Michael Johanson

I am almost afraid to ask, but what is the price to have an emailed tune for the SCT tuner.
I know you did this, but I now do not even see it offered on your website.
Let me guess.. no money to be made like everything else you sell, so no longer available?


All I see is that most everything you have is darn near a 400 percent markup over all of your competitors. 85 bucks for a wedge tool.. 80 to 130 for just lockouts.. I knew the complete tuning kit was pricey but wow... who makes these prices up?


This will be my last post directly to Livernois. Answer my question concerning the tune for an SCT tuner please. I can certainly understand if you do not want to as I have pretty much ousted you unintentionally just trying to get a straight answer.
I guess my gut feeling about your company actually were pretty right on after seeing what I have seen and reading more bad reviews then good, after a quick Google search.


Everyone else here. My apologies. All I wanted were answers, and I had no intentions for this, but I can't help but call a spade a spade when I see it.
I would however make sure if you buy from Livernois, that you get it all in writing that it will pass emissions, ect, Will support your product after the fact, ect. ( these were a few of the complaints I read, essentially not standing behind the product after purchased )



Mike

Livernois Motorsports

"...Came out to $816 that's not incling the phasers which are $460 a piece...."

Livernois Motorsports

Mike,

Again I am sorry that you feel like we are not offering an honest repair kit at a reasonable price. Fortunately, there are thousands that are able to see the value in our parts, expertise and experience.

We only use our own MyCalibrator device for all our tuning. We also have our own proprietary tuning software as well. Our software allows us to have far more access to your ECU, and because we have more access our tuning files are much larger than most. We have had to go out and develop our own tuning hardware that is capable of accommodating our larger tuning files. It has been over 3 years since we have offered any type of SCT or any other 3rd party tuning software support. We use our proprietary software and hardware combo for our repair kits and all of our performance tuning alike.

F150Torqued

This ole dumb country bumpkins gotta' question.


Anyhow - what is all this discussion about Livernoise doing in this thread titled - "The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound".


Livernoise lockouts are a Jimmy job, NOT a Repair for Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound. OH - they will cure the sound. But it is what we call 'jury riggin' down here in the south. Just about the same as putting a spark plug extender under your O2 sensor to get rid of CAT efficiency codes, or grounding out your overdrive switch because overdrive clutches are slippin', or putting saw dust in your defferential to stop a rear end howl. It ain't a REPAIR. It is a "jimmy job" that defeats the Phaser's operation.


And it has no place in this thread. It is totally disrepectful to the OP ( @s_vares ). Livernoise should start another thread to advertise their overpriced jury riggin they sell to mask phaser vane slap that is caused by other factors NOT being "FIXED". If you have oil pressure problems, leaking chain tensioners, worn bearing surfaces, scored/worn cam journals, plugged VCT Solenoid body passageways, or whatever - one should attempt to fix those.


Just my 2 cents worth, although I admittedly spent lots more of my meeger retirement income than what any of yall are talking about "repairing" mine.

Martian

A full timing replacement kit, from Ford, all OEM, including phasers, is currently $813.01.

Martian

Correct, and valid point... Back to topic.

elricfate

On topic, Melling M360 or Melling 10340? Discuss.

F150Torqued

@elricfate


I am by no means an expert but delighted to share my personal experience. I choose the Melling 10340 for the timing job on my then 212,000 mile 2004 5.4. I had decided to try to 'upgrade' because my hot idle pressure on my aftermarket gauge was running 15-16 lbs on 5W20 full syn oil - but was decent on 0W40 (which I did not want to run consistently).


I had difficulty getting good, reliable, authoritative (NON SALES BS) information on oil pumps. ie: The backing plate on your OEM oil pump does NOT flex / leak oil causing loss of oil pressure at idle!!!. The front surface of the engine block where the oil pump bolts is FLAT and SMOOTH. The oil pump backing plate sits firmly against the front of the engine block and there is NO DAMN way it could flex even if it didn't have several Torqx screws holding it on. PLUS, idle oil pressure is WAY BELOW the threshold of the Spring Loaded BYPASS VALVE that relieves excess oil pressure back to its input at higher RPMs. Even Melling tried to push this myth on me trying to sell their pumps.


The Melling sales guy also told me the 10340 was not a High Volume pump - but was instead a High Pressure pump!!! He probably said that because I had complained about my idle pressure.


BUT THAT is also BS. Laws of hydraulics dictate that the two are inseparably linked. You can't get more pressure in the same system of restrictions unless you push more VOLUME. You push more volume, you are going to get higher pressure if everything else stays the same. Beyond that, the question is merely "at what pressure do you want it to relieve or bypass" to keep from exploding your oil filter.


But I am very happy with the Melling 10340. at 217,000 now, the ole 5.4 idles VERY SMOOTH around 24-26 lbs at full operating temperature on 101 degree days in South Tx, in gear with A/C on (around 580-600 rpm) running full synthetic 5W30. FOR THESE REASONS, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THE MELLING 10340.


BTW. Make sure the oil pump is seated "perfectly" before torqueing the oil pump bolts - to avoid screwing up an oil pump like I did in the second photo in this post:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/final-r...2/#post4587382


And good luck. My truck runs / idles / pulls / performs fantastic now.

Michael Johanson

I agree with the 10340. Higher volume. Do not forget to check thrust bearings since your pan is off.


Saying that.. I do wonder just what percentage has thrust bearings that have failed that do not get changed, ( or even checked for that matter), leading to the same deal over and over.
That question being asked, also cannot but wonder what PSI is required for the crappy plastic tensioners to hold the chains tight? What a horrible design them are!
Recommend using the steel tensioners when you do this work, as the ratcheting system will keep the chains tight, and you wont even hear chain rattle at start up.


Mike

Martian

A note on the laws of hydraulics - pressure and volume are only linked if the output is the same size. A 1gal/min pump with a 1/4" output will have a higher pressure than a 1gal/min pump with a 1" output, but their volume is both 1gal/min.