So I'm having some trouble with acceleration and such, many things happening with my vehicle. BUUUUUT, what I'd like is a basic understanding of the Fuel Pump Drive Module. I understand that it tells the fuel pump what and when to do (i think). I also know that the placement of the part makes them susceptible to corrosion, road gunk, etc.

Do they fail all at once and simply not function? Do they fail incrementally and limp along? Just trying to get a better understanding of whether it's worth putting a new one on to improve acceleration, outcomes, etc.

Thanks!

 

It all depends on how badly corroded the back casting is... could have a pin hole or the whole backside could be exposed. It will do all kinds of weird stuff.. best thing to do is pull it down and inspect it, it's just 2 bolts and a plug. Located above the spare tire bolted to the frame rail. I pulled mine down cleaned and painted everything and added stand offs to it, like what the new replacements come with.

 

^ What Techrep said.
I pulled mine off and the back looked pretty corroded so I replaced it before it could fail. It's worth inspecting if you haven't yet. I've heard of them just going out all at once with no warning.

 

Doubtful that your accel problems caused by fpdm . Cats ,plugs/boots ,injectors more likely . But water and corrosion in fpdm gets really weird . Take torque pro and look at your 02 ,fuel trims ,cat temps -- I see you did a timing job and you are at 224k ' Your fuel rail sensor is vacuum assisted to help sometimes the diaphragm ruptures causing a rich problem . A vacuum leak usually causes trouble at the low end .. A smoke test is best for a vac leak , I built a homemade one off youtube it found the problem within minutes .
Clean your maf and throttle body and air leaks in cool air bypassing maf . .
Torque pro app $5 /android phone and cheap bluetooth reader off amazon .That gives you an amazing amount of info .

 

I wonder if you could use flex seal and just seal the new one and end future problems

 

It would corrode under the flex seal. The corrosion has nothing to do with exposure and everything to do with electrolysis. Find a company to make the case entirely out of plastic if you want a permanent solution.

 

But then you would probably have problems with it melting due to the heat from the FPDM internals. The metal is there as a heat sink, and I believe Ford was using the frame to wick the heat away from the metallic side of the FPDM without someone thinking about galvanic corrosion.

 

Here's some light reading for everyone. I needed a refresher and thought I'd share. https://www.nace.org/resources/gener...anic-corrosion

 

Doubtful. There isn’t any more heat emanating from the FPDM than a laptop computer or the engine compartment, and look how much plastic is under there. No engineer worth a salt was thinking minor heat sink and ignoring basic junior high school chemistry. Rubber standoffs belie the heat wicking to steel idea, as does plastic cover; standoffs would actually aid any heat wicking. Aluminum finned case would do better for cooling that flat surface tucked against steel (I’ll have to look up specific heats tomorrow for better info), like the PCM. Good hypothesis though. The FPDM resembles more of a zinc material than aluminum, which if the case makes it even more consumable (but cheap).

 

Same reason we use zinc bricks attached to the hulls of our ships, why there are zinc pencils in the water pumps (with brass impellers), and why the old joke is if you want to sink an aluminum ship, just throw some copper pennies in the bilge. Where I work, even stainless steel rusts to hell in a few years. And, why the stand offs ultimately will not preserve the FPDM, as it is still connected in circuit to the frame by steel bolts. Any stray voltage in it certainly doesn’t help.