Your replacing the catalytic convertors before repairing the cam phaser issue is a bad move. They will not last long. You should be able to find a mechanic that will be able to replace the phasers, along with oil pump, chains, etc for less then 2 grand.


I know of two local shops here that are now locking out the old phasers along with new chains, guides, oil pump for around 1500, and that includes an HP tune to disable VCT system so you will not get a CEL.


Obviously the lockout is only cheaper because you are using your old cam phasers, no need for new if your just turning them into a glorified sprocket.


I agree with replacing lash adjusters and cam followers just as they are right there .. sort of like the oil pump.. to not change them is just dumb, though now you do have an added cost of the oil pan gasket.


Ratcheting steel tensioners definitely over the plastic crap they use now a days. Every part shop will tell you they wont work. They do and are around $40 for each side.


The 5.4 is a great motor, with a solid lower end, that are capable of 300k plus.


Mike

 

Hello, and Good Morning!
Thank you so much for taking the time to write up this post, and to all of those who have added information along the way!
I have a 2005 F-150 with 5.4, and I read in detail about 200 of these pages, and talked myself into doing the project.


I replaced the oil pump with the Mellings, put in new crank shaft sprocket, chains, guides, the metal racheting tensioners, vct solenoids, cam phasers and new gaskets.


The good: my diesel noise at startup is gone!!!


The bad: I didn't replace the roller followers or the (can't think of the name of them (hydrolic pin that tensions the rockers) so I still have a loud distinct ticking noise on passenger side when it warms up.
Also, I have the ABS and Brake light on, on the dash. I went to Oreilly's to see if they would clear the fault, but their tester was broken, I then went to Autozone, who wouldn't even hook up their tester, because of some law that someone somewhere got sued. I proceeded to Quick Lane (local Ford owned service dept) and they said they couldn't do it, but I could get it done next door. I went next door, and the fella there said that my ABS had to be programmed back into the computer.
Does this sound right to any of you?

 

Never heard of the ABS need to be reprogrammed back into the computer, I would disconnect the battery for about 30 minutes, turn the headlights on during that time to drain any possible residual electrical juice that may be still in the system while the battery is disconnected. After about 30 minutes, connect the battery, go through the Battery Relearn process (procedure is in the "Stop, look here" thread on the homepage of this year group). Basically, you start the vehicle, let it warm up to operating temps in Park, then shift to Drive, keep your foot on the brake for a couple minutes, then turn on your AC while in Drive for a few minutes, then go take your truck on about a 10 mile drive to basically tell your PCM how you drive and your stopping/take off procedures, sitting at a red light idling etc...
That hopefully takes care of your PCM reset. As far as the ticking noise, yea, probably should have done the lash adjusters and followers at the same time. Are you sure its not an exhaust manifold leak, they are a known issue on the passenger side and a pain in the ___ to change out. I also use 5W30 instead of 5W20 in my truck, it seems to like it better. Good luck and welcome to the forum.
Tom

 

Thank you for the Welcome!


I will try that relearn process. I did disconnect the battery and hold the terminals together last night for about 5 seconds, but it was like 10 degrees out so I couldn't stand outside longer. (I'm a bit of a wimp that way) I may also turn on the ignition to the run position for additional draining.


I compiled all of the timing parts that came to about 700.00 and that was all that I could scrape together at the time, I told myself if this didn't make it purr, I would do the lash adjusters and followers once I gather the money up again.


You asked about an exhaust manifold leak, I suppose it is possible, but it seems that I can pinpoint the noise at the top of the motor, almost sounds like its in the intake manifold. However I have had limited time to look further into it, on account of the cold temperatures and working extra hours.


Thank you so much for your time and information!


FWIW. I found that someone else had done the same project, and had the same results with his brake light and ABS light, in another forum, but he never came back to post if he found a fix for it. I was guessing since he had this issue, maybe someone on this thread had also had this experience, due to the volume of people reading and contributing to this thread.


Again Thank you so much!

 

How are the brakes now, do they stop the truck as normal? If not, maybe check to see if your brake booster hose came off the back of the intake manifold, that actually happens pretty frequently when doing this job especially if the manifold end of the hose does not have the clamp on it. If it is off, there is a thread somewhere on this site that I posted the pdf instructions on how to re-install the hose (it can be a pain as well). I bought my lash adjusters and followers on ebay, there is a full OEM kit that you can get for probably around $300 for all 24 of each. Good luck and make sure that you post pics of the truck and maybe a video of it running when you get it right.
Normally, if there is a exhaust manifold crack, the tick will be while cold and usually go away when warmed up so you probably just have noisy lash adjusters. FWIW, the fuel injectors tick kinda loud as well on this engine.
Tom

 

Yeah, brakes feel fine, I also felt back as far as I could on the brake booster hose to the manifold, and it seemed solid in place, however its snowing, so I didn't spend a lot of time chasing it, I would like to put a mirror or camera back there to see what I can see.

I went all the way through the battery reset instructions and all seems to be the same, except for a little smoother idle. (obviously with a bad lash adjuster, its going to stumble a little bit) I took it out and drove it about 20 miles and it seems to have a little lag, but I am not certain, I think that might have always been there, maybe I am just more conscience of it now.

My tick sounds mechanical, and is much louder and than it was prior to changing all the timing parts. I disconnected the VCT solenoid on the passenger side, and it sounded exactly the same. I put in new ones, it seems that I have read a lot about people ending up with a bad one or set. I may try to swap in my old ones, one at a time and see if there are any differences.

the lights are sill on on the dash (brake and ABS)

I don't know if this helps, but when I turn the ignition to on, the normal lights come on, on the dash, then they all go out, when it starts, the brake lights are off, but within a second, they come on, at the same time.

Thank you so much for the help! I would like to see that PDF you are referring to, can you point me in the direction so that I can review it?

 

Here you go, it should be attached to this message. One more little thing with your brake light, I had another truck a few years ago with the brake light on but had no issues with the brakes, turns out that someone had engaged the parking brake and when releasing it, the brake lever did not come back up all the way. I pulled the parking brake release handle and kinda pulled up on the part that my foot would push down and the brake light on the dash went out. Really felt stupid when that worked because I had gone over the entire brake system a crapload of times.

Tom

 

Thank you for the PDF, soon as it gets warm enough to lay under it for a bit, I am definitely going to inspect that. I am wondering would the brakes feel differently if that wasn't somehow attached? I only ask because they seem normal apart from the ABS not working. It was snowing and the roads were slick last night, and I had no response from the ABS.

I did check the Parking Brake switch, thank you for mentioning it. I am guessing that it wouldn't be the source of the ABS light though right?

I know this all seems like its in the wrong thread, but it all started from doing this project, perhaps if I can figure out mine, it can help someone else along the way.

Thank you again!

 

I think the brake light is a coincidence.. You said ABS was on, which will also trigger the brake light.. you should have a code stored for that. What is it? Oriellys does have a scanner capable of looking at ABS, find another store that has a working one. I am guessing a speed sensor on one of your wheels or the rear differential. ( The rear on differential is the most common to go bad )
You said you also had a bit of lag.. sounds about right if your cats are plugged up.
Mine was not throwing a code yet were nearly completely clogged .
Take to a reputable muffler shop and they will test for free. But lag and falling on its face as you drive are common as the timing being all out of whack destroys them in no time.

Mike

 

I am going to try to get a code on it this weekend, I have a friend with a scanner, who will come and read it for me.