All things HID here!!!
Hi. Were yer Stock bulbs both burned out?
Youngin', if you'd only spent a little time researching this it would be as evident as the nose on yer face that 8000K is significantly lower in actual lumen output as detected by the human eye than 4000-4300K. Hence - what you perceive, as opposed to what is actually the case are two entirely different things. A fresh OEM halogen bulb will produce more usable light than an 8000K bulb. Roughly the same lumens but the halogen light will be a more usable wavelength. (note - 8K it's NOT 100% brighter, lol). Throw in some rain, and it's literally night & day; water absorbs that wavelength and you are left with pitiful output - dangerously so. Oh, wait - it gets worse - as the 8000K bulb ages, it will color-shift and start climbing the kelvin scale and trend towards 9,000K - even more useless than it already is, lol. Pull up a chair, fire up yer 'puter, browse to www.hidplanet.com and begin yer edumacation - yer sorely lacking in same, as yer posts clearly illustrate. Good news - it can be fixed. Example: Standard OEM halogen 55W H13 = 1100lm (lumens) 4300k D2S Philips = 3200lm (lumens) 8000k D2S other = 1180lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand) Higher than 8000k, the light output significantly drops off, causing the light to be almost useless. good luck
Youngin', if you'd only spent a little time researching this it would be as evident as the nose on yer face that 8000K is significantly lower in actual lumen output as detected by the human eye than 4000-4300K. Hence - what you perceive, as opposed to what is actually the case are two entirely different things. A fresh OEM halogen bulb will produce more usable light than an 8000K bulb. Roughly the same lumens but the halogen light will be a more usable wavelength. (note - 8K it's NOT 100% brighter, lol). Throw in some rain, and it's literally night & day; water absorbs that wavelength and you are left with pitiful output - dangerously so. Oh, wait - it gets worse - as the 8000K bulb ages, it will color-shift and start climbing the kelvin scale and trend towards 9,000K - even more useless than it already is, lol. Pull up a chair, fire up yer 'puter, browse to www.hidplanet.com and begin yer edumacation - yer sorely lacking in same, as yer posts clearly illustrate. Good news - it can be fixed. Example: Standard OEM halogen 55W H13 = 1100lm (lumens) 4300k D2S Philips = 3200lm (lumens) 8000k D2S other = 1180lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand) Higher than 8000k, the light output significantly drops off, causing the light to be almost useless. good luckHi.
Were yer Stock bulbs both burned out?
Youngin', if you'd only spent a little time researching this it would be as evident as the nose on yer face that 8000K is significantly lower in actual lumen output as detected by the human eye than 4000-4300K.
Hence - what you perceive, as opposed to what is actually the case are two entirely different things. A fresh OEM halogen bulb will produce more usable light than an 8000K bulb. Roughly the same lumens but the halogen light will be a more usable wavelength. (note - 8K it's NOT 100% brighter, lol).
Throw in some rain, and it's literally night & day; water absorbs that wavelength and you are left with pitiful output - dangerously so.
Oh, wait - it gets worse - as the 8000K bulb ages, it will color-shift and start climbing the kelvin scale and trend towards 9,000K - even more useless than it already is, lol.
Pull up a chair, fire up yer 'puter, browse to www.hidplanet.com and begin yer edumacation - yer sorely lacking in same, as yer posts clearly illustrate.
Good news - it can be fixed.
Example:
Standard OEM halogen 55W H13 = 1100lm (lumens)
4300k D2S Philips = 3200lm (lumens)
8000k D2S other = 1180lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)
Higher than 8000k, the light output significantly drops off, causing the light to be almost useless.
good luck
Were yer Stock bulbs both burned out?

Youngin', if you'd only spent a little time researching this it would be as evident as the nose on yer face that 8000K is significantly lower in actual lumen output as detected by the human eye than 4000-4300K.
Hence - what you perceive, as opposed to what is actually the case are two entirely different things. A fresh OEM halogen bulb will produce more usable light than an 8000K bulb. Roughly the same lumens but the halogen light will be a more usable wavelength. (note - 8K it's NOT 100% brighter, lol).
Throw in some rain, and it's literally night & day; water absorbs that wavelength and you are left with pitiful output - dangerously so.
Oh, wait - it gets worse - as the 8000K bulb ages, it will color-shift and start climbing the kelvin scale and trend towards 9,000K - even more useless than it already is, lol.
Pull up a chair, fire up yer 'puter, browse to www.hidplanet.com and begin yer edumacation - yer sorely lacking in same, as yer posts clearly illustrate.
Good news - it can be fixed.
Example:
Standard OEM halogen 55W H13 = 1100lm (lumens)
4300k D2S Philips = 3200lm (lumens)
8000k D2S other = 1180lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)
Higher than 8000k, the light output significantly drops off, causing the light to be almost useless.
good luck

Shhhhh ... don't tell anyone!!!

I'm waiting fer my 100,000K Gamma Ray emitters to come in. Pesky ballasts are the size of beer kegs, though. Good thing it's a pick-me-up truck!

Cheers!
MGD
For anyone that is still confused or uneducated on the subject, here is a link to an article that explains a lot on the subject of halogens and HIDs. http://www.f150online.com/forums/ill...ns-v-hids.html
There is a wonderful diagram in there describing the different kelvin levels and explains why 4300k produces the most lumens (much like MGD suggested above).
There is a wonderful diagram in there describing the different kelvin levels and explains why 4300k produces the most lumens (much like MGD suggested above).







