Maybe a Pressure China or USA would have been a better choice! I have heard that some people have used tire gauges that they weren't particularly fond of, but I'm not sure as to accuracy.

Anyway, maybe a Noid light to see it injectors are pulsing would help.
http://www.noidlight.com/

Sounds more "Fuel" than Vacuum , but if you know of any leaks or disconnected hoses, by all means deal w/ em.

If you ground the fuel pump test lead on your OBD1 test connection, do you hear the fuel pump come on?

 

Bought a new gauge today. 26 PSI static or while cranking

 

Here is what you should have on fuel PSI:

Key On Engine Off - 35-45 psi

Key On Engine Running - 27-37 psi

Engine Running Vac Hose Disconnected From Pressure Regulator - 40-45 psi

Also, fuel pressure needs to remain a minimum of 30 psi for 30-45 seconds after turning engine off.

 

Have you replaced your fuel filter, if so... then you're talking weak high pressure pump.

 

Did the test for Key On Engine Off and got 40.5 PSI. This was doing the test according to ALLData (jumpering the FP terminal at the self test to ground). I was actually suprised. I did replace the fuel filter. When I first bought the truck, the owner had a new one in the seat that he had planned on putting in but didn't get to it. I put it in, but I may put in a new one anyway. The pressure holds good for a long time after shutting of the key (at about 40 PSI for over 30 seconds and still up there after a day).

 

Well, back to the Noid tester I mentioned previously to check injector pulse. You're running out of things that would keep gas from getting to the cylinders.

The ECU controls injector trigger by providing a ground path to each injector at the appointed moment.

They are normally hot w/ key on, waiting to be triggered (open) by the ground path when provided. Wondering if the are being energized in the first place?

 

sounds like your ignition module and possibly your entire distributor is bad. If i were you id just buy a whole new complete distributor. and spark plugs and wires just to be safe. the old ones are bound to be dirty.

 

Ok. I'll try the noid light but I'm not going to have that kind of time for another week or two. I'm not sure if this matters, but I can run the truck with no starter fluid as long as I'm pumping the accelerator pedal. It revs up then almost dies, then repeats. It will backfire occassionally while doing this. As far as the distributor goes, I've replaced the TFI and the stator and the cap and rotor so effectively it is a new distributor. The truck runs almost nicely as long as I am squirting starting fluid in the intake. I agree, I'm running out of things. I'll keep the pressure guage on and run the motor on starting fluid to see if maybe the pressure is dropping there.
Thanks again everyone

Bill

 

Well I have a bunch of parts if u need any and I'm looking for a wrk bed if u come across another one

 

What are you looking for in the work bed? I just used an app on my android to notify when anyone in any of three areas posted a utility bed. Ill reactivate the search and notify you if you'll let me know price range and areas your willing to go to get it. I saw a lot if them in the $400 to $600 range and a few nice ones above $2000. I appreciate the parts offer. I'll let you know if I can identify the problem area.
Thanks