I recently purchased an 88 f150 with the 351 efi, auto, 2wd. It has a service bed on it which is what the guy was really selling and throwing in the truck for free. The PO said the truck ran but had an idle problem before he parked it. It sat for 2 years before I bought it. I drained the tank and put in a new fuel filter, charged the battery, sprayed starting fluid in the tb and it fired up. As long as I shot fluid into the Tb it would run. I seafoamed the tank and eventually got it to run without the starter fluid. I would have to pump the accelerator and it would Rev up, start to die, then Rev up again. It also backfired frequently. I assumed the injectors were clogged so following the outstanding instructions on this site I cleaned and tested the injectors, put new screens & o-rings on them, and cleaned the throttle body and upper Plenum. When I put everything back together and tried to start it, it would crank, but no attention to fire, even with starting fluid. I pulled a plug and it looked OK, but I got no spark. Then I got a known good plug and tried but no spark. I connected the plug directly to the output of the coil and got no joy. I have a chilton's for this truck, but the ignition text section is very convoluted due to many different ignition systems covered. I've read quite a few threads here and a couple of other places dealing with no spark issues, but I started getting confused over all the different issues and solutions / tests and which parts of which ones pertained to my problem/equipment. I did read codes when I first started doing this and they pointed to a maf sensor problem. I don't have the money to throw parts at it nor big chunks of time so if you make a suggestion it will probably take me a few days to get back with the results unless its something I've already checked. My mechanical abilities are fairly good, but mostly pre-computer (funny because I'm also a computer geek). Any help would be appreciated.

 

OK. I tested the TFI and it tested good. I tried to test the stator (or PIP per some other argument somewhere), but my Chilton's gives this for the test procedure after removing the dist. and the TFI:
"4. Measure the resistance of the stator assembly, using an ohmmeter. If the ohmmeter reading is 800-975 ohms, the stator is okay, but the TFI module must be replaced. If the ohmmeter reading is less than 800 ohms or more than 975 ohms; the TFI module is okay, but the stator module must be replaced."

Fine. How do you measure the resistance of the "stator assembly"??? I have the 3 plugs that the TFI plugs into and there are 3 wires in the inside of the dist. that run to the other part of the stator assembly.

 

replace TFI, cap, plugs, coil, and wires.

sounds like you need a fuel pump too!

you're on the right track though

 

Not sure if this is what your talking about:

The PIP signal is created in the Hall Effect and Stator assembly and indicates crankshaft position and engine RPM. The PIP signal is fed to both the TFI module and the ECU. So if the TFI tests ok, the PIP is the next in line upstream.

However, it is strongly recommended on set ups where the TFI is mounted on the distributor rather than remotely, that the TFI be replaced at the same time. Sharing the same power & ground circuit, when one goes, the other is usually not far behind.
PIp's run between approx. $12-$30. Some just say "F**k it, & just replace the Distributor which saves a bit of time & labor.

 

I'm not sure what the picture is, but the narrative sounds right. I did just say f&$k it and bought the stator assembly, rotor, and cap. I would have gone for the whole distributer, but the parts houses that are open at 10pn in Phoenix didn't have one with the tfi. On hind sight I should have ordered it. I got the old stator out without any problems, but am having a very difficult time getting the holes to line back up for the roll pins. And now I'm thinking the tfi will probably go bad soon anyway.

 

I'll fix the diagram, that's the wrong one. Gimme a few minutes. in the meantime, here's what you have to look forward to, to replace the PIP (as opposed to tossing in a complete distributor).

Removal
Do not attempt to replace stator without an arbor press. (Probably get around that)

Remove distributor. Remove rotor, then the TFI module.
If distributor uses push on type rotor, remove two retaining screws holding armature, then the armature. Hold gear to loosen armature screws, do not hold armature.
Mark stator, armature, gear and collar with felt tip pen to aid in reassembly.
Remove and discard pins in gear and collar if equipped.
Invert distributor and place in Axle Bearing Seal Plate and press off gear using Bearing Removal Tool.
Deburr and polish shaft with emery paper and wipe clean so that shaft slides out freely from distributor base.
Remove shaft assembly, then the thrust washer from shaft. Next remove octane rod.
Remove stator assembly screws, then the stator assembly from top of bowl.
Inspect base bushing for wear of signs of excess heat concentration, replace distributor assembly if damaged.
Inspect base O-ring for cuts or damage and replace as necessary.
Inspect base for cracks and wear, replace distributor assembly if damage is found.

Installation
Place stator assembly over bushing and press down to seat.
Place stator connector in position, tab should fit in notch on base with fastening eyelets aligned with screw holes.
Install stator screws and Torque to 15-35 inch lbs. Next install octane rod.
Install thrust washer on top of bushing, then apply lubricant to distributor shaft below armature. Do not over lubricate.
Insert shaft through base bushing, then place collar, if equipped, over shaft and line up mark on armature and collar to aid alignment with original drill hole. Use a suitable drift punch to assure proper alignment.
Drill holes through shaft and collar should align on both sides of shaft. If holes do not align, collar may be 180 degrees out of alignment on shaft. Rotate collar on shaft one half rotation, then check.
Insert new roll pin through collar and shaft, pin should be flush with both sides of collar when seated.
If distributor uses push on type rotor, place a 1/2 inch deep well socket over shaft, invert and place on arbor plate.
If distributor uses screw down type rotor, invert and place on arbor plate.
Place distributor gear on shaft and line up marks on armature and gear. Hole in shaft and gear must line up as accurately as possible to assure ease of roll pin insertion.
Place a 5/8 inch deep well socket over shaft and gear, then press gear to align with original drill hole.
If gear holes do not align, gear must be removed and repressed on. Drift punch will not align holes, as in collar, holes should align.
Insert new roll pin through gear and shaft, pin should extrude evenly on both sides.
Install armature, if removed, and Torque screws to 25-35 inch lbs.
Install TFI module, rotor, then distributor.

 

 

Sorry I didn't get to you sooner. I missed your thread initially & caught it after it was half way down the 2nd thread page.

I have an 87', so I try to make an extra effort to catch the pre 90's, as I have a lot of diagrams/info for em.

In the future, you're welcome to get my attention by sending a private message to me w/ a link to your thread post.

 

Thanks for all the info. That probably would have swayed my decision to get just the stator. As I said in my previous post I didn't have any problems with disassembling the dist. But the lube (wd-40) I used wiped out my alignment marks. I thought it was really strange that the roll pin hole didn't seem to line up on both sides, but I thought it must just be my failing vision. Now it appears I actually have it 180 off. Where did this write-up come from? I know it wasn't a Chiltons. Thanks again and I probably will be looking for more help soon.

 

My online "Alldata" subscription for my 87' 302.

This tool it worth a lot more than it's $22.77 price tag: http://www.handsontools.com/Equus-In...ol_p_5574.html
(Cable is optional, not required)