You can push down on the front end and see if it bounces before it settles. But with that many miles I would change them regardless. I'm running Zone hydro's but there are several other guys on here with the other shocks listed. Also, go ahead and change out your sway bar links & tie rods while your in there. You'll have a nice new good riding truck.

 

Thanks! Dumb question...do I need two sway bar links or does most kits come with all you need?

 

Typical shocks should last 30-60k miles

My stockers @ 115k mi were totally blown. I compressed them by hand, laid them on the garage floor and they never rebounded.

Sensa-tracs are a solid low budget choice, if you want a nice soft ride, generally monotube style shocks like the monomatic or my kyb monomax are a stiff shock, 'nitrocharged' or gas shocks are a middle ground. Though this is a sweeping generalization, and it has more to do with valving.


There are a ton of shocks to choose from.

 

Thanks for the reply! I'll probably stay with the Sensa-trac since they are in budget and by condition what i'm looking for.

Here is my updated list...I hope to purchase in the next couple weeks as I plan to take a vacation to do the repairs.

dler Arm
QUICK STEER Part # K8739T Front; w/2.48" Bolt Pattern

Pitman Arm
QUICK STEER Part # K8700

Control Arm
DORMAN Part # 520215 {#5L3Z3085C, F75Z3085BA, WC110215, XL3Z3085BA} Complete Arm w/Ball Joint
Front Left Upper; 4WD; Includes Ball Joint and Bushings

DORMAN Part # 520216 {#5L3Z3084C, F75Z3084BA, WC110216, XL3Z3084BA} Complete Arm w/Ball Joint
Front Right Upper; 4WD; Includes Ball Joint and Bushings

Ball Joint
QUICK STEER Part # K8695T

I don't know if I need new shocks, I can't really tell nor know how to tell. However, I feel at 225K that if they haven't been replaced before now I should obviously do it. I don't know a lot about shocks, but I saw Monroe was popular among these trucks. Is there a real difference between Sensa-Trac and Monro-Matic?

MONROE Part # 37133 Sensa-Trac Light Truck
Front; 4WD

MONROE Part # 37134 Sensa-Trac Light Truck
Rear; 4WD; w/o 7,700lb GVW

Tie Rod End
QUICK STEER Part # ES3366T
Front Left Outer

QUICK STEER Part # ES3367T
Front Right Outer

QUICK STEER Part # ES3369T
Front Left Inner; 4WD

QUICK STEER Part # ES3370T
Front Right Inner; 4WD

Stabilizer Bar Link
QUICK STEER Part # K8772
Front; Heavy Duty Design

 

I think i've decided to go with Reflex Monotube rather the Sensa-Trac as a lot people said the Sensa-Trac drove soft. Plus, it's only $14 total more for the set.

 

Reflex monotubes for $14 more? well shoot thats a no brainer.

Sure they are monotubes? Looks like monroe also makes a reflex "truck" shock that appears to be twin tube? Check the p/n

 

Here is what RockAuto has listed, $35.79 a piece minus shipping.

Suspension : Shock Absorber

MONROE Part # 911521 Reflex Monotube
Rear; 4WD; For Performance - Mono-Tube; w/o 7,700lb GVW


MONROE Part # 911520 Reflex Monotube
Front; 4WD; For Performance - Mono-Tube; w/o 7,700lb GVW

 

That looks

 

Thanks for everyone's input so far, I got some work done on a couple more cosmetic issues this weekend and hope to post pictures up soon. I had a shop give me a quote on some different items, and of course Rock Auto beat them all. However, I'm a little weary of installing ball joints myself. From my understanding, a majority front-end rebuild involves the components I have listed...

Shocks
idler arm
pitman arm
UCA w/ ball joint
tie rod (inner/outer)
lower ball joint
sway link stabilizer

I've grazed over my Haynes manual, youtube, and the forum and most of those can be replaced with elbow grease and socket set. However, I think...if I can get the price right...i'll let them do the lower ball joint and the alignment afterwards.

Just feeling out everyone's opinion if my assumption is correct.

 

You've got a good plan going. Will ride much better. The lower ball joint...you can remove the lower control arm and take it to a shop to have it pressed in if you don't feel comfortable doing it. Nothing wrong with that. Measure your old tie rods from the end to the sleeve so you can get it aligned close enough to drive it to the alignment shop without chewing up your tires.