Thinking
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From: Alaska
White....I think you may have a valid point on the t=bars after going under there today. I can see loosing the mounts and sliding it back some, but still think that with the shift motor removed, you'd have enough clearance to move the t/case and slip the trans out.
I called my friend who is a line mechanic at the local Ford dealership, and when he called me back, he said he doesn't mess with the t-bars. He's done enough of them, that he's got the roll down on the t/case he said. He did say to pull the shift motor (which I thought might make it accessible) and roll the main case up to the body and slid it on to the t-bar mount. Then wire it up to that and it will give you just enough room to slide the trans back 4 inches, and it will clear the flywheel, slide it back a bit more, and raise the tail end. The front will now lower and drop the unit out at a 45 degree angle. He also said that he doesn't drop the exhaust, but does remove the shields for access to the front cooler line. He did say to definitely have the truck with enough ground clearance to make the transmission have clearance to come out from under the truck. Otherwise it is a bear to get out.
I called my friend who is a line mechanic at the local Ford dealership, and when he called me back, he said he doesn't mess with the t-bars. He's done enough of them, that he's got the roll down on the t/case he said. He did say to pull the shift motor (which I thought might make it accessible) and roll the main case up to the body and slid it on to the t-bar mount. Then wire it up to that and it will give you just enough room to slide the trans back 4 inches, and it will clear the flywheel, slide it back a bit more, and raise the tail end. The front will now lower and drop the unit out at a 45 degree angle. He also said that he doesn't drop the exhaust, but does remove the shields for access to the front cooler line. He did say to definitely have the truck with enough ground clearance to make the transmission have clearance to come out from under the truck. Otherwise it is a bear to get out.
98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
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From: MI
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From: Utah
Here in Utah, I still have to have the old girl pass emissions and a state inspection every year. So far... 5 out of the last 5 years, the damn thing has failed for a bad gas cap. I kept buying them at Vatozone. This year I bought a Motorcraft cap, and it better damn well last. The terminology on the package says that it's mostly made in the USA... whatever that means.
Also bought me an oil cap that says 5W-20 on it.... I don't know why, but I've always wanted to have one on it, LOL. It's not here yet though.
I love Amazon
Also bought me an oil cap that says 5W-20 on it.... I don't know why, but I've always wanted to have one on it, LOL. It's not here yet though.
I love Amazon
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,544
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From: Alaska
We had the IM inspections until about 4 years ago. Our air was clean enough then, that they stopped the program. The city makes $65 a car more now, as they upped the car tax from $5.00 for a 7 year old car to $70. That is the lowest vehicle tax in Anchorage anymore. $150 is the max for a new car/truck. I guess they couldn't live without making that extra money each year. Pissed off a lot of folks, that's for sure. This was for Anchorage and Fairbanks only. No other borough's required it. We've never had vehicle inspection per se. We could use that.
I took the pickup out to the shop yesterday on a slideback. It is up in the air right now, and will be back supposedly on Tuesday. I haven't had to buy transmission fluid in some time, so I was rather taken aback on the costs. $4.53 was the lowest price anywhere, including my parts store accounts. The one who always gives me the best deal was bought out, so I was out almost a dollar per quart extra.
I took the pickup out to the shop yesterday on a slideback. It is up in the air right now, and will be back supposedly on Tuesday. I haven't had to buy transmission fluid in some time, so I was rather taken aback on the costs. $4.53 was the lowest price anywhere, including my parts store accounts. The one who always gives me the best deal was bought out, so I was out almost a dollar per quart extra.
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Joined: Dec 2015
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From: Utah
White....I think you may have a valid point on the t=bars after going under there today. I can see loosing the mounts and sliding it back some, but still think that with the shift motor removed, you'd have enough clearance to move the t/case and slip the trans out.
I called my friend who is a line mechanic at the local Ford dealership, and when he called me back, he said he doesn't mess with the t-bars. He's done enough of them, that he's got the roll down on the t/case he said. He did say to pull the shift motor (which I thought might make it accessible) and roll the main case up to the body and slid it on to the t-bar mount. Then wire it up to that and it will give you just enough room to slide the trans back 4 inches, and it will clear the flywheel, slide it back a bit more, and raise the tail end. The front will now lower and drop the unit out at a 45 degree angle. He also said that he doesn't drop the exhaust, but does remove the shields for access to the front cooler line. He did say to definitely have the truck with enough ground clearance to make the transmission have clearance to come out from under the truck. Otherwise it is a bear to get out.
I called my friend who is a line mechanic at the local Ford dealership, and when he called me back, he said he doesn't mess with the t-bars. He's done enough of them, that he's got the roll down on the t/case he said. He did say to pull the shift motor (which I thought might make it accessible) and roll the main case up to the body and slid it on to the t-bar mount. Then wire it up to that and it will give you just enough room to slide the trans back 4 inches, and it will clear the flywheel, slide it back a bit more, and raise the tail end. The front will now lower and drop the unit out at a 45 degree angle. He also said that he doesn't drop the exhaust, but does remove the shields for access to the front cooler line. He did say to definitely have the truck with enough ground clearance to make the transmission have clearance to come out from under the truck. Otherwise it is a bear to get out.
Thread Starter
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From: Alaska
What are you guys paying for ATF where you are?
White.....this is exactly why I took it to a buddy's shop who does 2-3 of these per month. He made me a deal for the labor. Most shops around here are 100 or more per hour. He is flat rating me at 65 ph. With a warranty for labor/parts from the trans place, it made sense to have a shop install it.
White.....this is exactly why I took it to a buddy's shop who does 2-3 of these per month. He made me a deal for the labor. Most shops around here are 100 or more per hour. He is flat rating me at 65 ph. With a warranty for labor/parts from the trans place, it made sense to have a shop install it.
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From: Utah
What are you guys paying for ATF where you are?
White.....this is exactly why I took it to a buddy's shop who does 2-3 of these per month. He made me a deal for the labor. Most shops around here are 100 or more per hour. He is flat rating me at 65 ph. With a warranty for labor/parts from the trans place, it made sense to have a shop install it.
White.....this is exactly why I took it to a buddy's shop who does 2-3 of these per month. He made me a deal for the labor. Most shops around here are 100 or more per hour. He is flat rating me at 65 ph. With a warranty for labor/parts from the trans place, it made sense to have a shop install it.
You know what pisses me off.... I spent this morning at his shop changing the trans fluid and oil in his truck with him, and then we went to the wrecking yard. Do you think I could remember to ask him? LOL
He did hook me up with this though... a little mini-Matco tool box. I thought you might dig it, AK.
