Increase mpg
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 129
Likes: 13
From: Arvada Colorado
wow Tackle, that IS terrible. Especially knowing you take better care of your truck than most. My previous truck, a 2000 5.4L stock ORP got 12 at best.
I used to have a '99 ranger 4.0L 4.10 gears, that got about 12mpg. Loved the truck but the mileage was just stupid bad. Turns out, there is an air sensor in the intake, and the sensor wasn't clocked so it could be inserted in any orientation. If the sensor faced the airflow properly, BAM 16mpg. If not, 12mpg. Stupid Ranger.
Wish there was some way to quantify the differences between the 9mpg well-maintained truck and the 18mpg (unicorn) that we hear about from time to time.
I used to have a '99 ranger 4.0L 4.10 gears, that got about 12mpg. Loved the truck but the mileage was just stupid bad. Turns out, there is an air sensor in the intake, and the sensor wasn't clocked so it could be inserted in any orientation. If the sensor faced the airflow properly, BAM 16mpg. If not, 12mpg. Stupid Ranger.
Wish there was some way to quantify the differences between the 9mpg well-maintained truck and the 18mpg (unicorn) that we hear about from time to time.
Last edited by howie2092; Feb 21, 2014 at 12:09 PM.
Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 661
Likes: 127
We do our crankcase evac mod system for fleets just for fuel economy (have reference to contact for real world verification) alone as they really dont look for extended engine life, etc. as most are leasing the fleets. The average on a ecoboost is 1-3 MPG improvement.
To understand (and this wont work using the average oil catchcan that lets as much oil past as it catches, it can only be a system that catches all, or nearly all the oil without any pull-through occurring) you have to look at how the ECU/PCM controls the ignition timing, fuel trims, etc.
If the engine is not running at optimum advance, the power produced and the economy will suffer. Any oil contamination in the intake air charge (and thus the combustion chamber) will reduce the amount of energy released per explosive event, has a negative effect on the burn pattern, and causes detonation under a load so the knock sensors will detect this and the ECU/PCM will pull ignition timing to prevent damage. This alone is 2-3 MPG on average lost. Eliminate the ingestion (the RX system is available through several supporting vendors here, MAKPerformance, Ecoboostpowerparts, Rodney of SSI, etc.) and you see your fuel economy improve along with it.
That is one sure way. A "economy" tune is also where A/F ratio is optimized for economy as well.
On these fleets we will program RPM limit to 4500, top speed to 75, etc. to reduce employee abuse, etc.
Ask any questions in detail to better understand any of this.
To understand (and this wont work using the average oil catchcan that lets as much oil past as it catches, it can only be a system that catches all, or nearly all the oil without any pull-through occurring) you have to look at how the ECU/PCM controls the ignition timing, fuel trims, etc.
If the engine is not running at optimum advance, the power produced and the economy will suffer. Any oil contamination in the intake air charge (and thus the combustion chamber) will reduce the amount of energy released per explosive event, has a negative effect on the burn pattern, and causes detonation under a load so the knock sensors will detect this and the ECU/PCM will pull ignition timing to prevent damage. This alone is 2-3 MPG on average lost. Eliminate the ingestion (the RX system is available through several supporting vendors here, MAKPerformance, Ecoboostpowerparts, Rodney of SSI, etc.) and you see your fuel economy improve along with it.
That is one sure way. A "economy" tune is also where A/F ratio is optimized for economy as well.
On these fleets we will program RPM limit to 4500, top speed to 75, etc. to reduce employee abuse, etc.
Ask any questions in detail to better understand any of this.
Title
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 6,672
Likes: 499
From: USA
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 129
Likes: 13
From: Arvada Colorado
...Any oil contamination in the intake air charge (and thus the combustion chamber) will reduce the amount of energy released per explosive event, has a negative effect on the burn pattern, and causes detonation under a load so the knock sensors will detect this and the ECU/PCM will pull ignition timing to prevent damage. This alone is 2-3 MPG on average lost.
98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28,534
Likes: 7,638
From: MI
You know, now that I think about it, I did get crappy mileage way back when,- it was bad, 7 or 8 miles per gallon, so I noticed right away. That occurred right after changing my 02 sensors. I tried a set of Borg Warner's and it chugged the fuel. Funny thing, the truck ran perfect, - no difference. Had the right part numbers. Anyway, switched back to Bosch at the time and the mileage went back to 14, like flickering a switch.
If your truly want to try and increase mileage, the best you can do is run a dry air filter element (oil free). One that doesn't embed foreign matter, like say a good nano fiber element. They're cheap, -so might as well. That way the MAF will remain clean for a long period of time. You have to clean the MAF by hand, alcohol and Q-tips. Don't just hose it down w/that MAF cleaner crap lol.
Run a Motorcraft PVC valve only. It's the ONLY valve with large enough margins for this engine.
Run more efficient spark plugs, like iridium fine wire plugs.
Use Motorcraft 02 sensors, - they are much more stable than Bosch. Here's a tuning data about that, -
https://vmptuning.com/forum/showthread.php?t=825
Proper intake and exhaust, tire pressure and of course driving habits.
Most of it could be common sense. It's a damn truck!
If your truly want to try and increase mileage, the best you can do is run a dry air filter element (oil free). One that doesn't embed foreign matter, like say a good nano fiber element. They're cheap, -so might as well. That way the MAF will remain clean for a long period of time. You have to clean the MAF by hand, alcohol and Q-tips. Don't just hose it down w/that MAF cleaner crap lol.
Run a Motorcraft PVC valve only. It's the ONLY valve with large enough margins for this engine.
Run more efficient spark plugs, like iridium fine wire plugs.
Use Motorcraft 02 sensors, - they are much more stable than Bosch. Here's a tuning data about that, -
https://vmptuning.com/forum/showthread.php?t=825
Proper intake and exhaust, tire pressure and of course driving habits.
Most of it could be common sense. It's a damn truck!
TruckMaster
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 191
Likes: 10
From: Escanaba, Mi
I would bet my paycheck that all of these people who brag about spectacular mileage, or who complain about absolutely terrible mileage... they all have the speedometer and odometer completely out of calibration.
The speedometer/odometer is about +/- 5% from the factory. Add in some non-stock-diameter tires, unknown rear gears, etc.... and your mileage calculations will be all over the place.
GPS mileage averaged over several (ten?) tanks will get you a really solid idea of your mileage. One tank is not enough.
Or you can do what I did: use a GPS and a programmer to calibrate your speedo.
Fun fact, a buddy of mine has an old k-10 blazer - it has an aftermarket GPS speedo/odo. It is always correct regardless of tire size because it is not connected to the driveline.
The speedometer/odometer is about +/- 5% from the factory. Add in some non-stock-diameter tires, unknown rear gears, etc.... and your mileage calculations will be all over the place.
GPS mileage averaged over several (ten?) tanks will get you a really solid idea of your mileage. One tank is not enough.
Or you can do what I did: use a GPS and a programmer to calibrate your speedo.
Fun fact, a buddy of mine has an old k-10 blazer - it has an aftermarket GPS speedo/odo. It is always correct regardless of tire size because it is not connected to the driveline.