I would have to disagree with you on the timing but I'm not 100% sure. The only way to know for sure, is to take the cover off, which is what I'm going to do tonight. Here is how I have counted the links, Let me know if I'm wrong. Thank you very much F150Torqued for your quick replies and for helping me out. Also thanks to everyone else for your help. I will post an update once I take the FC off and see where I f-up.

 

According to your GOOD photos and good graphics - it looks like it could be all right. That keyway being a little bit clockwise --- and wherever that "DOT" is - is the magic question. Hard to tell with that crank end sticking out covering stuff up. I hope I was wrong. The little graphic you superimposed there helps. Looks like the Dot and Keyway are several degrees 'angled'.


It just got a knot in my stomach the first time I counted. With the cover OFF - it'll be a breeze, and hopefully it will be just a matter of flipping that tone ring over.


Good luck with it.

 

Thanks man, it would be my 3rd time going in there .
First time I did the timing job on my old engine due to failed tensioners, which caused the guides to brake, oil pick-up tube was clogged and heads were done at that point.
Second time, i did the timing job on my new engine so I didn't have to go back in again, and now to flip the tone ring.

 

Bummer!


Check your PMs. Maybe it will help down the road.

 

I took it all a part and sure enough, it was installed the wrong way but the timing was OK. Flipped it, and put it all back together ( I was in the garage until 2AM lol) and I'm going to try to start it tonight.

 

Wow, you weren't just wistlin' Dixie . You were gettin' after it. I've been on pins and needles waiting to hear (_GOOD NEWS_). And except for the candle burning, it is very good news.


You know - in your good/sharp pictures, I notice (just learned) something else: That 'keyway' slot in that tone ring is almost aligned with the 'FIRST' tooth _following_ the 'missing tooth (with it turning clockwise). This missing tooth helps the PCM determine the absolute position of Cyl #1 on each revolution. By flipping it over, the missing tooth occurs a whole tooth "LATER" turning clockwise. With teeth at 10º increments (36 of them), that is delaying the PCM's CKP sensor signal by 10 whole crankshaft degrees - which is "05" camshaft degrees. The PCM uses those CKP pulses to determine spark advance and in conjunction with the CPS pulses from the Phaser fingers. Based on that it determines when to fire injectors while intake valves are open/opening.


I am amazed that the engine ran AT ALL - it is certainly understandable why it ran rough. EVERYTHING was screwed up.


There is an OBDII flag maintained by the PCM that I regret not suggesting taking a look at. It is called FICMSYNC, Fuel Injection Control Module Crank/Cam Sysc flag, PID# 09CD, bit Zero. It becomes true ("ON") when the PCM detects that the two are synchronized. Otherwise the PCM sets a FMEM (Failure Mode Engine Management) mode and defaults lots of settings trying to keep things going. I've monitored FICMSYNC on Torque Pro but have never observed it anything other than true on my truck. But now, in retrospect, I would bet we would have seen that flag FALSE on your truck!


Thank you very much for ADDING to all our knowledgebase. Just sorry you had to learn the way I have learned just about everything I know. I've learned so much from my mistakes - I think I'll just go make some more!


EDIT: Had cam/crank ratio backwards in my mind. Would be only 5 camshaft degrees. Maybe I can see how it could run - but it doesn't take much to make one idle rough. That does explain why there was no P0012 or P0022. Theory manual says those DTCs are triggered if cams are > 5 degrees out.

 

Just like my grandpa used to say , if you didn't made mistakes, you haven't learned anything but its better to watch others and learn on their mistakes. We live and we learn something every day.
If you haven't mentioned the crank, I would off been still looking at what the hell was wrong. I want to thank for helping me out.

Are you by any chance one of the Torque developers? You seems to know a lot about OBDII and the way ECU/PCM works.

 

There is the value of the Forum. Hope our efforts truly did make it go better/faster. Speaking for all - that's our pleasure.


NO, I'm not one of the Torque Pro developers. (probably invested enough effort to be though). Sorta' like sex and everything else, learned it all out behind the barn by trial and error and a super inquisitive mind.


Actually, my career helped a lot. I developed several 'process control' (direct feedback closed loop type) systems for the Petroleum Industry and have written literally thousands and thousands of lines of process control code in several, low level languages. I faced lots of the challenges the ECU programmers probably have. Then I got Torque Pro couple of years ago and quickly recognized its power and its programmers genius and initiative user interface. Have spent enormous amounts of time with it digging, hacking, spelunking for OBDII parameters applicable to the Triton system. It's just my curious nature.

 

Hard to see stamped front down in there.
I was afraid that I would put it on back wards during my rebuild so I wrote front in big black letters . I now see another way, the drilled hole nearest the center should be around 3 o'clock from key way . If backwards it will be at 9 o'clock . I was puzzled at the purpose of these holes, still am .
Great pictures they served you well.
Thanks to the guy who posted here a long time ago that his problem was the reversed tone ring . He saved a lot of us .
Now to see this engine purr.

 

Well, I have put everything back together and engine starts just fine but, when idle it does jerks once every 3 seconds and when I try to drive it, it has absolutely no power, it fills like a multi-cylinder misfire and I had to drive for a long time to get a code and if I clear it, it would not come back for a long time but the engine is clearly runs like poop. I had my body siting next to me while I was driving and look at the scan tool and it looked like bank 1 short (or maybe long, I dont remember now) term fuel trim was slightly behind bank 2 to respond to acceleration, SFT1 was a lot higher then SFT2.
The code that I got is P1071 (and p2006 which I think is not related). I did a lot of research and everyone keep saying its a vacuum leak but I don't think it is simply cuz it's only effecting bank 1. I'm including link to my freezy frame pdf file. This freezy frame is actually from different ECU (from the donor truck). I tried swapping it and there was no change in performance. I'm running out of ideas, anyone have any idea what is wrong with this thing?!

What is the normal fuel rail pressure?

Things I've tried already:

• Airflow sensor swap
• Checked all of the vacuum hoses
• checked all of the coil/injector connectors ( if it was coil, I would off got a code)
• Swapped ECU/PCM