HELP! Major engine problems!
98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28,520
Likes: 7,632
From: MI
98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28,520
Likes: 7,632
From: MI
It's going to take a little bit, - multitasking, - paying the bills while doing so lol. But I should be done in a little bit .
98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28,520
Likes: 7,632
From: MI
Here's back story, I have a 2000 with a 5.4 and it's been throwing lean codes on both banks (bank 1 is a solid code with freeze frame data and bank 2 is a "pending" code). What it does is, when the weather is fairly cold, it would chug a lot in idle but once you apply throttle it ran fine. It had been doing that for quite some time. I replaced the tps, iat sensor, fuel filter, iac valve, cps, fuel pressure regulator, air filter, several vacuum lines, and ran sea foam in fuel plus in vacuum system. None of this fixed the problem. I settled thinking the exhaust leak at the bank 1 side exhaust manifold was causing it and was waiting to get it fixed. Then, about a week or 2 ago, it started having problems starting but the chugging was gone. It would turn over for about 5-10 seconds before sputtering to a slightly rough idle. But, it always started. Now, tonight, it again started hard and I drove to a friends house but left it running then shut it off at the gas station. When it started, there was a loud pop, some smoke, and a foul smell. I started driving and it ran so-so. But, when I slow down or stop, it will die unless I keep my foot on the throttle. It will restart each time, very hard, but again, I have to keep my foot on the throttle or it just dies. I looked under the hood, nothing looked out of place. None of the plugs are blown out. I pulled codes and got p0171, p0156, p1131, p1151, p0174, p0136, and p1405. Any ideas???
What it does is, when the weather is fairly cold, it would chug a lot in idle but once you apply throttle it ran fine.
1. I replaced the tps, iat sensor, fuel filter, iac valve, cps, fuel pressure regulator, air filter, several vacuum lines, and ran sea foam in fuel plus in vacuum system. None of this fixed the problem.
Sea Foam, bad stuff. This will skew O2 readings, perhaps cause the sensor to completely fail. Time may not be able to fix. Sea Foam, = poison. In-the tank SF attacks plugs, leads to possible bridging. In the vac system, it attacks the O2's, - hard soak, then fail. Lean is actually rich here as the O2 loads up with this nasty stuff. Worst case, = hydroloc.
User post it also has an exhaust leak bank 1 (passenger side).
This should be fixed as it's skewing O2 readings.
Note:
User posts a starting problem at first after 5-10 seconds.
This was due to the fuel monitor clock. After 4 seconds, PCM shuts down the rail with no starts sits. This program protects the advanced coating on the converters, from ignition and blowing the brick apart.
2. User posts = I pulled codes and got p0171, p0156, p1131, p1151, p0174, p0136, and p1405.
Attention: 156/136 O2's are shot, harness problems or connectors.
For 1131/1151, you can look up 1132 for expanded definition of. However, - the O2's have been abused with chemical, they are shot IMO.
How does the engine run at first start up , when completely cooled down ?
98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28,520
Likes: 7,632
From: MI
Have you checked fuel pressure after doing all the sytem work?
Also, before dismantling things. If it will not idle, tap the side of the IAC with a large screw driver handle. Also, do the same with the EGR valve. Tap the EGR valve a little harder just below the saucer thing.
Start
Pull the green line from the top of the EGR valve while at idle. Any change ?
Suck test the EGR for valve operation. Disconnect the green line again at idle. Install a scrap piece of tubing in place of the green line on the valve. With the engine running, suck on the hose like your drinking a milkshake. Anything happen ?
Please post results of everything posted, - doing this in order.
Also, before dismantling things. If it will not idle, tap the side of the IAC with a large screw driver handle. Also, do the same with the EGR valve. Tap the EGR valve a little harder just below the saucer thing.
Start
Pull the green line from the top of the EGR valve while at idle. Any change ?
Suck test the EGR for valve operation. Disconnect the green line again at idle. Install a scrap piece of tubing in place of the green line on the valve. With the engine running, suck on the hose like your drinking a milkshake. Anything happen ?
Please post results of everything posted, - doing this in order.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2013
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Before I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, key on engine off, it would shoot to 40 then drop to almost 0 within seconds and key on engine on it bounced around a lot. But, after I replaced it, I tested again recently when it started having hard starts and it was doing fine. I'll try your other suggestions when I get a chance.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2013
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No change after disconnecting egr vacuum. I did the suck test (I sucked and blew before starting). Still revs to about 3000 on start up but will now idle at 500 with a "chugga chugga chugga" but did stay running on it's own. Ran horribly, but ran.
98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28,520
Likes: 7,632
From: MI
Wait EDIT: scratch that. I assumed you followed what I posted. I never said to do what you did. If you blew in it, chances are you compromised the diaphragm.
Well try it again, follow my direction tho okay ? Trying to help here, - so, you have to follow that as I explained, so we can move forward. ( :
Last edited by Jbrew; Feb 10, 2016 at 06:40 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2013
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I only lightly blew before starting. Light blow and light suck to listen for movement. While starting and running, I only sucked. If I didn't know what we were talking about, this all sounds very bad...lol