Okay I pulled the vacuum nipple off and I had the wife push the gas. It had some pull, but not much. It defiantly wasn't pulling my skin through the hose. So next I pulled the main EGR valve off the engine, and started playing with it. The diafram seems to be in order,but the pipe does seem to be restricted. I am not sure how much I blew on it, and it didn't do jack. When I sucked on the nipple it pulled on the spring.

So should I be focusing on the control solenoids or does it sound like my EGR valve is working?

I started the engine with no EGR and it sounded like a tractor! The pipe is not clogged and had plenty of exhaust coming out of it.

 

Now when you say check all the vac and electrical connections, do I need to check voltages? Since they plug into the ECU, then if the key is in, should it have 5V? Is there a standard polarity? Say the pin on the left is ground and the right is to the ECU?

 

Dup

 

...and there lies the rub. Being specific purpose solenoids, they will only show power when called on to function. You should show Vac to supply side of solenoid all the times, as the solenoid is essentially a valve for that Vac flow. In this case, I believe they are all "normally closed" (no Vac flow) until actuated.

Read about your EGR regulator: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=43

 

EGR's are normally closed valve. Should be no flow unless actuated. Wether you suck or blow threw the Vac connection, the diaphragm should not leak air once inflated or deflated. Suction to the Vac will actuate as spring compresses.

If diaphragm not compromised & Valve seats correctly stopping all flow when in closed position, it's good. It's a pretty bulletproof component, but clean it & the mount port way on the manifold while you have it off.

 

Okay, I cleaned the EGR the port to the intake manifold, pulled the EGR Solenoid and cleaned the inside of that too, left the battery off for 45 min, and I still get the same codes.

I don't know what else to try. I was thinking Seafoam, but would like a definitive fix before I try that.

 

Your KOEO active codes are: ??

Your Continuous memory codes are: ??

 

KOEO is 332

KOER is 311, 538, 632, 116, and 60.

I think the 116 is new. I didn't warm up the car before testing. And I still have yet to figure out how and when to press the brake, gas, turn the wheel, and press the OD switch. I guess that is why there is a wire for this scanner to reach the driver's seat.

 

332 should be either a Continuous Memory, or a KOER.


Continuous memories are shown after the active KOEO's or if no active KOEO's you'll see an 11 or 111. then Continuous memories. If no C/M's, you'll see 11 or 111 again.

 

Does it really matter when it is showing me these codes? Isn't the problem that it is showing these codes?