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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

truck wont start help please

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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 11:51 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Kid with a truck
I started with the driver side bank. Not much room to work in but do able with fuel rail etc removed.

So I am figuring these plugs didn't like sitting hot with the engine off for a while and that's why it doesn't like starting right away under that condition.....considering fuel pressure and regulator seemed fine.
The usual slow or no start is due to plug wear. As they wear, the gap increases and center electrode shows sign of wear. Also the ground electrode can wear and weaken at the bend.

That said, w/Autolites, you never know. They shouldn't even be cross referenced as a valid part# for the modular motor.

Check their gap real quick, -should be 5four lol
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Old Dec 27, 2013 | 12:29 AM
  #32  
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well, I got the drive side plugs installed. Just checked the gap on the old ones, and they ranged from 0.40 to 0.45

Possibly, the PO's mechanic installed not only the wrong plugs but the wrong gapping?
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Old Dec 27, 2013 | 12:51 AM
  #33  
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That's a gap size for 98 Dodge Durango 360 I should know just change them
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Old Dec 27, 2013 | 01:10 AM
  #34  
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maybe he was looking at wrong truck in the book then, idk, but couldn't have been good.

changing first plug on passenger side and cop retainer bolt is stripped....great. I don't know how I'm gonna get it out yet
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Old Dec 27, 2013 | 01:20 AM
  #35  
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Check YouTube video there is one on about that just watched the other day
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Old Dec 27, 2013 | 01:49 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Kid with a truck
changing first plug on passenger side and cop retainer bolt is stripped....great. I don't know how I'm gonna get it out yet
Well that sucks!

Yea, that's what happens when they were over torqued by someone that didn't know any better. The 7mm (head) COP bolt is a bushing bolt. The coils are suppose to ride free on the bushing. Meaning, once torqued you should be able to move them back and forth, -easy and by hand. Over torquing screws the next person in line to service the plugs; as you just found out, - unfortunately. They HAVE TO remain loose or the coil heads will fracture/crack and invite moisture to the inside, - shorting the transformer.

Best way to get it out now is to pry up on it while backing out. Try not to break they ear off the coil when doing so.

Then you either do a thread repair or if your a hack, you'll figure something out lol. Just remember NOT to crank that coil down tight.

Last edited by Jbrew; Dec 27, 2013 at 01:53 AM.
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Old Dec 27, 2013 | 10:18 AM
  #37  
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lol yep, I'll figure something out
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 03:28 PM
  #38  
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just took her for a test drive. wow, it idles a lot smoother, starts well, and revs like a dream.

thanks a lot Jbrew!
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 05:09 PM
  #39  
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spoke to soon......it still has extended crank time when sitting 1-2.5 hours.

I cant think of anything but the computer, fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 06:22 PM
  #40  
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You definitely did it some good with the correct plugs in there.

Your going to have to wait until it acts up again. If you hear the pump charge the lines w/key on, your probably alright. Do you run it low on gas allot lol ?

Yea, if you don't hear anything KOEO, leave the key in run and slap the bottom of the tank a few times. Listen for any pump action while doing so.
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