Considering rebuilding my engine in the spring with tax return. Truck is a 94 with 220,000 miles. Was told that if I put a stroker kit in it I could use the same computer. Is this true? Would it have to be remapped? And will there be a big benifit to doing this? I'm not concerned with top end speed. I just use the truck to pull the boat on the weekends. So low end would be more useful. No major problems and nothing set in stone, but like the truck and throwing the idea around of freshing it up. Might go into the trans as well.

 

i dont know anything about doing the swap, but i've always heard of them being durable engines with a good increase in power. plus they sound mean as hell. i've also been told they dont really drop the gas mileage too bad

 

i would suggest a 327 stroker as opposed to the larger 347(? i think its 347, it's 34-something) i still am skeptical of them as the rods connect above the rings, causing oil consumption issues. but you will have much more low end torque due to the longer stroke. as well as more hp due to having more cubes. relatively cheap too if you are having the engine rebuilt anyway.

 

as for the computer i'm not sure. depends if you stay within the fuel map already on the computer or not, hopefully dr. bowtie will chime in with his vast knowledge on this subject haha.

 

If your truck is MAF then it should take to the changes well. I also would like to hear what the Doc says though.

 

^^^^ haha....

when going for a rebuild I ALWAYS opt for a stroker where I can...

You get a good torque gain at a lower RPM where you need it and at most times the same mpg for the swap....

as long as you dont go wild on the swap yes you can use the same ECM and same maps with the stock cams although you might need to swap to bigger injectors....

for a 347 you could use 351 injectors and thats a cheap swap and even then you can lower fuel pressure a tad and be right in the zone....

on the bigger strokers the oil ring are in the rod pin holes but there are spacers to cover the area and there is NO oil control issues.... who ever had them did something wrong....

done alot of strokers with long rods and had NO issue at all...

I mainly do it for cost. The Eagle kits are cheap compared to getting the factory stuff reconditioned.. Most of the time you'll be close in cost so the stroker only makes sense.

You can get and Eagle kit for 700.00 or a tad more that comes with a crank, rods, pistons and all rings and bearings. Thats a pretty sweet deal.

I recommend it very much for towing/pulling. you gain extra torque down low just due to the extra stroke. That alone brings the power curve lower. where as a short stroke must use RPM to get where it needs to go....

I say do it...I do

http://www.eaglerod.com/index.php?op...d=34&Itemid=41

prices are 200.00 higher direct from Eagle...but you can get them elsewhere....

I would call Jegs or Summit.... or even find a wholesale supplier like Motorstate and get a walk in quote...

 

I'm sure the Dr will give the skinny on it. I've don't a little research but it's all over the place. Some places say you can buy the kit and install and your good to go, after some clearence mods to the block, others say that the kits are unbalanced and need to be balanced at a machine shop, haven't found anything on whether or not electronics, injectors, or other top end pieces need to be changed out.

 

ha you posted all that while I was typing and answered most of the questions in my previous post. What about block mods and balancing. Is the kit gonna come balanced or will I still have to have some machine work done. and as far as the clearence mods, is that something I can do at home or sent to a machine shop.

 

all the electronics are fine....the fuel is the only worry and like I said you can use cheap 351 injectors if need be....

For myself I always have the recip balanced anyways.... just good practice to do...

The pistons in the kit are heavier than I like but are virtually bullet proof for everyday stuff....

If you really want to make a good running engine then I strongly suggest checking into the latest TrickFlow head....there are a ton of gains in those heads alone and the stroker bottom will really make those heads shine over the stock heads which are pretty restrictive...

as long as you stick with the stock roller cam the ECM will be happy...no mods needed there other than fuel...

If you went with the ESP crank and rods and light pistons the fuel map may be good with slight tweaking....heavier stuff might require more fuel...doesnt mean mpg will stuff as they stand a good chance of staying the same or very close to it.

I usually try to run as much compression as i can get by with....the more you can run the better mpgs will be as long as you stay out of the gas...

it will really make a HUGE difference in the way a truck runs....

I have done many GM 350 to 383 conversions with nothing done to the ECM or fuel....just stroke it and go....

in Fords I prefer the 347 and 408 swaps in the 302 and 351 engines....

you only need to notch the block and check cam clearance...

Longer rods need a Small Base Circle cam so the big end of the rod clears the cam lobes....

you can search for block mods for 347 strokers and find it...it is something you can do yourself but you MUST be careful... grinding the notches too deep ends you into the water jacket...

I mock them up and do them with .020 clearance....

 

thanks, when the time comes and I decide to do this I'm sure I'll have more questions.