Yeah I forgot to mention how many gallons I used. It was 185 miles on 12.17 US Gallons. I do not know how large the fuel tank is. My truck only has a door in the rear I believe. So no duel tanks. The fuel gauge does work, but it goes down quick. Twice it has been on empty, and when I refill I only get about 12 gallons. I guess this is just one of those vehicles that sits on E for a hundred miles.

So 15MPG on a 5.8L isn't too bad?
What is the max fuel capacity of this truck?

I was looking for a sticky that has all the stock specs that came with these trucks, but could not find one.


Matt|ttaM

 

Well I just got the afore mentioned code scanner. I pulled the codes with that, and I get the dreaded code 10! The book that came with it states that cylinder 1 is not contributing. It also reports 111, which is supposedly All OKAY.

So this code 10 really worries me. I don't have the tools to do a compression check this weekend. Is it okay to drive it like this? Does this mean the piston rings are toast? Does this always mean "time for engine rebuild"? Or can it sometimes be something easy like a defective spark plug or something??

Matt|ttaM

 

Read: https://www.f150forum.com/f10/heads-...05/#post623219

You're referring to the Cylinder Balance test. This test only applicable if your engine is SEFI (Sequential electronic fired ignition). This is where each injector is triggered individually.

As opposed to EFI (Electronic fired ignition), where the injectors are left/ right bank fired. 80% of OBD1's are EFI. In which case it (10) is only a scan "separator code".

Do the KOEO first/ which will give us any continuous memory codes also, first. KOER results are not reliable until the KOEO's are dealt w/ first.

Is your engine MAP or MAF?

 

OKAY I RTFM on the Ford ODB1 Code Reader. I think I figured out what I was doing wrong. The first test I did was the Key On Engine Off KOEO. This gave me code 332, and the book says EGR Insufficient Flow.

Next I did the Key On Engine Running KOER test. The manual says to turn the steering wheel and press the brake pedal then press the accelerator to WOT. I did all this but apparently not at the right time because I got codes that say I didn't. I did get code 311; "Thermactor air system/ fault during engine run self-test." The other two codes are 536 and 538 stating that I did not press the brake and push the gas.

So:
KOEO= 332

KOER= 311,538,536

So my questions are these:

What can I do about the EGR? Is it the long shaft that leads to the manifold what needs to be unclogged? I tried taking this part off before, with no luck. How do I remove it?

Second, wtf is a thermactor? How do I fix this?

I have to get the truck emissions inspected soon, and will need these codes to be gone.

I believe the engine is MAP. It has the 5.8 EFI, and has 2 separate tubes going from the air cleaner to the plentium.

Thanks in advance!

Matt|ttaM

 

First you need to deal with your EGR valve. Do not worry about those other codes yet. Carefully pull the vacuum tube off the EGR valve. You should have no vacuum at idle. Have someone rev the engine and see if you get any vacuum. Should get some around 2k quite a bit actually.

Do that and get back to us with the results.

 

Thanks for the tip. I will try that first thing in the morning.

Matt|ttaM

 

The thermactor is the smog pump. The thermactor and EGR are controlled by solenoids all grouped together near the valve cover. I've seen some trucks with one thermactor solenoid and some with two, so there will be either two or three solenoids. Each solenoid has vacuum in and controls its related component by allowing vacuum out. I think you probably lost vacuum to all the solenoids.

 

You most likely have two Thermactor Solenoids (TAB/TAD) & the EGR regulator just ahead of them. Check all Vac & Electrical connections & follow Vac tubes to their intended destinations.

 

What symptoms should I look for? It does stall a lot. Especially when warm. So start the truck drive a bit stop it,then start it again, pop it into Reverse and it stalls. Some times it will die twice before working again.

 

Start w/:
You most likely have two Thermactor Solenoids (TAB/TAD) & the EGR regulator just ahead of them. Check all Vac & Electrical connections & follow Vac tubes to their intended destinations.