Multiple distributor removal + backfire + sputter + miss = Check for TDC #1 Cyl. on compression stroke

 

I agree. Checked it today, but it was dead on. I'm not having much luck draining the tank. Only got about a quart out and I know I put about 4 gallons in. Guess I'm pulling the tank. I'm also going to check spark at each plug and compression just for giggles. Hopefully will get all that done tomorrow on my day off.

 

I found a Ford Technical Service Bulletin that might help you out with getting the gas out the the tank without running the motor. I would unhook the fuel line under the truck and run the pumps following this service bulletin to empty the tank.


Article No. 87-11-15 FUEL PUMP - ELECTRIC - NEW SERVICE PROCEDURE AND SHOP MANUAL REVISION

FORD: 1984-86 LTD 1984-87 ESCORT, EXP, MUSTANG, TEMPO, THUNDERBIRD, CROWN VICTORIA

LINCOLN-MERCURY:
1984-86 CAPRI, MARQUIS
1984-87 LYNX, TOPAZ, COUGAR, GRAND MARQUIS, MARK VII, CONTINENTAL, LINCOLN TOWN CAR

LIGHT TRUCK: 1984-87 E-SERIES, F-SERIES, RANGER, BRONCO II 1986-87 AEROSTAR

ISSUE:The present 1984-87 Car and Light Truck Shop Manuals, Section 24-35, have been revised to eliminate using a modified relay to operate the fuel pump during testing.

ACTION: When testing the electric fuel pump, use the following new service procedure to check the fuel flow/pressure.

1.Locate self-test connector, in engine compartment.

2.The self-test connector has a fuel pump terminal which must be used to operate the electric fuel pump with "Off".

3.Connect a jumper lead to the terminal, Figure 14.

4.Turn ignition switch to "Run" position.

5.Energize fuel pump, by grounding jumper lead from self-test connector, and check fuel pressure. If there is no pressure, be sure pump is receiving power. If necessary, correct any circuit fault.


CAUTION:
Only ground to fuel pump terminal, or damage may occur to the EEC IV processor.

 

My chiltons said to siphon from filler, so I pushed, shoved, twisted, and eventually got the hose into the tank. Then siphoned out about 4 to 5 gallons (about what I put in). I guess it was empty when I started. So then I pulled all of the plugs and checked each one for spark and did compression check too. Everything looked OK. Compression was around 110 to 120 in all cylinders. I pour another 4 gallons in the tank (fresh stuff) but didn't have time to try it out but I don't expect much. By the way, the code given is for the made air pressure if that is important.

 

Not a clue what that means! Need the #.

 

22 & 13
Sorry about the cryptic narrative. I apparently typoed map and my droid corrected it to made. I was trying to say MAP (manifold Absolute Pressure? ???)

 

Did you do a KOEO (key on engine off) scan first?

 

Yes. Codes were 22 and 13. The 13 code was also in the memory section. These were the codes when I started all this. I re-scanned after getting spark again but codes were the same. I only disconnected the battery for about a minute during this process.

 

Do you still have the manual to your scanner? If you diid I might refer you to a particular page on occasion.

Anyway, 13 is denoted as a KOER (R) code, not a O or C. But I've seen stranger things I Guess. It is important to deal w/ KOEO before moveing to the Koer's. But your engine wont start at the moment anyway , correct?

22 is MAP out of range. Make sure it's connected , both Vacuum & electrical. If it is, for the heck of it, disconnect it & see if that has any effect on the situation.

Although I'm leaning towards fuel at the moment. A fuel pressure gauge (cheap date at Harbor Freight & tool) connected at the fuel rail to take readings would provide a lot of important info, potentially ruling out or flagging certain components. It's a pretty, "you really should have one" tool. Especially if there is a time factor involved, as it's a time saver.

W/ a "no start condition", but w/ spark & lack of a fuel pressure gauge, I'd spray some starter fluid into the air intake & see if there is a change in start behavior.

Appears a purchase of a MAP sensor is in your future, but not sure how much of that has to do w/ not starting.

Read about your MAP: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=27

 

The 13 was as memory code. Prior to the no spark condition, I was able to start it and run it off of starter fluid. I could also get it to start with fluid and keep it running as long as I was pumping the accelerator. It wouldn't run well. But it would Rev up nicely then almost die then Rev up again. During this time it would backfire occasionally. I bought a pressure Guatemala at the local O'rielys but the Ford adapter didn't work. It would show no pressure and I couldn't get any gas to come through the adapter, but as soon as I loosened the adapter fuel would spray all over from the valve. I tried today again as long as I spray Carb cleaner in the throttle body it'll run. I'm beginning to think maybe vacuum leak???