Figured out my mistake. The notch on the balancer, is not the timing mark. 120 degrees away from that notch, is a small 1/8th inch scrib line grooved into the balancer. That lines up with 0 degrees at TDC and rotor now points at #1 like it's supposed to.
Just got to get the wires routed right, and actually set the timing correctly.
I thought I was going crazy till I found that little line, should go a little easier now...

 

yes...the grove is for something else...I had also made that mistake until I found the little line...but, my engine also has timing tabs for BOTH pre and late model engines...there is a cast in timing tab on the timing gear cover for early engines and a timing tab on the left lower side for late models....I did not know about the left hand side tab until a friend told me...it was indeed on the left side of the motor way down low by the AIR pump and all greasy from road grime...it was spot on...

glad you found the issue...

I looked because YM sent me a PM and I replied....

 

OK after all that, the timing is already set at 10btdc. Only took a couple hours to figure out it was right, but at least I know for sure now.
OK back to the codes:
The code 52 power steering switch. I cleaned up all the old fluid and dirt so I could see where it was coming from. The wiring harness that plugs into the pressure switch is leaking right where the wires go into the plug. the wires go through a gray rubber piece, and that rubber piece is pushed out on one side and fluid is coming out there. I tried just to push it in but the pressure pushes it back out. I'll have to disconnect it tomorrow, and try to glue or silicone it back together (probably wont stick though) or I'll just need to splice in a new plug.
Code 41: I guess I need to break down and by an o2 sensor.
code 33: Code did not come back once I got the vacuum lines run right, but I'm still not sure the EGR solenoid is working properly. I'm afraid the code will be coming back. Again, the egr solenoid is getting full vacuum to the bottom port, the line going to the EGR is sparatically pulling 6-10hg at full throttle and it is not moving the egr diaphram ( i can see into it through a small hole) if I apply vacuum to the egr myself the diaphram moves in and out freely/smoothly. When I took the egr off, it had very little carbon build up and the port into the manifold was actually pretty clean.

Looks like I need a new egr solenoid probably, and o2 sensor, and a power steering switch plug, oh and I discovered the windshield wiper motor is shot.
I guess overall, fairly minor problems. For a 20 year old truck with a 6 month old motor, new tranny seals, good tires, body only needs a new tailgate and maybe a paintjob one day, interior is nice too. I have to fix the AC, but that's not a big deal till summertime. Paid $1000, plus about $100 in general maintinance parts, $45 for an o2 sensor, and whatever the egr solnoid costs... Not to bad, considering the motor itself cost more than that.
Thanks for all the help, please comment on the code assumptions above if you have any.

 

I think a new engine deserves a new o2 sensor anyway, but I might hold off on the EGR til the code pops up. I would think it would have already happened if it was going to. I don't think you should expect to see any EGR action at idle. Then again I'd put a new EGR on a new motor also. Maybe that's just me. You did check the Vac diagram against your system?

 

I agree, hold off on the egr solenoid till/if the code comes back. I did just go buy a new o2 sensor. they looked up an 89, and brought me a 3 wire o2 with a black plug. since I already had pulled mine out, I saw it was a 4 wire white connector. They said that was for a 90, and pulled it out and it looked just like mine, so I bought the white 4 wire one for a 90. (The production date on my truck is 6/89.) They asked if it was a front or rear o2 also, and I only saw a front o2 sensor on mine, there wasn't one after the cat. Does that all sound right? Just checking...
Thanks again!!!
Rob

 

yep sounds right...the 6/89 date is a 90...

 

I was having computer problems and missed the fun. I also thought the deep notch was the timing mark when I first tried to time my truck, but found the smaller notch. '95 and before have one oxygen sensor.

 

your hard starting might be your ignition control module. these can be tested at your local parts store.

 

I have the same truck except manual trans. Where is the harness to get the codes. I looked driver side engine compartment, driver side interior, I can't find the "house-shaped" panel.

 

it is on the drivers side on top of the fire wall. you should see some relays and it is at the end.