hey I'm about to dive into this exact job myself, check out this guy on Youtube this will be invaluable.

https://www.youtube.com/user/FordTec...ery=5.4+timing

I've done my research as well, so far I've got the engine pulled to replace manifolds as well and do plugs. Figured easier to get the engine out and do all the hard stuff all at once! I've never done anything like this either. good luck! I'll be following along

 

Along with the information provided in this forum, and the videos that were linked, this job is extremely easy in watching it actually done. Today I was able to get the entire front end components removed from the timing cover, I got the driver side valve cover off, and started working on the passenger side. I ran into trouble reaching the bolts though for the valve cover, and ran out of daylight so I have to wait until tomorrow. I am going to have to remove the transmission dipstick and the upper a/c hose to get to the rest. (Another person suggested lowering the engine after removing the mounts, but since the a/c needs serviced anyway I think it'll be easier to just remove the line and refill with a/c after we put it back together. The harness on that side is really difficult to clear out of the way. The remaining plug that I am struggling with is the one that attached to the side of the oil pan, and is I am assuming the oil level sensor. Once I get that clear, I can pull the harness up through the top and out of the way.

The driver side chain was extremely sloppy. So much so that I could pull it off of the cam sprocket completely. A sure sign that the components need replaced.

One question I had was: If the camshaft is being removed anyway, and all of the load on the valves will be removed when this happens, is it really necessary to first remove the 3 rollers from each side? If I loosen the caps slowly to relieve the pressure from the compressed valves, doesn't that avoid me having to use a special tool to remove the rollers while the cam is still on?

 

Just set crank dot to six oclock and install cams with lobes facing the correct direction s on 1 and 5.
Keep all cam parts labeled and reinstalled exactly how they came out. There is a sequence to slowly remove and install bolts on cam . Basically it is from the center out.Torque is basically 8 foot pounds . Be very gentle with cams ,clean all lash wells .hand oil all parts going back in . usually its best to replace all rollers and lashs , hand prime all lashs and soak overnite.Lashs are difficult to test so its best to replace. Lashs work very hard,a set of lashs and rollers run about $265 from oem select ebay.

With cams removed no valves are down so no piston to valve contact possible.

 

Okay.. sorry to be a bother guys, just want to make sure I don't damage anything. I am at the last stretch. I have access to all the timing components, and my new ones came in. Now, am I doing this next step right? (Want to make sure before I do it)

Set the timing so that the crank gear has the dot at 6 o'clock, but ALSO make sure that cam lobe 1 is pointed at the 11 o'clock position, and that cam 5 is pointed at the 1 o'clock position.

Once the three things above are done, remove the timing chains, tensioners and guides, than slowly loosen the cam tower bolts starting from the center and working your way out to slowly release the pressure on the valves, until the cam towers can come off and the cams can come out.

Once both cams are out, DO NOT turn the crank at all. When re-installing the cams, position the phasers in the correct orientation, with the timing marks on the chains lined up with the timing marks on the phasers, put the cams back in position and slowly bolt down the cam tower covers starting from inside and moving outside until it's at 8 foot pounds of torque. After that, put on the tensioners, guides and hold-downs, then put it all back together.

Is this the correct process?

 

The key is the cam lobes facing in right direction . You have to pay attn to picture of correct direction of cams . You realize there are three lobes . Two for intakes one for exhaust . Pay attn to factory picture . The intakes are the key lobes .I am not at my desk top so I don't have those pictures here.
I have to back up and admit that once the cams are out you can turn the crank all you wish . All valves are up just put it back to sic o'clock gear dot before you start timing .Cam lobes facing in right direction will roughly put it near timing point. Chain with proper links in position will bring in exactly on time.
Since you had such loose chains you have to know more than a guy just putting new chains and stuff on . Sometimes I will tell them not to move it since they may not pull cams .
A lot of the engine noise is caused by bad lashs and rollers so if you don't do them you may be back . Sorry if I confused the issue.

 

Yeah, I was thinking that the crank has two revolutions for a full range of motion, but that's the cams. Every time the crank is at 6 o'clock the pistons are always in the exact same orientation. (I was thinking that one full turn put the pistons opposite, and rotating again brought them back to where they needed to be) I realize now, that that only applies to the cams. (One full turn of crank turns cams 1/2 turn). It's good to know once the crank is centered on 6 o'clock that you can move it. We don't plan to, but it's nice to know we can't do any damage if we do.

The plan is to make sure crank is at 6 o'clock with the cam lobes in the right orientation, remove the chain and components, remove the cams, then reattach the new phasers to the cams, re-install them with the lobes in the general orientation, then get it dead on by putting the chain on in the proper alignment.

 

Are you going to neutralize the cams first by removing the correct roller followers? Otherwise you run the risk of the cam flopping over with the chain off and you eff up the timing

 

As long as the crank stays at 6 while removing cams nothing is going to go amiss while pulling cams . They can move quite a bit if they needed to after all they do that during operation from the vcts from the hydraulic oil circuit controlling phasors .
That tool is a expensive gangly unnecessary tool . I like to use the toothed tool to remove the phasors and reinstall since you have to do it 4 times. I remove phasors before removing cams ,it helps you be gentle with the cams . I don't like using vise grips on cams to hold them .
I like the fact that you have figured out the ratio of the crank to the cams . It means you are getting a good understanding of this 4 stroke engine.Use care when reinstalling phasors on cam ,line up pins and make sure it seats correctly ,look at mating surfaces on rear.
The toothed tool gives you good holding power for the two step bolt torque . Don't worry about using cam bolt to help fight valve spring pressure to line up chains as long as lobes near picture orientation there is quite a bit of leeway to move phasors/cams to line up. I recommend two people at this point as it makes it it easier ,one on the bolt wrench the other handling chain .
The compression valve tool is for people who don't address the lashs/roller replacement and cam clean up.Sorry to those who like the valve tool it just isn't for me .No offense intended .

 

they come out .
They are custom fitted and wear pattern is important mark them and keep them laid out in order .Use only oem phasors others mostly junk . You see how hard it is going back in .
On reassembly remark your tone ring front in big letters, it is common to put this on backwards . Also plug in crank position sensor before you mount timing cover.
I blue lock tight all bolts inside timing cover except cam phasor bolts . Phasor bolts are one time use ,threads are stretched with a two step torque procedure same as crank bolt.If pulley not correct it can cause misalignment belt throwing.
I like to start old crank bolt without washer to get pulley started on then put new bolt and washer in for final torque . Make sure you use rtv on keyway on crank seal .

 

Well, I got it stripped down to all but the balancer, and cannot get It off. I rented the balancer puller tool from AutoZone, the one with the y shape and three bolts. First one snapped in half, the second one every bolt in the package had it's threads completely sheered off. They are now just a metal shaft with a head on it.

Yes, I removed the center bolt, I just can't get balancer off. I've sprayed penetrating oil on it and let it sit for 2 days and still no luck.

Any advice?

This is the tool that's broken twice now.

Stupid me..

Apparently it had two washers in it. I took the first onemkff with the bolt but there was another one still on it so the tool was pushing on the washer while it was pulling.

Took the washer off, balancer came right off. Jeeze Louise.