I let the engine warm up, then I disconnected the single spout line to the harness plugged in the dis. cap. painted a white line on the notch in the crank balancer, put timing light inductive pu on plug wire #1 closest to the front of vehicle, started. Could not see timing mark, flashed gun on underside of the truck and the timing mark is dead opposite of the timing marks on the under side of the vehicle. Not sure why, I can't imagine the timing is that far off and the truck still runs great. Something else must be the reason... maybe balancer was put on 180 degrees off when engine was installed?
As far as the truck not starting when hot, it has started hot at least 15 times in a row since I added the -bat to engine ground, warmed up in the driveway, and taken for long rides, and still starts.
For EGR problem, earlier today, I switched the vacuum lines on the vacuum resevoir, I now get 22 HG of vacuum into the egr solnoid, but no vacuum going to egr at idle, and only 8-10hg sparatically with a good rev.
I will clear the codes as you said, and check again.
It seems the egr solenoid is not giving the egr enough vacuum to open, because if I manually apply vacuum the erg opens smoothly.
No clue why the timing mark is so far off. But engine idles smooth, and runs really good, no knocking, no shimmying, smooth throttle, etc...
off to clear the codes and take for a ride....

 

the reason for the KAM clearing is because after a sensor has provided an out of range output continuously for so many consecutive cycles, the computer ignores it's input, substitutes it's own fixed generic setting and goes along it's merry way. This reintroduces all sensor input w/the assumption that their output in in fact credible & accurate. It will take 30 or 40 continuous out of range cycle recordings before that sensor is locked out again. So essentially you are starting w/ a clean slate. The little tap dance after clearing the KAM is to Reestablish Idle behavior. I don't remember if you mentioned if you were MAP or MAF?

 

Damn! It implies that TDC was established w/ the #1 cylinder on the exhaust stroke, rather than the compression stroke. There are two strokes per single engine cycle. Or I would prefer to think the balancer was ***-backwards. No, I think the sync would still be on top w/ the hash marks on the opposing side. I'm starting to get a headache, how about you? Maybe it is *** backwards. Otherwise, valve operation would be juxtaposed. Spark is fired on both strokes! Damn! Where it everybody. This is one of those "It takes a village" moments. So from the bottom attempt, the light flashed, but opposite the hash marks which were at that time, up top? Or the hashes were also at the bottom? I'm going to be out of here for a couple hours, Ill check your thread when I return.

 

OK, I cleared the codes like you said. Warm engine, then disconnect battery 5 minutes, reconnect and idle for 2 minutes, shut down for 1 minute, restart for 2 minutes in gear with foot on brake, shut down for 1 more minute, then drove 10 miles.
Codes were as follows:
KOEO
1..1....1..1....1........41..41
running codes:
41..52..41..52

It is MAP

BTW, I filled up the tank before all this testing, have driven 90 miles, and is just under 3/4 of a tank. MPG can't be too bad. If the timing was set 180 off, wouldn't it be running horrible and get really bad milage? I set the timing 180 off on my monte once and it ran like I pulled 2 plug wires off...

 

Oh your timing question:
I tried checking the timing and couldn't see a mark at all. So I painted where the notch in the balancer was with white paint. Checked again, couldn't see the timing mark at all still, left timing light hooked up and got underneath, let it flash up from underneath the truck, and the painted timing mark was there. If you look at the balancer from the front of the truck, the timing guide marks are at 1:00, but the painted mark was at 7:00 when #1 plug was firing.
I'd like to think the balancer was on 180 off, haven't had one off in a while so not sure if that's even possible, is there a notch in the crank shaft so the balancer can only go on one way?
At any rate, I'd think the truck would be running like a dog if it was set to the exhaust stroke instead, but it runs great. Surprisingly enough...

 

Ya, I think the balancer is keyed. So then the distributor could have been set in 180 off. Bring the #1 to top on the compression stroke / check it against the hash 0 mark & the position of the rotor to the fireing cylinder. You need to get that out of the way. Gotta go! I'll check back.

 

I got the number 1 plug out, manually turning the crank, I can tell when the straw is at the top of the exhaust turn and when it's at the top of the compression turn. But the timing mark on the balancer is always at the bottom like 6-7:00 oclock, when I get the piston to TDC. (also I think I was mistaken on the place where you read the timing, while under there I cleaned the "teeth" and saw the degree marks, which is actually about 11:00 at 0 degrees.) I can't figure out why whenever the piston gets to TDC the balancer timing mark is so far away from the teeth that measure the degrees, any suggestions?

 

I must be looking at the wrong mark. There is no way, the balancer is off from the piston being TDC. I was going by a small square notched out piece from the balancer, there must be a line scribed on there somewhere closer to 0 degrees... I will get a good light and look in a little bit. Can anyone tell me off hand if the notch is or isn't the right mark, or if there is definately a line somewhere on the balancer?

 

I called in the big guns!Shouldn't take too long if their not busy.

 

http://s903.photobucket.com/albums/ac240/ymeski56/ 0=TDC