Pulling to left when braking, changed both calipers ??
Ok, my front passenger side caliper froze up on me earlier this week so I changed it. In the process I decided to change the driver side caliper as well.
After replacing both front calipers it is pulling to the left, when I apply the brakes hard.
So I replaced the passenger side soft break hose, because it was pulling left. As well as sanded down the pads and rotor to make sure there was no glaze on them.
Still pulling to the left when applying heavy pressure to the breaks.
I bled both front calipers after installation very throughly. I have a rock hard peddle on the second pump when my truck is off.
Still don’t know why it is pulling to the left, with all the new hardware. Any ideas?
Also, new brakes and rotors less than 5000 miles ago.
Thanks
After replacing both front calipers it is pulling to the left, when I apply the brakes hard.
So I replaced the passenger side soft break hose, because it was pulling left. As well as sanded down the pads and rotor to make sure there was no glaze on them.
Still pulling to the left when applying heavy pressure to the breaks.
I bled both front calipers after installation very throughly. I have a rock hard peddle on the second pump when my truck is off.
Still don’t know why it is pulling to the left, with all the new hardware. Any ideas?
Also, new brakes and rotors less than 5000 miles ago.
Thanks
There could be several causes of this, but the most likely cause when you have a pull is either a contaminated rotor surface or pads, causing it to pull to the good side. You could file down your pads and clean your rotors with brake cleaner(you can use alcohol too, but brake cleaner is better). If you suspect pad contamination, don't even try to clean it/them. Just replace it/them with new ones. For starters I'd check the opposite side it's pulling to. I know you said you sanded everything down, but you didn't say whether you cleaned everything or not, AND filing(the PADS) does a better job than sanding. Also, it's a REALLY good idea to have your rotors turned whenever you replace pads.
While you have the pads out I'd inspect the pistons and area surrounding them for dirt/debris causing one or more piston to stick in its' bore, and also look for leaks.
I can't remember what you said about pedal feel(if you mentioned it), but it wouldn't hurt to re-bleed 'em, and even flush the system with new fluid(from an UN-opened container) as well. Considering you replaced one or both of the calipers, air stuck in one of the calipers could be the problem
Worn suspension components or an alignment problem can cause it to pull to one side as well, but especially with an alignment problem, you'll usually pull to one side all the time.
And in the spirit of 'did you check your fuel level', you ARE running the same size tires on both sides, yes?
How about your pressures.. are they the same?
A couple of dumb questions, I know. But we've all done stupid **** before, and sometimes when you're face deep in it, it's hard to see the forest through the trees
While you have the pads out I'd inspect the pistons and area surrounding them for dirt/debris causing one or more piston to stick in its' bore, and also look for leaks.
I can't remember what you said about pedal feel(if you mentioned it), but it wouldn't hurt to re-bleed 'em, and even flush the system with new fluid(from an UN-opened container) as well. Considering you replaced one or both of the calipers, air stuck in one of the calipers could be the problem
Worn suspension components or an alignment problem can cause it to pull to one side as well, but especially with an alignment problem, you'll usually pull to one side all the time.
And in the spirit of 'did you check your fuel level', you ARE running the same size tires on both sides, yes?
How about your pressures.. are they the same?
A couple of dumb questions, I know. But we've all done stupid **** before, and sometimes when you're face deep in it, it's hard to see the forest through the trees
Last edited by yokev; Apr 25, 2019 at 04:20 AM.
Yokev, what would cause break contamination ? If it was break contamination, I could switch the left pads with the right pads and it would pull to the right.
Correct ?
I cleaned the rotors and break pads with brake cleaner (3 cans) before I was done, and applied grease to all the pins, pad ears, back of the pads, caliper, and the additional metal inserts that hold the pads in place.
can you turn drilled and slotted rotors ? Thinking not.
Calipers and pistons are good, both bran new.
Pedal is rock solid after one pump when the truck is off.
With the abs system in a 2006 is there a fancy way of bleeding the brakes. I did the entire system, starting with furthest caliper and working my way forward.
Just installed new tie rods, stab links , new tires, and an alignment within the last few months.
thanks for your reply
Correct ?
I cleaned the rotors and break pads with brake cleaner (3 cans) before I was done, and applied grease to all the pins, pad ears, back of the pads, caliper, and the additional metal inserts that hold the pads in place.
can you turn drilled and slotted rotors ? Thinking not.
Calipers and pistons are good, both bran new.
Pedal is rock solid after one pump when the truck is off.
With the abs system in a 2006 is there a fancy way of bleeding the brakes. I did the entire system, starting with furthest caliper and working my way forward.
Just installed new tie rods, stab links , new tires, and an alignment within the last few months.
thanks for your reply
It started when my right caliper froze up on me. Drive it home about 10 miles and it was locking up and unlocking on me the entire time.
Replaced the right caliper, cleaned everything up and re greased it.
Without doing anything else when I brake hard now it’s pulling to the left.
Thinking it’s the driver side caliper, I change that one. Still pulling to the left.
Now thinking I got a bad caliper from auto zone I replace the passenger side with a different caliper again. Still pulling to the left.
thinking it may be the passenger side break hose I replace that. Still pulling.
blead the entire system, and finally gave up. Still pulling after that.
Replaced the right caliper, cleaned everything up and re greased it.
Without doing anything else when I brake hard now it’s pulling to the left.
Thinking it’s the driver side caliper, I change that one. Still pulling to the left.
Now thinking I got a bad caliper from auto zone I replace the passenger side with a different caliper again. Still pulling to the left.
thinking it may be the passenger side break hose I replace that. Still pulling.
blead the entire system, and finally gave up. Still pulling after that.
Last edited by Batmanbynight; Apr 25, 2019 at 04:52 AM.
Can you spin it and look for warped over heated rotor . 2wd drive bad bearing ? Overheat causes grease to boil out 2wd . Check control arm bushings sawy bar bushings ,ball joints .
It started when my right caliper froze up on me. Drive it home about 10 miles and it was locking up and unlocking on me the entire time.
Replaced the right caliper, cleaned everything up and re greased it.
Without doing anything else when I brake hard now it’s pulling to the left.
Thinking it’s the driver side caliper, I change that one. Still pulling to the left.
Now thinking I got a bad caliper from auto zone I replace the passenger side with a different caliper again. Still pulling to the left.
thinking it may be the passenger side break hose I replace that. Still pulling.
blead the entire system, and finally gave up. Still pulling after that.
Replaced the right caliper, cleaned everything up and re greased it.
Without doing anything else when I brake hard now it’s pulling to the left.
Thinking it’s the driver side caliper, I change that one. Still pulling to the left.
Now thinking I got a bad caliper from auto zone I replace the passenger side with a different caliper again. Still pulling to the left.
thinking it may be the passenger side break hose I replace that. Still pulling.
blead the entire system, and finally gave up. Still pulling after that.
You didn't mention that in your first post.
I'm personally not a fan at all of re-man'd parts. It's hit or miss whether they'll even work right outta the box, let alone miles down the road.
Who's hose did you get? Another Auto Zone part? If so, you sure it's got the same flow rate as the OE hose on the other side ?
If it were me, I'd make sure ALL parts on both sides match, and are OE pieces
Trending Topics
Yes, re-man'd calipers and non-stock rotors.
So in thinking it may of been a bad caliper from the store on the passenger side, I went and got another one (lifetime warranty on the calipers). Still having same issue. I do agree with you, if I had to do this all over again I should of gone with OEM parts.
Yes, I went and got a auto zone hose. I will be checking the flow rate today.
So in thinking it may of been a bad caliper from the store on the passenger side, I went and got another one (lifetime warranty on the calipers). Still having same issue. I do agree with you, if I had to do this all over again I should of gone with OEM parts.
Yes, I went and got a auto zone hose. I will be checking the flow rate today.
Wait, you bought re-man'd calipers, and you're using non-stock rotors?
You didn't mention that in your first post.
I'm personally not a fan at all of re-man'd parts. It's hit or miss whether they'll even work right outta the box, let alone miles down the road.
Who's hose did you get? Another Auto Zone part? If so, you sure it's got the same flow rate as the OE hose on the other side ?
If it were me, I'd make sure ALL parts on both sides match, and are OE pieces
You didn't mention that in your first post.
I'm personally not a fan at all of re-man'd parts. It's hit or miss whether they'll even work right outta the box, let alone miles down the road.
Who's hose did you get? Another Auto Zone part? If so, you sure it's got the same flow rate as the OE hose on the other side ?
If it were me, I'd make sure ALL parts on both sides match, and are OE pieces






