New and need some help
Hello, I am new to this forum, at least I think I am. I may have signed up a while back but I could not remember if I did. I do know I have searched through this forum many times though.
I have a 93 with the 4.9L (long live the 300 six) and the 5 speed. Nothing fancy, just a plain truck. I bought the truck used, and failed to check behind the previous owner which resulted in a cooked tranny(no oil via shifter tower plugs)
. So now it has a new tranny, fly wheel( to gone to save), slave cylinder, clutch, throw-out bearing, pilot bushing, clutch master cylinder, and a rear main seal. Cost me more than I paid for the truck. But it doesn't smoke after 172,000 miles and doesn't require oil to be added between changes. It does leak oil in several locations
no worry of the engine rusting away.
My problems: I have a dead spot or hesitation when you first engage the throttle. It may be hesitating when you are going down the road at low rpms, it is hard to tell with the SUPER HIGH SPEEDED rear gears it has. It seems to be happening at the transition between when IAC stops controling the rpms and the throttle starts controling. It really gets to be annoying when you are shifting in town because when it hesitates the truck jerks. It is hard to make it do it when idling, but if you feather the throttle quickly, but lightly you can really hear and feel it.
When I first got the truck it would miss accelerating up a hill or from a start, but not when just maintaining speed. So I changed the distributor cap, rotor button, coil and plug wires, and plugs. The plugs I think were the originals. Most of the plugs were over .070" gap and two had broken center eletrodes and over .100" gap ( the gapper would not measure them ). The #6 plug required alot of kroil, wd-40, a 24 inch breaker bar and some TLC to get it out. Fords must have good coils to make those plugs fire. No more miss!
So it is not the ignition system unless it is the distributor or coil. Have adjusted the slack out of the trottle, cleaned the throttle, cleaned the IAC and changed the TPS. No check engine light on either. Any IDEAS??
Second problem a vibrating rattling sound only when not under a load. You really can't hear it outside the truck too good. But you can hear it really good inside the truck with the windows up. Sounds like it is in or behind the dash. I am thinking it is an exhaust leak??? Any IDEAS?
Thanks for any help.
I have a 93 with the 4.9L (long live the 300 six) and the 5 speed. Nothing fancy, just a plain truck. I bought the truck used, and failed to check behind the previous owner which resulted in a cooked tranny(no oil via shifter tower plugs)
. So now it has a new tranny, fly wheel( to gone to save), slave cylinder, clutch, throw-out bearing, pilot bushing, clutch master cylinder, and a rear main seal. Cost me more than I paid for the truck. But it doesn't smoke after 172,000 miles and doesn't require oil to be added between changes. It does leak oil in several locations My problems: I have a dead spot or hesitation when you first engage the throttle. It may be hesitating when you are going down the road at low rpms, it is hard to tell with the SUPER HIGH SPEEDED rear gears it has. It seems to be happening at the transition between when IAC stops controling the rpms and the throttle starts controling. It really gets to be annoying when you are shifting in town because when it hesitates the truck jerks. It is hard to make it do it when idling, but if you feather the throttle quickly, but lightly you can really hear and feel it.
When I first got the truck it would miss accelerating up a hill or from a start, but not when just maintaining speed. So I changed the distributor cap, rotor button, coil and plug wires, and plugs. The plugs I think were the originals. Most of the plugs were over .070" gap and two had broken center eletrodes and over .100" gap ( the gapper would not measure them ). The #6 plug required alot of kroil, wd-40, a 24 inch breaker bar and some TLC to get it out. Fords must have good coils to make those plugs fire. No more miss!
So it is not the ignition system unless it is the distributor or coil. Have adjusted the slack out of the trottle, cleaned the throttle, cleaned the IAC and changed the TPS. No check engine light on either. Any IDEAS??
Second problem a vibrating rattling sound only when not under a load. You really can't hear it outside the truck too good. But you can hear it really good inside the truck with the windows up. Sounds like it is in or behind the dash. I am thinking it is an exhaust leak??? Any IDEAS?
Thanks for any help.
Last edited by bmazingo; Dec 27, 2008 at 09:27 PM. Reason: my grammer sucks
There can still be codes even though the check engine light isn't on, so check for codes first. This thread will explain how:
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/how-retrieve-trouble-codes-obdi-10907/
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/how-retrieve-trouble-codes-obdi-10907/
There can still be codes even though the check engine light isn't on, so check for codes first. This thread will explain how:
https://www.f150forum.com/showthread.php?t=10907
https://www.f150forum.com/showthread.php?t=10907
I do recall the check engine light comming on three different times. All three times I was just creeping around town or in the pasture. All three time the light went off after a short while.
Okay I followed the instructions and pulled the codes with the engine off and running and they are as follow:
Engine Off
2 or 3 really rapid blinks then a pause then the codes
1.1.6....1.1.4....5.2.2....1.1.6....1.1.4....5.2.2 ...............1...............3.3
I think they are 116, 114, 522 and the continuous code is 33 not sure about the rapid blinks at the begining of the test?
Engine on
2 or 3 really rapid blinks, 3 flashes (6cylinder) the engine idled up own its on for probably 15-30 seconds then it came down for a few seconds and back up for a few more seconds. Then it idled down and flashed once, I did not do the throttle test the first time and this is the codes:
1.1.6....1.7.2....5.3.8
not sure if they are right, but I think they are 116 172 538
second time I did the wide open throttle test and this is the code:
1.7.2....1.7.2
think that is 172
I hope this helps, I will be searching for the codes definitions in the forums. Thanks
Engine Off
2 or 3 really rapid blinks then a pause then the codes
1.1.6....1.1.4....5.2.2....1.1.6....1.1.4....5.2.2 ...............1...............3.3
I think they are 116, 114, 522 and the continuous code is 33 not sure about the rapid blinks at the begining of the test?
Engine on
2 or 3 really rapid blinks, 3 flashes (6cylinder) the engine idled up own its on for probably 15-30 seconds then it came down for a few seconds and back up for a few more seconds. Then it idled down and flashed once, I did not do the throttle test the first time and this is the codes:
1.1.6....1.7.2....5.3.8
not sure if they are right, but I think they are 116 172 538
second time I did the wide open throttle test and this is the code:
1.7.2....1.7.2
think that is 172
I hope this helps, I will be searching for the codes definitions in the forums. Thanks
Do these definitions sound correct?
116= Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range
114= IAT sensor out of range - IAT
522= " I could not find such code"
172= Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
538= System did not receive "goose" test - TESTS
33 = ALL - EGR did not open/ respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently - EVP EVR PFE
116= Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range
114= IAT sensor out of range - IAT
522= " I could not find such code"
172= Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
538= System did not receive "goose" test - TESTS
33 = ALL - EGR did not open/ respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently - EVP EVR PFE
The light blinks oddly at the start of the test when it is switching things on and off. I find it odd that you get 116 then 114 because the codes usually come up in numerical order from lowest to highest. Was the truck at normal operating temperature at the time of the test? Because you sometimes get these two when the truck is too cold. That is why you didn't get them again after the second engine running test, it had time to warm up. The definition you have for those is good.
522= manual lever position sensor circuit open/ vehicle in gear. That just means you had the truck in gear instead of neutral when you did the test.
172= oxygen sensor shows system always lean. This can be due to low fuel pressure, faulty regulator or clogged or malfunctioning injectors, among other things. A faulty EGR will cause this code too and since you have an EGR code I would start there.
33= EGR valve opening not detected. The control solenoid may not be receiving vacuum, power or the signal from the computer. The EGR may be stuck.
Code definitions are more specific when you use an F150 manual to look them up instead of a general code book.
522= manual lever position sensor circuit open/ vehicle in gear. That just means you had the truck in gear instead of neutral when you did the test.
172= oxygen sensor shows system always lean. This can be due to low fuel pressure, faulty regulator or clogged or malfunctioning injectors, among other things. A faulty EGR will cause this code too and since you have an EGR code I would start there.
33= EGR valve opening not detected. The control solenoid may not be receiving vacuum, power or the signal from the computer. The EGR may be stuck.
Code definitions are more specific when you use an F150 manual to look them up instead of a general code book.
The truck was cold when I did the first test, then I warmed it up. Does the ecm blink the 1..1 code then blink the others or does it go straight to the codes? Does it repeat the codes? Do you think I should clear the memory during the test, drive it and then pull the codes?
I am going to try to get better readings tomorrow when it is not dark and raining.
My truck has Dual tanks the font has never worked. The pump would hummm but that is all. The rear pump is really loud so it may be getting ready to go out. The truck does seem not to excelerate like it should sometimes, could that be a symptom of low fuel pressure from the pump? What ever I do I am going to start testing and checking connections before I start throwing money at it.
I am going to try to get better readings tomorrow when it is not dark and raining.
My truck has Dual tanks the font has never worked. The pump would hummm but that is all. The rear pump is really loud so it may be getting ready to go out. The truck does seem not to excelerate like it should sometimes, could that be a symptom of low fuel pressure from the pump? What ever I do I am going to start testing and checking connections before I start throwing money at it.
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It repeats the codes. There is a separator code between stored and continuous codes. Code 11 or 111 is system pass. You can try rechecking them again to make sure you got them right, it is confusing the first few times you try until you get the hang of it. You can also clear them after that, drive the truck some and then check them again. You can check the fuel pressure before you go changing pumps but you need a fuel pressure gauge.
Thanks for the information.
Does the system pass code mean there are no codes to report? I think my problem is either the egr valve(components) or the O2 sensor. But I will check the fuel pressure since I have access to a pressure guage.
I did not get to pull the codes again today, but I will post them as soon as I do.
Once again thanks.
Does the system pass code mean there are no codes to report? I think my problem is either the egr valve(components) or the O2 sensor. But I will check the fuel pressure since I have access to a pressure guage.
I did not get to pull the codes again today, but I will post them as soon as I do.
Once again thanks.
The system will start codes with a 11 or 111 no matter what. If no other codes are displayed, it's a pass. If others follow, those are the ones to figure out.
I would doubt it's your O2 sensor - it's reporting a problem due to another issue. Sean tried to convince me of this several months ago, and I bought an O2 sensor anyway. Tore the crap outta the old one, paid a muffler shop to cut it out and weld in a new bung, and $150 later realized that Sean was right... Could be the EGR, could be the fuel pressure regulator, may even be a bad injector. Heck... it could be a lot of things.
If the EGR code comes along again, here is a link to my code 33 thread. It's a long read, but will give you an idea what to look for and how to test all of the components. That thread just wouldn't die - I think some of these guys wanted to kill me (at times I considered killing myself!) Not really, I just killed my bank account.
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/egr-code-33-a-11186/
I'd go ahead and clear codes and take it for a drive - see what comes up after that. Some of those codes could be old news that haven't worked their way out of memory yet.
I would doubt it's your O2 sensor - it's reporting a problem due to another issue. Sean tried to convince me of this several months ago, and I bought an O2 sensor anyway. Tore the crap outta the old one, paid a muffler shop to cut it out and weld in a new bung, and $150 later realized that Sean was right... Could be the EGR, could be the fuel pressure regulator, may even be a bad injector. Heck... it could be a lot of things.
If the EGR code comes along again, here is a link to my code 33 thread. It's a long read, but will give you an idea what to look for and how to test all of the components. That thread just wouldn't die - I think some of these guys wanted to kill me (at times I considered killing myself!) Not really, I just killed my bank account.
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/egr-code-33-a-11186/
I'd go ahead and clear codes and take it for a drive - see what comes up after that. Some of those codes could be old news that haven't worked their way out of memory yet.



