OBD1:http://www.extreme-check-engine-ligh...%20Decoder.htm

 

A back pressure condition cause by a clogged Cat which impedes proper valve closure, will cause this poor starting behavior when the engine is hot. It will mimic an improper base time set. A simple method to rule this out is when the condition presents itself, remove the o2 sensor which will relieve any back pressure condition and with to sensor out, then attempt to start. You may be surprised! The cause is a diet of fuel above 87 octane, Ethenol, and/or any number of Snake Oils available at parts stores. Or any combination. The engine is new, but the Cat is the original, correct? I went thru 2 starters & 1 battery before figuring this out!

 

I let the truck get to operating temp, and tried to restart and l got the hard start issue. So I pulled out the o2 sensor, and still had the same issue. So I don't think it's a clogged cat. I checked vacuum, and I'm getting 22-23in HG of vacuum which is pretty good. If it was a clogged cat backpressure would built up and vacuum would drop, correct?

I checked EGR solnoid voltage with key on and had 4.99 volts. Tried to check the sensor ohms, but the terminal faces down, and couldn't really get a good probe on it to check, will have to remove the egr to see. I also checked voltage output of the o2 sensor, I warmed the truck up and disconnected the o2 sensor, and got no voltage from any of the terminals, I checked all because I wasn't sure which was which. So the o2 sensor is shot right? Would a bad o2 sensor cause the code 33 (EGR valve not opening)
So I cleared the codes, and took it for a 20 mile drive without the o2 sensor. CE light came on, and went home to check them. This time I only got code 33 and 41 koeo, and running (no 84 or 87) All the other times I cleared codes and rechecked, all 4 codes poped up within a few miles, not sure why 2 didn't this time.
As far as the hard start issue, it still feels like a power flow issue still, so I added an additional ground from the neg battery term to an engine bolt where the air pump braket attaches by the alternator. Let the engine reach op temp, and tried again. It started hot 4 times in a row, with a lot less grrr. I'm guessing the ground from the neg term to the starter/engine bolt is probably filled with green corrosion.
I'll have to drive it around for a bit to make sure the starting issue has cleared up completely. And I need an o2 sensor I'm pretty sure. I may still have to figure out the EGR code, and the code 87 fuel pump circuit failure may come back with more driving too.
Kinda baffles me that the truck has a bad o2 sensor, questionable EGR operation, and maybe a fuel pump circuit fault, and still runs like a champ...
knock on wood... maybe I shouldn't question it... I want it to run at it's best though.

 

Lets try to get rid of the EGR problem. At operating temp, have someone hold the accelerator at 2500 rpm (or in the ballpark if you don't have a tach.) Pull the Vac hose off the EGR valve. If there is good suction at the hose, the EGR valve is the problem (ruptured internal diaphragm or the pinion seat is stuck or blockage at the mounting port-ways of the air intake manifold &/or internally in the valve itself. Poor or no vac at the hose would strongly imply a bad EGR solenoid, since your showing power at the connection. In rereading your post I'm starting to wonder if you have your parts straight. The wires that connect to the top of the EGR valve go to the EGR valve Position sensor. The opposite end of the vac hose feeding the EGR valve goes to the EGR valve solenoid. On my 302, that is on the opposite side of the air intake manifold. This is correct. Are we in agreement, or were you mistaken about what is what? Not hard to do when your first introduced to all this stuff. Also, Here's a link re: 02's http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=31

 

OK, checked what you said. With truck warmed up, vacuum gauge on the line into the EGR, throttle up, and I read no vacuum at all. (I can apply vacuum to the EGR itself and see the pintle/diaghram moving)
The piece that line comes from is the EGR solnoid, the vac line below it is supposed to have constant vacuum correct? it doesn't have any. I traced the line behind the engine over to the passenger side and it goes to an upright metal can. (looks like a juicy juice can) That can has 2 vacuum lines one coming from the vacuum tree, and it has vacuum there, but there is no vacuum coming from the other line which goes to the solnoid.

So it looks like the EGR itself operates, the solnoid very well might if it had vacuum, so what is that can? Should the EGR solnoid be hooked up there? And shouldn't it be supplying a constant vacuum to the EGR solnoid? Can I hook that line up to the vac tree directly, or is that can necessary and needs to be replaced?
Good news is, with the extra ground line, the truck starts up when hot with no hesitation so far...

 

I removed the can, there are no leaks or rusted holes in it, and feels like there is some type of one way diaghram in it. If i apply vacuum to the port coming from the tree, there is no vacuum at the other port. if I apply vacuum to the port going to the solnoid it suck through the other port. If the EGR solnoid is supposed to have constant vacuum, then it seems like the lines are on the can backwards...?

 

The vacuum diagrahm labels the can as VRESER, which I am assuming is Vacuum Reservoir. The same line from the reservoir can to the EGR solnoid applies vacuum to the TAB also, so it isn't getting vacuum either. All vacuum seem to be routed correctly according to the vacuum diagrahm under hood label. But it does not tell me which port is which on the reservoir can. Can anyone tell me if these lines are reversed? I guess I could just switch them and check for EGR operation... It's possible they got mixed up in the engine swap...

 

I switched the vacuum lines, cleared the codes, and took it for another 20 mile drive. (I left the o2 sensor unplugged so I'd know when the CE light came on) Went home, checked codes.
I got a 1 long pause, 1, long pause, 1, long pause, 1, long pause, then 41 twice. No code 33.
tried koeo again, and got 1...1...1...1...41,41.
Engine running codes were 41, and 52. I did check to see if the power steering pressure switch was plugged in, and it was. But there is a power steering leak, so maybe thats why. I've been adding lucas power steering stop leak, and it has slowed, but not stopped.
But no code 33 yet. Started it up, checked for vacuum at the egr vacuum line and had 10 hg if I throttled it up, needle was jumpy though, it was not a smooth sweep. When revving engine, I could not see any movement in the EGR diaghram. So I'm not sure if the egr and solenoid are working properly or not yet, but there is some vacuum, and no code...yet.

 

At 2500 rpm, the EGR selinoid should be open and supplying the EGR w/ all kinds of vac. This was at oper.temp? At idle there should be less than 1.0 in.Hg.. This would be a good time to check your Vac connections against the under hood permanent label Vacuum diagram. It's supposed to be on the air filter housing & matches the color coding of the hose & tubes. Because this was a recent swap, % wise a mis-routing would be a pretty good bet especially if these conditions were not present w/ the pre-swapped engine. More so than component failure as a result of transfer. I would still check the Base Timing. It doesn't relate specifically to the EGR situation, but could influence the hard, warm start condition & would provide another known variable.

 

So KOEO shows no active codes, #41 stored in continuous memory. KOER shows #41 active, #52 would reasonably be thought to be the P/S pressure leak. At this point, you need to clear your continuous memory, in fact clear the KAM (Kept Adaptive Memory) also. Disconnect the battery for at least 5 minutes. Have it at operating temp first. Then start & let idle for 2 mins./shut off for 1 min./restart for 2mins., idling w/ engine in gear w/ foot on brake/ shut off again for 1 min. This should be done anytime the KAM has been cleared. Then go for a drive of about 10 miles at varying rpm's. This all would be after you checked your Vac layout against the diagram. Then rescan. The KOEO should always be performed first prior to the KOER. Note: My code reader manual states the base timing should be checked prior to KOER. No explanation given. Take it for what its worth. It should be 10BTDC.