Thanks for the help guys.. it's almostlike the timing isn't advancing I dunno

 

That is exactly what is happening. It has nothing to do with the EGR. The spark out ( spout) circuit sends the timing information to the ecu. Without it the timing remains at base (10* btdc if set correctly). There is a grey jumper in the wiring harness that hangs just below the distributor. This is the spout connector. You remove it to forces the engine to base timing to set it. First make sure its there. If there is a connection with nothing plugged in that's your problem. Next check your timing with the spout removed. Then plug it back in and bring the engine up to 2k. You should see the timing change to around 20*. If not you have a problem. Test the spout wires for voltage and continuity. You will want a wiring diagram and a multi meter. You can probably find the diagram with a Google search but I recommend picking up a shop manual. It will walk you through the diagnosis step by step. All you need to do is look up the code in the diagnosis section.
And just to make my point one more time, notice that all the people posting to delete the EGR because it is useless on these trucks haven't bothered to read your symptoms or diagnosis so far. They simply don't understand what it is or how it works so they take it off. The EGR eliminates NOx, reduces knocking, lowers combustion temps, and increases mpg. Also without it working properly you can't pass smog and on computer controlled vehicles the engine won't perform properly.

 

Another thing to consider, make sure the EGR valve is the right part number. I bought an EGR valve once and it was for the 4.9. It fit on my truck, but I had issues until I tracked it down as the culprit.

For all of the parts you've replaced, you might want to do some parts numbers matching on the manufacturer's website.

 

Why would the EGR set a spout code?

 

My 4.9 Ran like sh*t until I coughed up for a new Ford EGR! It took an old school mechanic to point out that the off-brand EGR was my issue...

 

Got my 212 fixed by swapping a black icm for the grey one... still got the miss from 800 to 1500 rpm unless the egr system is dissabled... bout to drive me crazy

 

OK now you need to diagnose the miss. I would start with a vacuums test on the system. There are several posts on here telling you how to use a vacuum gauge. Also che k that the EGR is functioning properly ( since we're looking at it anyway). Apply vacuum with a hand pump and make sure the plunger moves. Make sure it holds vacuum. Test the solenoid and all the vacuum lines. Check for blocked EGR flow. Also test your TPS and IAC systems. You may have posted this already but what do you do to deactivate the EGR that is fixing the miss? Do you just pull the vacuum line? If so do you plug the line or leave it open? Did you reset your base timing after replacing the part?

 

Well I can unhook the the evr and it runs better or pull vac line to the egr and plug it with the same results ... and no I didn't recheck the timing afterwards.. I will do that in the am

 

Kind of sounds like its opening when it shouldn't

 

I bought a used 97 F-150 that kept throwing the egr code. Thought about changing the EGR and both valves. Upon looking on the forums I found one that states he parts are not bad, the intake port is clogged. I took off upper part of intake to find it clogged an inch deep with carbon. I whittled it out with a screwdriver and washed up with Total Awesome. Re-installed and not a problem since. Zero cost for a fix, just a little time. Take a look & Good Luck.