sorry this post was so long.

 

quick update:
test drive no CEL, no ill effects.
Pulled codes:
KOEO 111, 334
KOER 172
I have made a complete circle to nowhere. But I've still got the O2 sensor to change and tomorrow is a new day.

 

Just wanted to let you know that i have the same problem. I replaced the o2 sensor and still the same problem. I have checked for vacuum leaks, ect..... I also have loud noises coming from my smog pump too. I'm not sure where to go from here but if you have any ideas let me know!!

 

what are your symptoms exactly?

I have made some progress and found some interesting things.

FIRST nad MOST IMPORTANT get a haynes manual, chilton manual or a Ford service manual. You have got to have something to go by. I bought a haynes because I got tired of having to look everything up on the web.

Test what you think may be wrong.
I initially had a deadspot and a miss. So I did a tune-up, plugs, wires cap rotor. No more miss same dead spot.
Changed TPS still had the dead spot.
Changed thermostat because mine was stuck open. I do not think it is related to any problem other than the cold heater.
Changed fuel filter really needed it. Checked timming, mine was off 4 degrees.
Changed EGR because it had a vacuum leak around the shaft seal
Changed the egr position sensor, Not even sure the old one was bad because I had some vac lines crossed.
Check the vacuum to the smog pump valves if the diverter valve (I think) isn't working the pump will be loading up.

O2 sensor may get changed today.

It may be a good thing to look for items other places than the parts stores you may save some green. I found my EGR valve on ebay. It was a new Motorcraft for $39 I saved $100+. Also double check Part #'s my truck had a 92 style slave cylinder and line... but is a 93 by the vin#. Good luck.

 

Okay here is the latest:

I went ahead and installed the O2 sensor, although I after reading other post I figured it would do nothing. And it did nothing. But that sensor is now eliminated from the "may be bad list".

After reading several posts and visiting sites about cleaning injectors, I believe my problem (172 lean system) is in fuel delivery, probably dirty injectors. I read some articles that described how dirty injectors will cause a lean code. Also the older style injectors are bad to get clogged. I mixed up a cocktail of GUMOUT(with regane) and SEAFOAM in a tank of 93 octane. Hope it cleans them before something melts.

Is there a way of testing injectors on the vehicle? I also have access to all the enjectors on the doner engine. Is there a easy for cleaning them off the vehicle. I know you can take them to some shops, but it will probably be cheaper to buy a set (not plannning on doing that any time soon).

As for the 334-EGR closed voltage higher than expected, what are the ill effects of this code? Does it do anything other than tell the ECU the closed voltage is higher than expected?

I installed the new EVP sensor but it doesn't check out like the book says it should(100ohms closed-5000ohms open). It reads 275-3800 off the valve. Should I try one of the old EVPs since I found the vacuum problem? or Should I take the new one back and try for a better one?

Isn't there different colors of EVP's? Mine came from Advance and is black. But the one that came off is white. When they crossed the Ford part number and said they could not get anything to match, not even what they sold me. I do not believe the EGR valve is at fault. It closes completely and is smoothe opening and closing. I do not think it is the EGR soleniod because the EGR valve is working. Is it possible they sold me the wrong EVP sensor?

Sorry it another long post. Thanks for any help.

PS gutted my Cat. Totally uneccessary, but got rid of the sour smell. Just making the World a better GREEN HOUSE one trip at a time.

 

I think this will be may last post on this topic. I have made some real progress thinks to the people on this forum. My truck runs better than it ever has. Even though it still has a little bit of a dead spot/ hesitation and still makes a slit ticking/rattling sound, I am proud of our accomplishments. The 4.9L has more lots more power than when I first started de-bugging.

I am baffled by the lean condition and I believe it is causing the hesitation/deadspot and may even be the ticking sound. I think ,with no degree of certainty, that my problems are injector related. I am currently running the last bit of treated gas out of the tank. 1 bottle of gumout, 1 can of seafoam and some lucas day before yesterday.

If I never fix it completely I am satisfied. Thanks for all the help.


Ps here is a list of all my repairs and upgrades.
Plugs
wires
cap
rotor
TP sensor
Transmission
clutch
flywheel
slave cylinder
mastercylinder
thermostat
heatercore
Tachometer (MSD)
set timming
Pioneer sound system
egr valve
EVP sensor
vacuum lines
O2 sensor
Gutted front CAT
removed 2nd CAT
new exhaust
Modified Cobra 25 LTD w/ wilson Ant.

I have to say I have put more in the truck than I paid for it. If I think of anything else Ill add it. THANKS

 

that is prolly why your stuff runs lean you have no cats
you at least need the first one