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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

Remove Bed on Flareside

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Old Feb 10, 2022 | 06:21 PM
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Pete
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Default Remove Bed on Flareside

Howdy. I am going to lift the bed on my flareside to replace the fuel pump. (After I get ths plugs/coils fixed)
Looking under it, I see 3 bolts, which I wirebrushed and lubed. I see the electrical stuff to unplug...the Lic plate lites and my trailer hitch hookup. I will locate the taillights, etc .
Anybody got any tips on how to lift ? Where to hookup...do I need spacers at the top of the bed? What kind of hooks to use to lift ?
I got a backhoe that will lift it. I read to pad the cab corners so it won't get scratched...but could find nothing on the actual lifting of the bed. I had a Chevy with a fiberglas bed...that sucker was heavy...reckon this one is too.
Thank you
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Old Feb 10, 2022 | 08:01 PM
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I don't know as I never has one. This person hooked to the inner tiedowns

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L16EfUcc8dg
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Old Feb 10, 2022 | 08:18 PM
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I was told you can slide the bed backwards a foot or so to access the fuel pump. Not clear on the process but the internet may know.

Last edited by KMAG; Feb 10, 2022 at 08:26 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2022 | 08:30 PM
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i've always drained the tank and lowered it with a floor jack.
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Old Feb 10, 2022 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by spyder982
i've always drained the tank and lowered it with a floor jack.
Same here.... quick and easy.
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Old Feb 11, 2022 | 06:14 AM
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Fuel filler neck and support clamp is the only other thing I see to disconnect. I don’t think a Flareside bed would be as heavy or any heavier than a Styleside. Two people can lift and slide the bed back enough to access the fuel pump without any problem, done several. Forget the backhoe and phone a friend. The biggest headache on these beds is getting the bolts out. Rust isn’t the issue. The OEM bolts are slightly triangular and cut their own threads when screwed into the caged nut. They’re tighter than a Nun’s you-know-what. Buy a “P” type Torx bit, I don’t recall if it’s a 50 or 55.(ie.TP55 or T55P) My Ingersol Rand air impact struggled/refused to remove some bolts but my big Porter Cable electric impact works well. If the bolts cooperate the rest is a piece of cake.




Last edited by ncranchero; Feb 11, 2022 at 06:19 AM.
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Old Feb 11, 2022 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ncranchero
Fuel filler neck and support clamp is the only other thing I see to disconnect. I don’t think a Flareside bed would be as heavy or any heavier than a Styleside. Two people can lift and slide the bed back enough to access the fuel pump without any problem, done several. Forget the backhoe and phone a friend. The biggest headache on these beds is getting the bolts out. Rust isn’t the issue. The OEM bolts are slightly triangular and cut their own threads when screwed into the caged nut. They’re tighter than a Nun’s you-know-what. Buy a “P” type Torx bit, I don’t recall if it’s a 50 or 55.(ie.TP55 or T55P) My Ingersol Rand air impact struggled/refused to remove some bolts but my big Porter Cable electric impact works well. If the bolts cooperate the rest is a piece of cake.

It's heavier.
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Old Feb 11, 2022 | 08:30 PM
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Yeah.....think a LOT heavier. I remember the 1991 Chev flareside fiberglas bed I did....I was able to just hoist up the front of the bed with the back bolts real loose. I had to rig up some heavy duty straps to pick it up...it popped the lightweight ones.
I don't think I can do the same with this bed....the back of the bed would dig into the bumper area and break something.
Thanks for all the info. Now I gotta find me a fuel pump...a made in USA fuel pump. Anybody know of a brand ?
Thanks, Pete
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Old Feb 11, 2022 | 09:57 PM
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I use motorcraft.
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Old Feb 12, 2022 | 02:59 AM
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Be forewarned, depending on your location/environment, you may end up drilling the heads off those bed bolts to get them out. All the T50P bit did for me was give me a bigger hole in which to start the bit. If one won't budge, then I'd consider lowering the tank, instead.

I'd probably go with a Motorcraft pump, as well.
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