Power windows stopped working. Need help!!!
I have a 2004 F150 extra cab and all 4 power windows stopped working at the same time and the fuse is still good. When I push the switches to any window the mirror heater button on the panel will flicker on and off. when the door is open and I try the switches the lights dim and the door ajar dings. I changed all 4 switches with a friends truck with no success. Any help would be great. Thanks
Last edited by runner_0; Oct 17, 2010 at 07:49 PM.
Grounded out the window lockout switch to determine that it was a bad ground. Then when the windows functioned properly I traced the black ground wire were it goes into the truck and found it broken in the rubber boot. repaired the broken wire and everything works perfect.
This post helped out, I recently had the exact same problem. Not too hard of a fix. All my windows stopped working, and when I hit the switch for the windows, power was being drawn and the window defroster light would come on. To fix it, you need some:
10 gauge wire
a couple 16-14 heavy duty wire connectors
electrical pliers
electrical tape
Check the boot in the driver door jam for the wires, and most likely the ground wire has been cut. After I re attached the wire, everything worked fine.
10 gauge wire
a couple 16-14 heavy duty wire connectors
electrical pliers
electrical tape
Check the boot in the driver door jam for the wires, and most likely the ground wire has been cut. After I re attached the wire, everything worked fine.
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I would be checking for bear wires or ground wire issue if you experience lights flickering or power being pulled down when trying to operate an electrical devise. Not always easy to find.
I have a 2005 f150 and had the same problem. Found the broken ground wire in the driver door boot and spliced in a new piece of #10 black wire and now everything is good. Thanks to all on this site for sharing their problems and solutions. The strange thing was that I had good voltage at the master window switch and downstream of the switch to the black wire on the switch. Continuity from black wire to A-post was good so current must have been flowing back through the hinge - just not enough to bump the regulator motor.
There must be a splice in the door that connects the small ground to the larger ground that is fed through the door. If it happens again, I'll run a new ground from door to frame. Anyway the wire size and flexibility seems to be the root cause. #10 stranded wire will crimp fairly easily so leave some slack in the splice before putting it back through the boot. Thanks to all for the help.
There must be a splice in the door that connects the small ground to the larger ground that is fed through the door. If it happens again, I'll run a new ground from door to frame. Anyway the wire size and flexibility seems to be the root cause. #10 stranded wire will crimp fairly easily so leave some slack in the splice before putting it back through the boot. Thanks to all for the help.





