@Peter Freund, I did it in February this year, 8,500 miles ago - with no issues AT ALL. The truck starts/runs/idles unbelievably (as good or better than when it was new). Idles like a swiss watch, will set you back in the seat and wind up like a small block chevy - and I don't baby it one bit for its current 220,500 miles.


Of course what I did wasn't far short of a reman. I replaced EVERYTHING that moves-giggles-rolls except stuff inside the block and the cam shafts themselves. That included OEM Phasers, Chains, Cast Iron Tensioners, MMR Tensioner Arms, guides, crank gear, VCT Solenoids, Melling 10340 Oil Pump, 24 lifters, 24 Rollers, M/C 515 spark plugs, four COP plugs, 2 injector plugs, all seals/gaskets, + Water Pump, all idler pulleys, belt, belt tensioner, ALL 8 "NEW" fuel injectors, + A/C compressor/Dryer/Expansion valve, Oil Filter + filter sandwhich addapter & a digital Oil pressure gauge. To the tune of around $3,000.00


The ONLY issue on startup was a couple of harness plugs I had forgotten and flakey connections that lead to my replacing the mentioned COP & INJECTOR harness plugs.


I would not have gone so ALL IN but pre-testing indicated the Truck had decent oil pressure (17-18 HOT idle on 5W20) and compression of 158-174 across all cyls. HOT Idle oil pressure with the new Melling 10340 pump ranges 24-26.

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I understand from further research - the reason Ford went AWAY from the Metal Ratchet style tensioners - on police fleet vehicles, frequent high rpm conditions ratcheted strong tension on chains - and latched - resulting in faster ware of chains and front lower cam journal. ???? (seems plausible.) But I like the engine cranking with tension on chains instead of relaxed.
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Sounds like you did it right. The first time I used aftermarket phasers and didn't know the oil pump issue. The second time I was in a pinch and used what the local stores had available. This time I'm trying to do it right so I bought a Melling M360 pump, metal tensioners, I'm looking at getting the Cloyes timing chain kit, OEM Phasers, and I'm planning on installing an Oil Pressure gauge. Any good aftermarket phasers out there or would you just recommend going with OEM? I going to tear into this next week and I want to make sure all my bases are covered.

 

Alright, bought steel Cloyes tensioners, Cloyes timing chain kit with new chains, guides, tensioner arms, etc. Melling M360 oil pump, new timing cover gaskets, new crankshaft seal, Motorcraft Gold concentrate coolant, OEM Phasers, Motorcraft gray RTV silicone, Motorcraft oil filter. Based on my past experience doing this job, this should be everything I need to complete the job properly. I debated replacing the water pump, but I can always do that later if needed. Are there any other suggestions y'all might have before I tear into this?

 

Sounds good. Grab a set of gaskets for the VCT Solenoid Valve Bodys, remove them and clean all the passage ways and screens inside them out real good while you are right there.

 

Have you thought about changing the lash adjusters and followers while you have the valve covers off? I found 13 out of 24 bad lash adjusters when I did my phaser change. Good luck let us know how it goes.

Tom

 

How were you able to tell that your lash adjusters were bad? I'm not versed in that area of the engine.

 

Just put in a New cam on left side and whole new timing set all guides, sprockets, phasers, chains, and tensioners. After it was all done cranked over by hand and I am getting a snap from both phasers about 2/3 rds of a rotation the one on the right side is more forceful. Anyone have an idea?

 

I had a lot of lifter tap sound and when I did my timing kit, pulled the cams, filled a bowl with some fresh oil, put all the lash adjusters in oil to soak. One by one, while still held submerged in oil, I pumped the lash adjuster to draw in new oil and bleed the air out. Most pumped up and showed a feel of resistance after bleeding them, 9 of them, stayed closed and did not pump up. On my followers, I rolled the wheel (roller) and watched for any resistance and any imperfections in the wheels. I ended up getting a kit and changed out all 24 lash adjusters and followers, no noise since at all. Doing this also gave me the chance to look at my cam and the cam journals for any scoring. I used engine assembly lube on the cam journals when putting the cams back in.

Good luck
Tom

 

So I am trying to still decide whether to repair or trade my truck.. I definitely cant pay mechanic 3K to do it so i am considering diving in myself. I found a great video on you tube where a ford mechanic goes step by step nearly bolt by bolt(i am definietely not a mechanic). I am still unsure on what timing kit to purchase. Can anyone steer me towards the best option(phasers icluded)? Also want to do oil and water pumps while i,m in there. 2006 f150 xl 4x4 5.4 154,000 miles. Already have replaced plugs, coil packs, alternator, cats, battery, tires, hub assembly..feel like i'm too far in to give up on it but also don't want to keep throwing good money at a bad truck....

 

Trading is easiest & less hassle but your decision to weigh the cost differences.
Hind site wise I wished I had also replaced the lifters & used the older design iron tensoners (for piece of mind).

Other
I figure Ill upgrade to a newer truck in 2-3yrs after my wife gets another vehicle (my daughter will get my wifes current vehicle).


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