What are the system for front end components going out...i.e. my truck feels a little shudder or wheel hop in the front at low speeds under acceleration and sometimes at high speeds under acceleration. I usually don't drive the truck a whole lot but this week I put about 200 miles on it in 2 days. Roughly 125 of miles are interstate, that's when I notice it. I have a printed list of maintenance from the previous owner I'm getting tomorrow or this weekend. I hope that it's just a wheel unbalanced. However, at 220k miles it could be anything. It's really my play truck for running around town and projects, but I know I can get another 100k. It's in great shape for an 01 XLT 4x4. I know a lot of stuff was done at 180K but not sure exactly what yet, the upper controls are new as they were put on right before I bought it. Not sure about bearings, tie rods, or shocks. It's handles great and it is intermediate, visual inspection shows no obvious signs of excessive wear. I do need front brakes and in about 10k and I think the rotors needs turned. The rear driver wheel did throw a weight and that was fixed and tires rotated, so that's why I'm leaning towards unbalanced. Obviously I know no one can diagnose this without driving but I hope maybe the forum can throw insight on what to look for first. Thanks!

 

Well the hub assembly would roar if the bearings were bad. You said the UCA are new, so no worries with upper ball joints. Lower ball joints and tie rods would squeak. Sway bar links will make noise when the bushings are bad. You could always jack the front up grab the tires at 3 and 9 and try to wiggle for play to check the tie rod. 12 and 6 to check ball joints. But if its just a shudder or wheel hop, I'd almost bet its a wheel unbalanced. So your on the right track. Any front end noise goin over bumps or while turning?

 

No pops or squeaks over bumps

 

Im guessin wheels out of balance. I don't think you've got to much to worry about.

 

Inspect the front end and go from there. All it takes is a floor jack.

Jack the truck up raising both front tires off the ground. Put you hands on the front and back of the wheel and shift it. If it moves then it sould be Wheel Bearings, Tie Rods, Idler Arm or Pitman Arm. If no play then those are prolly good. Now put hands on top and bottom of wheel and shift. If there is play it could be the Wheel Bearing or Ball Joints. If it makes a noise like change hitting metal when hitting bumps then it would be the Shock Bushings or Sway Bar Bushings.

Wayne

 

Had a mechanic check it out, my idler and pitman arm are going bad. Said he would replace the lower control arm too. How are difficult are these to replace, I've done some stuff myself. Brakes, spark plugs, etc.. but never front end components except tie rods on a friends Jeep.

 

And lower ball joint

 

If you desire to, they are not bad but a little more in depth than brakes and a tie rod. Pitman and idler are a piece of cake. 30 minutes for them. Make sure you have a tie rod end puller for them but the process is very straight forward.

Is the control arm bad or only the ball joint? Rarely do the lower control arms go bad, my best advice would be to replace all 4 ball joints if you're going to tackle 1 as usually the others aren't far from failing. The uppers are only 2 extra bolts (you replace the whole control arm w/ ball joint).

Basically it's going to Be a half a day job for a first timer with out a lift. Watch some YouTube videos. If it's a 4x4, you don't need to remove the torsion bar like some say. Also not removing the tie rod saves one step is is not needed.

The shop would charge 800-1200 to do all 4 ball joints and idler/pitman arms. You and a buddy could do it for $200 in parts, alignment, sockets if you need em and your adult beverages of choice.

 

Forgot you don't drive the truck much. Ask how much play is I the lower control arm and ball joint. If not much, I wouldn't sorry about it. Then all you have is 30 minutes for the idler and pitman.

 

Thanks Tackle, I'm pretty sure the LCA is just ball joint. I'm not inclined to pay $800+ for someone to do it when I could with some help. My brother is pretty good at this stuff. I'll go back and ask the mechanic for specifics and give y'all an update.