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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

Remove Bed on Flareside

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Old Feb 12, 2022 | 06:18 AM
  #11  
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Y’all act like removing a bed is a huge undertaking. Granted, some of the bolts will be a challenge. Some come right out, some refuse to. The red and gold trucks all zipped right out, the green one and a F250 nope. So with a Flareside you can’t block the fenders on the bumper but you can by the bed floor. You don’t have to remove the bed, only slide it back. I never put one in my SCrew but it’s a drop tank only. I used the same method on my Sport Trac and Ranger. Use a regular Torx bit and you’ll break every one you have. Three of us old guys picked up the green long bed and sat it on the buyers trailer. I used a chain fall on the gold one since the buyer wanted it sat on top of his F250 4x4 bed. YMMV 🤷🏻‍♂️

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Old Feb 12, 2022 | 10:54 AM
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Not a huge undertaking, but not quite like changing a tire, either. Removing the bolts (or rather, not being able to remove them) can be an unexpected SNAFU that puts a kink in an otherwise fairly simple task, so it bears mentioning.

P. S. Two of us removed my Flareside bed.
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Old Feb 12, 2022 | 07:05 PM
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I'm prepping it , getting ready to pull the bed later....I got under it yesterday and sprayed diesel on the bolts. anyways...I took a 3/8" rachet and broke the bolts, then took my drill driver (impact drill driver 1/4") and backed 'em rite out. They were not triangular...they were nice round bolts with an alignment spear on the tip. I greased 'em up real good and reinstalled . This truck is really clean underneath. I will be doing pump later and will be working alone, so will hoist the bed up a bit to move it. Thanks
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Old Feb 12, 2022 | 07:31 PM
  #14  
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You lucked out! 👍🏼 I’ll just say every one I have removed has a very slight triangular shape, really not obvious. I keep one of the stubborn #€$@‘s on my work bench so when I’m struggling with a task I just pick it up and hold it and it puts the problem into perspective 😆. It’s difficult to photograph the bolt and depict the shape but you can slightly see it in this photo. With your good luck you’ll have it done in no time.



edit: I couldn’t remember the name of the bolts but here’s a bit of info, just for the heck of it.
”A small amount of parts and tools you will need to remove your bed is required. You will likely need 8 new bed bolts and clips (f150 and f250 models only use 6) because the old ones will likely not be salvageable. Ford uses a box bolt called a TAPTITE2000. You can see a short video of a guy explaining these bolts
. In short, the bolts are blown down at the factory using a power tool into a clip attached to the frame that is not threaded. These bolts require the use of a size 50 torx PLUS socket (do NOT use a T47). Once the bolts and clips get rusty they are nearly impossible to remove. Most of the time you will shatter your torx plus socket or the caged nut will spin free. If you want expensive Ford replacement bolts, you will have to contact the dealer. Below, I have linked to the entire set of aftermarket replacement bolts and nuts.

W708770 & W714263-S900 (Ford P/N - sold each)”

Last edited by ncranchero; Feb 12, 2022 at 07:45 PM.
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Old Feb 13, 2022 | 07:13 PM
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I got the bed off today. Used the backhoe. I think 4 guys could do it without much trouble...but 2 ? Must have been bulls. anyway, I am working alone. I will clean it up and get ready for the fuel pump.....anyone know if the hose for the fuel fill is the same kind of hose used for radiator hose ? I may replace it. May replace some of the vent hoses on the tank too. The surface of the hoses is crumbling but they seem flexible. Thanks
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Old Feb 13, 2022 | 07:25 PM
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The fuel fill hose is not the same as radiator hose. it needs to be fuel hose. Napa has a hose with the right angle just need to trim it to fit.
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Old Feb 14, 2022 | 06:56 PM
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Thanks for info on the fuel fill hose. Think I will keep the original, seems ok. I found the diff vent plugged with dirt. Got it cleaned and made a filter for it.
Got some rat damage on the fuel line from the pump to the steel line. One of the short ones off the tank. The other one, the return (I think) is ok and is a bit smaller.
I am finding this hose hard to locate locally. Was going to make one and see that the steel line is a size (5/16) smaller than the outlet on the pump (3/8).......makes it interesting. Do ya'll think I can make one from the stuff found on the "HELP" boards at the parts place ? I would need connectors and a hose reducer. Use some fuel hose to make it up....is this stuff too flimsy? Any alternatives?.................Thank You
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Old Feb 14, 2022 | 07:10 PM
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It sounds like you've made decent headway. Congrats! That line and it's fittings need to be rated for fuel injection pressures, so not just any old stuff will do. If you can post a picture of what you're looking at/for, someone here may be able to point you in the right direction.

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Old Feb 14, 2022 | 07:24 PM
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You do not have to take the bed off, you only need to pull the screws that hold it on, then lift it and put blocks to hold it up. I lifted mine and had a helper to put the block in.
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Old Feb 15, 2022 | 07:24 PM
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I will get a few pics later...don't have a smart phone...got a dumb phone. I will use my camera then upload to computer then upload to site....see why no pics...ha ha ha?
I figure the fuel pressure with a new pump should be around 45 psi, rite ? The adapter I am making should handle that easily. Ain't figured what else to do anyhow...except to try and order a used one...ugh !
Thank ya'll again for all the tips, etc...
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