As far as junk yards the closest is about 50 miles away.

 

Ok we'll that sucks.... I checked my inbox I didn't get ur message. Have u started pulling ur harness off yet? If u haven't can u post a pic of what ur injector plug looks like and one of what they done to try to fix this problem.

 

What needs to be done (I think) and but if the fuel injector is getting the incorrect voltage due to the wires being taped.... Yes I said this lol cause I've ran into this problem on a gm make model car. Anyways it wasn't untill I soldered the wires till my problem was cured. But what I want u to do an this will he cheap. Go to ur local parts store and buy a mechanics stethoscope. Crank the truck and stick the stethoscope to a injector on a cylinder that is working properly.. Here the click? Ok now stick it to the injector on the cylinder that is miss firing. Do u here that same click? This is the sound of ur injectors opening. If u don't here this click the injector is not working. Just want u to do this just to verify forsure the Injector is not opening. The stethoscope should be around 15 bucks at most.

 

Also do u have just a basic test light

 

I am really going to try to help u on this one till the end. I love a good challenge. Although I wish I could get my hands on that truck I'm am going to do my best to walk u through steps to try to get to the bottom of this while makeing them simple and I hope not expensive. Trying to find ways u can test things with cheap tools. Lol I'm not gonna have u check the resistance on the injector as u said u switched one around and nothing changed so that tells me u should have a good injector on the miss fireing cylinder. Once u get that stethoscope see is the injector clicking. While ur there if u don't got a basic light up test light go ahead and get one as out next step u will need one. If u have a volt meter I will get u to do some testing with it but if u don't then we will work around it. Just a mechanics stethoscope and basic light up test light.

 

My number is 252-202-3606. Thank you for all your help and feel free to call or text anytime. I wish you were closely myself so you could get your hands on it.

I haven't started pulling the wire harness off yet but will go by the stethoscope tomorrow. I also have a multimeter if that is what you mean by basic light test unless you are talking about the one that looks like a screwdriver and just lights up....?

Here are some pictures I think will help you see what they did.

Courtney

 

I will be in touch with u soon yes a multi meter and a basic screwdriver style light up test light.it will be tomorrow problem before u here from me tho

 

That works look forward to it and thank you again.

 

So I was thinking today and wondering how you would clean a fuel rail?

I dont know if it is clogged but it would make sense to me that it is right around the area of cylinder 4 therefore that fuel injector isnt getting the right amount a fuel at the right time if that makes sense. Just thinking and throwing noodles seeing which one sticks really as all the wiring testing I have done so far has checked out where it needs be.....

 

Ok so I'm not sure why this worked but yesterday i disconnected the battery, unplugged all the plug wires and took out spark plugs 1-6 as I couldn't break the other 2 loose. I then cleaned them really good and put everything back together making sure they were connected properly. I also cleaned my MAF sensor while the I had the cold air intake off.

Today I hop in and go for a ride anywhere from 0-60 mph and noticed the truck was running a lot better. When I got home the CEL was I. So u pulled the codes and got p401, p1100, and p1289.

Popped the Hood and my vacuum lines are on top of the EGR valve so I need to require those as they are pulling the valve out...should solve that one.

I'm thrown on the other 2 as I just cleaned the MAF sensor. Also not sure in a 1997 I have a CHT sensor and if so where would it be? I can't find anything In Haynes about this one for the 4.6l.

Happy there was no misfire code