Hey guys, I'm stuck with this crazy brake problem... I have a 03' Scab Lariat 4x2 with 53K on her, I replaced the all the brake pads at 46k. The rear brakes on my truck get hot (especially the driver rear), I checked to make sure the e-brake wasn't dragging, good there, so I flushed the brake fluid, which I only did because it was about that time anyway. That's all the troubleshooting I've done so far. Before I go changing out rotors and calipers I came here for some advice. After driving for about 20-30 mins. and braking a few times, the brakes begin to drag and smell hot, to the point where when I put it in drive the truck wont roll unless I give it gas. Recently it has also started vibrating at higher speeds which makes me feel like I've got a warped rotor. But this only happens when the brakes are dragging. Once the brakes cool, I can hop in and drive like nothing ever happened! I've read about the hoses deteriorating, and the calipers getting stuck, but if the caliper was stuck it wouldn't let me drive away once it cools. Right??? btw The rotors are factory still, and probably need to be turned or replaced anyways they're 10 years old. Anyways that's my story. I would greatly appreciate any help.

 

i wish i could help you because mine did this Saturday. it was the front left. it got real hot and had allot of dust on the rim. it would only move if i pressed the gas pedal.
i let it cool and it was fine.
i am a little confused too
maybe someone can help us both

 

In my experience at the dealership I work at aftermarket pads heat up a lot and cause ridiculous heat and cause the rotors to warp and the caliper pins to seize I use aftermarket rotors from ICP and factory pads from ford I would definitely take those calipers apart before you seize a caliper

 

Does the 4x4 model have large calipers, pad's, and rotors than a 2x4? I have an 03 FX4 and have no issues with brakes at all(160k). I would assume if your truck has had a load behind it, your rotors could have heated to the point of malleability. Thus disforming the rotors from its natural shape making it rub on your calipers. Different pads have different efffects on the rotors themselves. Typically the high ceramic ones create less heat and friction making stopping alot more efficient with heavy loads and high speeds.

I would check my pads for abnormal wear and attempt to check the rotor movement by removing the caliper and trying to turn the rotor(by hand to check for side to side movement). You could always continue with the check and remove the rotor and check the wheel bearing. If you have any wobble in the rotor the cause could very well be a wheel bearing. A bad wheel bearing could cause all of the above problems by creating more friction on only one section of the rotor.

 

I'm not sure I am like 80 percent positive they are the same te only difference I know is that the 4x2 has a bearing that goes bad a lot a serviceable hub if you will

 

Could be the hose. I had a similar problem on one of my cars

 

Thanks guys. Is there a way to check the hose? Like once the brakes start dragging open the bleed screw and see if the brake releases?

 

X2, I've seen hoses collapse internally before

 

I will start with changing out both rear hoses. They are the cheapest part. I'll let you guys know what happens.

 

Wow changing these hoses is harder than I thought. The hoses are stuck to the steel lines. I'm gonna go buy the steel lines tomorrow . I will not quit!