Okay, so I'm going to bring up this zombie thread. I've been driving the truck with the above problems for 2 months now with no major issues, however I'm beginning to get a "pop" now when turning...so I think it's time to begin replacing. I double checked the shop where the truck was inspected and lifted the truck to check myself. I believe I need new UCAs, lower and upper ball joint, pitman, and idler arms. Is it true that I need to replace both upper and lower ball joints if replacing the UCA? I'm also going to replace my front brakes, has anyone heard of Power Stop? RockAuto has a kit by them with 2 rotors and 4 pads shipped for $100.

 

No you don't need to replace low ball joints if you replace the UCA. The new UCA will come with a ball joint in it already.

Sometimes it's easier the other way around (if you are replacing the lower ball joints, might as well replace UCA's since you take them half off anyway).

The kit for pads/rotors should be fine. $100 is average.

 

Once again, thanks Tackle. I guess the shop was yanking my chain when they said I needed lower ball joints, even though my LCAs are fine.

 

But I have a similar question..

To replace the upper control arm (2005 F150 Lariat 2WD),you have to remove the strut tower, which requires that the tie rod be disconnected, in order to slip out the tower, right?

You also need to loose the sway bar ends to be able to lower the LCA, if you were just doing the shocks, but I guess the the UCA coming off that might not be necessary? Do you all use a pickle fork to pry the lower ballpoint from the rotor assembly, or some other method?

Again, sorry for butting in...

 

As for knocking the ball joint from the knuckle. A good wack from a 3lb hammer to the kunckle where the stud passes through is all that usually needed.

 

Haven't had a chance to get under truck here but when turning to the left I get a squeaking sound can really hear it in drive thrus and such. Would it be my tie rod is goin bad??? It only happens when turning left not right.

 

It could literally be any moving part. I cannot diagnose sound through the computer.

 

True. Thanks for trying help though. I just need to get my butt out there jack up the truck and take a look. Thanks again tackle.

 

What I would do is spray silicone or wd40 on 1 rubber piece at a time. Drive between each. See if it changes or goes away. You might get lucky and find it.

Sorry my other response was not helpful.

 

Whelp, i'm going to once again bring this thread back life. I've started to drive the truck a lot more often now and I'm going to bite the bullet and finally do this maintenance. Here's my current list of what parts i'm going to order from Rock Auto, I choose nothing but economy or standard quality since the truck has 225K and it's 14 years old. It tows a small boat here and there, goes camping a lot, and then the occasional dirt road during hunting season. It's starting to see the highway a little more often now too, so it's time...

Idler Arm
QUICK STEER Part # K8739T Front; w/2.48" Bolt Pattern

Pitman Arm
QUICK STEER Part # K8700

Control Arm
DORMAN Part # 520215 {#5L3Z3085C, F75Z3085BA, WC110215, XL3Z3085BA} Complete Arm w/Ball Joint
Front Left Upper; 4WD; Includes Ball Joint and Bushings

DORMAN Part # 520216 {#5L3Z3084C, F75Z3084BA, WC110216, XL3Z3084BA} Complete Arm w/Ball Joint
Front Right Upper; 4WD; Includes Ball Joint and Bushings

Ball Joint
QUICK STEER Part # K8695T

I don't know if I need new shocks, I can't really tell nor know how to tell. However, I feel at 225K that if they haven't been replaced before now I should obviously do it. I don't know a lot about shocks, but I saw Monroe was popular among these trucks. Is there a real difference between Sensa-Trac and Monro-Matic?

MONROE Part # 37133 Sensa-Trac Light Truck
Front; 4WD

MONROE Part # 37134 Sensa-Trac Light Truck
Rear; 4WD; w/o 7,700lb GVW