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"New Reman Motor - Power Souce out of Memphis TN I went with them based off user reviews and the BBB reviews and rating. My Mechanic was very impressed with the engine and company.
F Series truck, Expedition. Three valve heads. Includes timing cover, oil pan and valve covers installed. Built with NEW OEM cam phasers 3149 Free Shipping both Ways
3 yr 100,000 mile warranty.
Extras I added for peace of mind
New AC Condenser recommended by mechanic
New water pump
New Belts, hoses etc.
Out the door parts (3149.00 Engine) and labor of 1700 and about 400 in extra parts for 5462.00"
Best to set the timing points up before pulling chains then its best to pull cams remove bolts in sequence keeping all parts marked . All parts must go back exactly where they came out'and in the same orientation.
This is a interference engine ,meaning if you rotate crankshaft without being locked in close to timing it can bend valves or poke hole in pistons.Same with cams . But if you pull them no valves are down ,you can then turn crank all you want .Chains will lock cams and crank to proper timing if done correctly .
Crank gear is keyed when key is at 11 oclock= timing dot on gear is at six oclock then you face cams per book on cly 1 and 5 then put chains on properly as per book . Cams are torqued down slowly in same per book sequence around 8 foot pounds.
Check condition of cams and heads before timing job ,this is not a cheap job but its worth doing . I can't imagine buying another truck worth anything for $1500 or so .
So.. my dad has agreed that he wants to replace the timing components on it... before he invests the money, he wants to make sure there's no chance it can be an electrical issue or something else unrelated that is throwing the code. Also, we are not sure how feasible it is that the cams and all other accessories be removed. We are NOT mechanics, and don't have all the intricate details and knowledge to make sure all of that stuff goes back together right. With that being said, we will have to find another way to ensure the timing is lined up correctly before the chains are removed. This will be nearly impossible if the chain has jumped even one tooth though without disassembling the whole thing.
Its not all that, its mostly uncomfortable 10 to 16 hours to get it uncovered and done. We have talked lots of pure amateurs thru it ,After you do it you will say it was simple . There's no magic to pulling cams as long as you are careful .
There is so much help here its not a hard job , you are smart and learn it as you go its very fulfilling .You don't need many special expensive tools most can be had from auto zone lend program . There's work around on almost everything .
You set the engine up as per these diagrams before you take chains off ,this is the timing points as long as you don't turn stuff after chains off it will go right back together the chains and marks will pull it back in perfectly, you have slop to get chains on as long as the crank stays at six oclock dot and cams are facing the correct way it will come together The cam phasor moves with oil pressure during running so you know you have more than a few degrees of slop to play with .Its not that hard its just new to you . You can put your own guide marks on to help just don't put them on bearing surfaces . No 1 cyl is p[passenger front, no 5 is drivers front .
Read the final fix sticky several times understand the engine a little and ask questions . You need to realize there are several ways of doing this , I prefer pulling cams and fixing all lashs and rollers- cleaning heads good . I don't like that expensive valve tool ,pulling cams is so much easier . Plus yopu have to pull cams to get lashs out . You will need a torque wrench big deal . And I do like the toothed phasor holding tool it makes it easier .
Any willing normal person can do this, don't get in a rush .
You set the engine up as per these diagrams before you take chains off ,this is the timing points as long as you don't turn stuff after chains off it will go right back together the chains and marks will pull it back in perfectly, you have slop to get chains on as long as the crank stays at six oclock dot and cams are facing the correct way it will come together The cam phasor moves with oil pressure during running so you know you have more than a few degrees of slop to play with .Its not that hard its just new to you . You can put your own guide marks on to help just don't put them on bearing surfaces . No 1 cyl is p[passenger front, no 5 is drivers front .
Read the final fix sticky several times understand the engine a little and ask questions . You need to realize there are several ways of doing this , I prefer pulling cams and fixing all lashs and rollers- cleaning heads good . I don't like that expensive valve tool ,pulling cams is so much easier . Plus yopu have to pull cams to get lashs out . You will need a torque wrench big deal . And I do like the toothed phasor holding tool it makes it easier .
Any willing normal person can do this, don't get in a rush .
i guess what I'm confused about is if the timing is already off, the marks will never line back up again as long as the system is together, and in that case I can't remove the cams because the marks aren't aligned. I'm pretty sure if the timing is off, the marks aren't going to line up at all on it. My question was how do I line them back up correctly? I had assumed you could remove the cams and spin the crank to tdc, then reposition the cams in the correct order but the guide says you have to do it while it's all together.
If you neutralize the cams before removing anything, THEN remove the cams then you'll be able to spin them wherever you want and then align the marks so long as the cam lobes are facing the right way when you go to align them.
If you neutralize the cams before removing anything, THEN remove the cams then you'll be able to spin them wherever you want and then align the marks so long as the cam lobes are facing the right way when you go to align them.
Okay, how does one do that? Neutralize the cams, that is.
When you've set the cams to the correct position as shown in the above diagram, remove:
-Exhaust roller follower from cylinder 1
-Both intake roller followers from cylinder 4
-Both intake roller followers from cylinder 5
-Exhaust roller follower from cylinder 8
Then rotate the crankshaft clockwise until its keyway is at the 6 'oclock postion. Now the cam lobes aren't pressing onto any valves because you've removed the followers that would otherwise put a valve into the cylinder.
When you've set the cams to the correct position as shown in the above diagram, remove:
-Exhaust roller follower from cylinder 1
-Both intake roller followers from cylinder 4
-Both intake roller followers from cylinder 5
-Exhaust roller follower from cylinder 8
Then rotate the crankshaft clockwise until its keyway is at the 6 'oclock postion. Now the cam lobes aren't pressing onto any valves because you've removed the followers that would otherwise put a valve into the cylinder.
After going back and rereading everything, I'm making it in harder than it is. I was assuming the timing is off, and if so way off. That can't be be so because if it was the motor would already be no good as a valve or piston would be through the motor.
I'm going to take the cover off and turn the crank until the timing marks are in the position detailed in the very first pictures on this thread. I may see the chain is off a few teeth but it shouldn't be off by a substanial enough amount to be anything major.
With that I should be able to disassemble and reassemble with the new parts.
12-23-2017, 11:24 AM
